Big Hauler #90102 .. what drive to replace ?

[smcgill]

What drive should I get to update this engine.
Would this replace the battery / remote setup that came with the unit ?

[Loco Bill Canelos]

Hi.

I would not recommend trying this as there are too many differences in the the way the loco bodies are manufactured.  I don't know of anyone who has tried this project.  To answer your question, if you are able to do it the locomotive would become electrically powered and you would need to get a transformer to attach to the track to make it work.  The other problem is you must have metal track as the plastic track that came with those locomotives is useless.

The other problem I can think of right now, and there will be more, is that the R/C loco you have has a pretty large battery compartment and you may have to cut out the lower part of it to clear the gear box on the new drive.  There are many other problems of fit as well.  The smoke box front on your loco does not have the opening for the smoke switch, among other things.  I am also not sure how the old tender will attach to a new chassis.

Truth be told I no longer have one of those old R/C locos to look at in order to give better advice.  You might be better off selling it on Ebay, the plastic track, and the R?C controller seem to be in demand.

This is a nice chassis and it $40 right now.
https://estore.bachmanntrains.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=69_671_669&products_id=4093&zenid=po90q9kpfl6hc0h02hq86sq7p7

The complete loco bodies are on sale right now as well and for only $49:
https://estore.bachmanntrains.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=69_671_669&products_id=5223&zenid=po90q9kpfl6hc0h02hq86sq7p7

Again I could not recommend it.  If you do try it please report back here on how it worked out

Bill

[smcgill]

I have an operating layout track powered etc.. Two TE run the two loops..
This engine just sits  in it's box. not being used.. So I thought ....
Hmm for $100+/- I could have a new engine .. Just a thought..

[Loco Bill Canelos]

True enough!  And you might even put out less if you sell the R/C loco, the track, and the controller separately on Ebay

[smcgill]

Hard to sell gifts..

[A Trainman]

I put an Annie chassis under the Gen. 1 Big Hauler that I purchased at a second hand shop for twenty bucks.

Below is copied from a post that I posted on Large Scale Central.

All the Annie chassis will fit under all of your boilers. The only modifications you'll need to do is to relocate the air tanks rearward on the floorboards about 3/8" otherwise the steamchest will hit the air tank.  After you've removed the floorboard / air tank assembly, you'll see two screws that hold the air tank together and to the floorboard. Remove the screws, use the inside tank half and locate the rear hole in it to be just on the edge of the mount. File a small notch where the rear screw will go and use a small drill bit to mark where to drill a new hole, in the mount, where the front screw will go. You'll also have to lengthen the notch at the front of the air tank where the mount goes through. Do one side at a time so you don't get things mixed up. When done correctly, the front of the air tank should be in line with the boiler strap when all is reassembled.  I've put these Annie chassis under all of my six Big Haulers, you'll be happy you did. You might want to buy the proper pilot braces and screws. But if not, you can either use the Big Hauler pilot and braces or you can use the new Annie pilot and drill a hole, the same size as the old brace, directly between the two small screw holes where the Annie braces would mount. I've done it all these different ways but eventually used all Annie pilots and braces. Much better detail.   Hope this answers your question.   

The only thing I've noticed is the Gen.1 plastic is very brittle and can break easily. And the Gen.1 boiler body is a lot more difficult to remove then any of the following generations. 

Adam