How to remove trucks from older F9A Amtrak

[Airjockey]

I'm new to the Bach-Man boards, but I could use some help.  I have an Older F9A (or maybe an F7A) Amtrak loco and am trying to convert it to MT couplers.  MT pack 1115 is for the older style unit with metal draft gear boxes (it fits).  The instructions match my loco, but the new coupler has to be installed from the top of the truck per the MT drawings showing the draft gear box.  I have tried everything I can, but cannot determine how to get the truck, or some portion of it, off of the locomotive. ny help would be appreciated.

As an aside, I don't know where I got the loco, but I have had it for many years.  It kind of matches a description saw on a posting.  It is heavy, runs well, and pulls like a horse - albeit a little noisy.  There are no traction bands on the wheels.  The loco body is not the split body that my ATSF F7 have in them, but is a one piece body, with removable top to get at the gear train.

[Airjockey]

Sorry for a mistake here.  This is not the loco with the metal draft box.  This one has a plastic box that apparently requires the 1129 universal conversion kit.  this is ont material to the problem, but I should provide accurate information.  Thanks. 

[spookshow]

It's hard to answer not knowing what model (or what version of what model) you have. Bachmann has been making F7's an F9's for decades, and they've changed quite a bit over the years.

Take a look here and see if you can narrow things down for us -

http://www.spookshow.net/loco/bachf7.html

http://www.spookshow.net/loco/bachf9a.html

-Mark

[Airjockey]

Right on target Spookman.  The model I have is the the F9a 1971 model. 

"The next version emerged circa 1971. It came with a smaller shell and a black-metal chassis with a white-metal top (the middle mechanism pictured above)."

Thanks for the help up to now, and in advance.  Now, how do I remove the trucks

[spookshow]

It's been years since I had one of those, but based on my picture it looks like maybe they used knock-out pins to hold the trucks in place?  Check inside those little slots on the side of the chassis and see if there's anything that looks like a knock-out pin in there (looks like a headless screw). If present, you push in on one side and then pull it out on the other. The truck should just drop out at that point.



In the earlier version (the one at the bottom of the picture), you can clearly see the knock-out pins sticking out through the slots in the side of chassis.

-Mark

[Airjockey]

Yes, the pins are there, but it doesn't do any good to pull them out.  I  would still like to think the pine are the answer, but I can't make a connection.  It releases the drive gear, but doesn't seem to effect the trucks. 

Each truck looks a little like it is built in an upper half and a lower half.  There are some ears that hold the lower half in place, but they are substantial and very tight.  There are four per truck, which makes it difficult to release them all, plus I fear that any more pressure than I have already applied would only break them.

Back to the pins.  When I removed the top plate - and the gear train fell out - I could see the top of the truck.  It looked like there was a split insert from the truck that held it in place,  i  little like a split funnel.  Again it was very wide and tight, but it has been the only thing that looked like it night release the truck .

If I could send you a picture of something that might help just let me know, and I'll try.  AS an FYI I might mention that I am a retired engineer - not railroad - and am used to chasing solutions to problems.  I might be willing to try something the average person might not.

Thanks for the help so far.

[spookshow]

I found a set of original instructions online (amazingly enough). Says "hold truck in the center with your thumb and index finger, press and twist slightly to detach truck from chassis".

The full manual can be viewed here - http://hoseeker.net/nscale.htm

-Mark

[Airjockey]

Thanks, Mark. 

It sure sounds simple (I opened the link). However, I can't feel any give in the truck or obtain any release from the frame.  There are some copper contact straps from the truck to the motor that can sure get messed up if you try too hard though.  Everything appears to be correct, but I wonder if there might have been another variation in the model. 

I suspect it's one of those things that classifies as "simple" once you have done it once.

[Airjockey]

Well, I just needed to twist hard enough.  I got the clue looking at the chassis drawing on page 8.

[spookshow]

Good job. Now, your next task is to pitch that antique into the trash and get something that was designed in this century 

Cheers,
-Mark

[Airjockey]

You are probably right, but half the fun is re-working this old stuff.  However, I think I am going DCC this time, and I'm going to be very selective about which of my old loco's I even think about equipping with decoders.

[Piyer]

Good job. Now, your next task is to pitch that antique into the trash and get something that was designed in this century 

Cheers,
-Mark

MARK! ARE YOU INSANE?!?!

Airjockey has a nearly half-century old vintage model on his hands. He needs to post it for sale on eBay, where he can easily get one or two thousand pennies for it (+ shipping). Waste not, want not. There is sure to be a sucke.... ahem.... collector out there in need of it for his collection. 

[Airjockey]

Piyer! You dog you.  Why would I want to sell such a valuable antique and saddle some unsuspecting soul with the responsibility of disposing of such an obviously contaminated item.

[spookshow]

Short answer? Yes, I am insane 

Cheers,
-Mark