611 J hesitation

[conn 88h]

This is a new J 611 with auxiliary tender, Bach #82154, purchased from a large internet dealer.  It's had about an hour of run time on Kato unit track with MRC Control Master II power pack.  As I turn up the throttle just enough to move the J it rolls forward exactly one full rotation of the drive wheels, stops briefly and head light goes off, then it rolls forward another full rotation, stops, then starts, stops, etc.  As I turn up the throttle the stop becomes a 'slow down' with the head light dimming briefly.  As it gets up to track speed the hesitation isn't visible but I can hear it in the sound of the mechanism.  I have lubed all the joints, pivot points, sliding parts of the drive gear on both sides with only a slight improvement.  I don't hear any obvious click indicating a side rod catching on another one. Reverse running is the same as forward.  Anybody have a similar experience or a possible solution?

Also Bachmann shows these locos as "sold out".  Does this mean they will not have a replacement available if I were to send it to them?

Thanks for any help.

Roger

[gatrhumpy]

Roger, my advice is to flip the locomotive and run it upside down with the wheels up. See if it does the same thing. See if you can catch on the driver rotation where it's hiccupping. Another thing you night try is to take off the bottom plate and all the drivers to see if there is a piece of ballast in the gears. That could be what's causing the problem.

[conn 88h]

garthumpy, I will do as you suggest. 

Thanks, Roger

[RGW]

I had one with the plastic valve gear hanger was slightly bend in with a similar problem. I bent it our and the problem was solved.

many times the problems are a simple fix. I agree the upside down test is were to start.

[plas man]

last resort - although new could be split gears ?

[James in FL]

Hi conn 88h

If your headlight is going off once per revolution, that is a clear indicator of an electrical problem rather than a mechanical problem.
Ballast, bent valve linkage, cracked gears, would not cause the light to go off.

Run the lokie slowly on the track (shells off both lokie and tender), when the lokie stops, leave it in place, cut the power, and start checking for continuity with your multimeter.
Your tender has all wheels live pick-up... sounds to me like that's not happening.

[conn 88h]

Guys, thanks for your suggestions. Your time and expertise is much appreciated.  I will be away for a couple weeks and with your help I will take up the search for a solution upon my return.

Peace, Roger

[conn 88h]

Well, now it has been a couple years. I followed the suggestions and after a little more testing I began to detect the smell of electrical arcing.  At that point I decided the loco was a goner. I quickly ordered another J and it ran/runs beautifully. Smooth, quiet, good strong puller. Seems as good as my UP FEF. I sent the defective J to Bachmann and as a relacement I chose a Berkshire Pere Marquette for a reasonable upcharge. Good loco. Thanks again to those who offered suggestions.