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0-6-0 slow speed running and a simple fix

Started by RGW, October 28, 2016, 10:34:28 AM

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RGW

I was just playing around with a used 0-6-0 I got off the bay and after adjusting the cylinder assembly It runs good.     I beleave it does need some frame shims for the TT driver as you can see and hear the wheel oscillation. But I am really impressed with the slow speed performance of this engine with only the old one tender truck pick up.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Nuiq35mR2dQ

brokemoto

#1
Put a SPECTRUM all wheels live tender behind it and it will really impress you.  The design on the live truck in the stock version creates a tremendous amount of drag on the locomotive.   The SPECTRUM tender has the needlepoint axle pick up which minimises the drag.  The pulling power is doubled when you use a SPECTRUM tender.

The USRA short, which is the correct as built prototype tender for the USRA originals, does track better than does the slope-back.

I watched the video after I posted this.  I see that you are aware of the advantages of using the SPECTRUM tender.   I am surprised that B-mann has not upgraded this thing with the factory DCC.  At that point, it will have to go to an all wheels live tender.  The newest one is the best, so far, although the older ones are not as bad as some would have you believe.  I had one that crept very well until the plastic piece in the middle of one of the driver axles cracked.

RGW

I had one that I and added cylinder heads to it and used the spectrum short tender frame with a cut down Atlas 0-8-0 tender shell on it and a couple of detail parts.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HNi3fKpr7Q0

TJ

Quote from: RGW on October 28, 2016, 10:34:28 AM
I was just playing around with a used 0-6-0 I got off the bay and after adjusting the cylinder assembly It runs good.     I beleave it does need some frame shims for the TT driver as you can see and hear the wheel oscillation. But I am really impressed with the slow speed performance of this engine with only the old one tender truck pick up.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Nuiq35mR2dQ

RGW,  Nicely done, however as a reminder you might want to check your grammar on -beleave- it should be believe

TJ

BNModeler

i, too, would like to upgrade a Bachmann loco to a different tender. Here's my scenario. I have  one 0-6-0 from the Durango & Silverton set,  one decoder equipped 4-6-0, and one Spectrum long tender. I'd like to put the long tender onto the 4-6-0, presumably swapping the decoder over to the new tender, then put the tender from the 4-6-0 onto the 0-6-0 and convert it to DCC. However, I cannot figure out how to get inside either of the tenders! I feel like an idiot. But I don't want to break them. Can anyone point to a YouTube video that describes how to take them apart? I'd really appreciate the help.

Bachmann, please continue to improve your locos, and don't stop putting decoders into them... despite what other's are doing.

RGW

On newer (metal frame ) spectrum tenders remove the truck screws and possibly two smaller screws the hold the coal load frame on the the bottom and pop the shell loose.

spookshow

You don't need to remove any screws to get the shell off the 4-6-0 tender. It's held on by friction only, so just insert a small screwdriver into the end where the wires come out and then pry the shell up and off.



I don't know about the Vandy tender - never had one.

-Mark

BNModeler

Thanks to everyone that responded. I was finally able to get into both tenders. Here is what I have found for everyone's general information. The Spectrum long tender has pins to accept a 6 or 8 pin decoder. Also, the board sits low enough that the contacts from the trucks rub onto brass springs mounted to the board. The 2-4-0 tender's decoder is hardwired and the trucks contact brass springs attached to the floor of the tender and wired to the board. Not going to be an easy swap as I had hoped. While I'm no stranger to electronics, I am somewhat of a novice when it comes to decoder installation. I'm a bit confused about plugging a decoder into the pins. I thought the decoder usually had the pins, and it attached to the loco. How are the wires to the motor attached? Anyone willing to PM me at this screen name on the yahoo network and offer their expertise? ???

Thanks again.


spookshow

The pins are not where you would connect a decoder. Rather, that is where you would connect the wires (to the locomotive) for track power, motor control and headlight. The decoder wires solder directly to numbered contacts on the tender PC board.

I have a write-up on all of this here - http://www.spookshow.net/loco/bach262.html (just scroll to the bottom of the page)

-Mark