USRA 2-8-2 Mikado Sound Value

[jonathan]

To remove the 2-8-2 shell, take out two screws under the cab


Remove one screw under the cylinder.  Don't worry, this will  not loosen the steam chest:


Finally (or first), slide out the boiler stays from the smokebox.  The shell will lift right off.

I painted one of the light wires before cutting, to remember how to solder them back together:


The smokebox front comes off by popping the bottom:


There is a bit of glue holding the smokebox front on, but it pops fairly easily


Regards,

Jonathan

[jonathan]

OK, in one photo, here's what I've completed so far...


Tender is done, save for the weathering.

Pilot has a kadee coupler, new hose, and "keep off" markings.

The cab has been marked "Q-3" under the number.  I removed the glazing, added a little weight to the roof, and threw in a coat of light green inside.

Still saving the boiler for last.

Regards,

Jonathan

[jonathan]

Cab done:





I had to amputate a couple feet to make 'em fit.  You can see the weight added:


Some preliminary fitting of new pieces for the boiler shell:





Regards,

Jonathan

[jonathan]

Boiler starting to take shape:


Once all the parts are shaped and fitted, I will remove them, and paint.  At the same time, I will finish sanding the shell and touch it up.

Regards,

Jonathan

[jonathan]

New stanchions and grab iron up top.

Cut off the cast on step.  It was on the wrong side.  Put a brass step on the other side.  Cut off the plastic class lights and added brass ones with jewels.

Here's a slightly different angle.


A little touch up and the smokebox front should be completed.

I finished fitting all the detail parts for the boiler shell.  It will take few days, I'm ready to take off the parts, paint them and permanently install them in place.

Regards,

Jonathan

[BaltoOhioRRfan]

Since you're going all out I thought I'd let you know the tender light is in the wrong position......

[jonathan]

Yep, I know.  Thanks.  I'm going to let is slide on this loco.  I intend to do two Mikados.  I'll fix the headlight and reverse light on the next model. Didn't want to monkey with the lights on this one, just in case I botched the job. 

Saw your recent post.  If I may recommend:

The Western Pacific version (DCC Ready) has the correct tender trucks and trailing truck.  You could move the headlight and bell.  Then mark it for B&O.  For whatever the reason these models can be had at bargain basement prices at the moment.

I'm finding these are really good runners, with some added weight. 

I enjoy the superdetailing part. So these locos are right up my alley. I happen to know you are really handy with a hobby knife, drill and paint...

Regards,

Jonathan

[jonathan]

Getting closer:





Added about 1.5 ounces of weight in the cab, steam dome, sand dome and smokebox.  That's all there was room for.

That cab/tender deck apron is a Cal Scale part. Happened across it at a train show last weekend.

Regards,

Jonathan

[J3a-614]

Looking good! 

I like how it seems you used the cast-on starting valve as a base for your added (brass?) detailed starting valve--saves some carving and smoothing!  I'll have to keep that in mind if I get one.

Of course, I'm still spoiled about the earlier Spectrum stuff. . .was so nice to have 3-D detail instead of cast on.

[jonathan]

Don't give up on the Spectrum stuff, yet.  I have a feeling we'll see another offering in the future. At the train show last weekend, I saw three unopened Heavy Mountains for sale.  So the shelves may not be cleared enough for a rerelease, or for something new.  Just my gut feeling...

I did shave down the cast on starter, but not completely. So yes, I did use part of it for a base for my brass starter.

My big problem right now is how to paint brass .008" wire with the paint beading for falling off.  I have to add a bell pull, whistle pull and starter pull, all of which I have prefit.

In the past, I have used magnet wire for pulls, but even that looses paint.  Fine silk thread looks terrible. It's a pickle.

Regards,

Jonathan

Addendum:  I love those mountains so much, I almost bought one, even though I don't need another 4-8-2.

[JWhite]

In the past, I have used magnet wire for pulls, but even that looses paint.  Fine silk thread looks terrible. It's a pickle.

Have you tried fine fishing line or stretched plastic sprue? You can get a line about any thickness you want by heating a piece of scrap styrene sprue over a candle and stretching it, but it's won't be as durable as wire.  I've had good luck with Rustoleum gray auto primer as a base coat on all kinds of wire.

[jonathan]

I like the fine fishing line idea. Thanks for that! My son is forever dragging me to gander mountain for fishing supplies.

I had a tough time trying to post these pics tonight. photobucket is not cooperating.





Things left to do:

Long grabs behind the cab

Paint and install pull ropes

Clean the wheels

Take some good photos

Regards,

Jonathan

[jonathan]

I found the drawbar to be a bit saggy... like it was riding a bit low on the kingpin.  So, I put a very thin metal washer between the screw and the drawbar:



Straightened the bar perfectly, and still swings loosely.  Perfect.

Finished the last grabs:






Almost done.  Whew!

Regards,

Jonathan

[rogertra]

If this engine had been released as a Spectrum engine with the details you've added, details that were pretty much standard on the Spectrum range. I'd have bought two or three as would no doubt many other modellers.

Cheers

Roger T.

[JWhite]

If Bachmann would take the chassis and running gear from this locomotive, and the shell from the 2-8-0 and stretch it to fit, the 2-8-2 chassis they would have an IC 2-8-2 and I would probably buy at least 8 of them.  That's wishful thinking, even though the 2-8-0 was from an IC prototype, they have never released one decorated for the IC.

Oh well, it makes good kitbashing fodder to fill my roster out with IC 2-8-2s.....There are more IC modelers out there then you think