Turnout 44864 dies when installed to track

[Wellinghurst]

Hello, I bought turnout 44864 today, and it works fine, but only when it is not attached to my track layout.  When installed, it does nothing at all, and the train won't switch directions.  I've tried flipping all of the connections, and other stuff that didn't seem related, but I thought I would try anyway. Such as changing the direction it was running.

It's been some time since I messed with a train.  I got this one for my 12 year old.  Has anything changed?  Shouldn't it just be plug and play?

Does anyone have any ideas or do you think it has an internal problem?

Thanks!

[Wellinghurst]

Continuing to mess with it, it will switch a couple of times and then stop working.  Also, the train will only work on one direction when it is installed, and it won't completely stop at all.  

[Joe Satnik]

Dear Wh,

Sounds like you have your #4 analog control N scale E-Z Track turnout in a "reversing loop" (a.k.a. "turn-around loop") configuration

without insulating rail connectors in the proper locations.

The info you need to set up block wiring, including reversing loops,

is detailed in Atlas Book #12, "The Complete Atlas Wiring Book".

Hope this helps.

Sincerely,

Joe Satnik

[Wellinghurst]

Hi Joe, thanks for your response.  To be honest I have no idea what you are talking about.  I have the Thunder Valley set with a couple of straights added to make it an oval instead of a circle.  I was just adding the turnout to make the track have another loop.

[Wellinghurst]

Here is a quick drawing of my track--its pretty simple right now.

Does the rerailer/terminal have to be off the other end of the switch?  I think I read that somewhere.

[brokemoto]

The general rule is that you wire before the switch, not after.   If there are no intended electrical gaps in your track plan, the terminal section is fine, where it is.  However, the "intended" brings me to another point.

Be certain that you have no misaligned rail joiners.  Check each section carefully.   This track can misalign easily, as can that of other manufacturers.  The only sectional track that of which I am aware that comes close to being idiot-proof is the Kato UNITRAK, but I have seen misalignment even on it.  Kato does everything that it can to make its products idiot-proof, but this one is pretty difficult to make idiot-proof.  But I stray.   The best way to test this is to hold down the middle of one section then lift up gently on the adjoining sections, first on one length, then the other.  Do this on each long side of each roadbed section.  If it tries to bring up the section that you are holding down, the connexion is good.  If the section that you are lifting comes up and does not try to bring the adjoining section with it, the joint is misaligned.  The real telltale will be that if you look as you lift up the section, you can see the end of the railhead.  You must perform this test in each direction and on each section of track.  It is tedious and time consuming, to be sure, but it is the best way to make certain that there are no misaligned rail joiners.   Do not stop if you find one misaligned rail joiner; multiple misalignments can happen and a given misaligned rail joiner may not always be the one causing every problem.  An electrical continuity tester may be of some help, but keep in mind that a misaligned joiner still could allow a complete circuit.  Sometimes, when a train runs over a section, the pressure that it puts on a section can open the cricuit if the rail joiners are not properly aligned.  When you prod the train, it changes the pressure points on a section, thus the circuit may then complete, until the train returns to the problem point once more, where it, again, shifts the pressure points to allow the curcuit to open.

In addition to causing derailments, misaligned rail joiners can cause electrical problems.

Another problem with the B-mann terminal sections is that it has a male receptacle and a female plug.  The fit is not that snug and a slight disturbance can cause it to come loose, making the connexion bad thus causing the train to stop operating.  One way to address this is to purchase a section of E-Z TRAK that has wires that run underneath the roadbed.  To use this properly, and, to see to it that you do not have a hump in your trackwork, you will have to use something to which you can anchhor all of the track more or less permanently, such as a piece of plywood or some benchwork.  This will allow you to drill holes in the the plywood/benchwork, run the wires through those holes, under the plywood/benchwork and to your power source.   You can connect the wires in this section to your power source wires using wire nuts, electrical tape or something similar.

[Wellinghurst]

Thank you for your help!  So you think it would be better to put the terminal on the other end of the track, closer to the entrance of the switch?  Does the electrical signal travel a certain direction?

I see what you are saying as far as making sure the track is connected well. 

Thanks again for your input!

[Wellinghurst]

I double and triple checked the track and it's all together well.  Train runs great by itself.  When I install the switch and plug it in, the train wants to increase speed in forward, and the light gets brighter.  In reverse it wants to stop and go the other way.  This is all without touching the actual controller.  This is just by touching the switch power line to the plug.  I'll have to call Bachmann tomorrow I suppose to see if something is wrong with the switch.  I live a good 45 minutes from the train store.

[Mike C]

Do you have the switch connected to the correct terminals on the power pack ? It should connect to the AC terminals , not to the DC track terminals . Or is it possible you got a defective switch ? Does it work OK if you don't plug it in ?  I generally don't use powered switches, I just switch them manually , Although I use Kato Unitrack and it may be a bit different . Does it have a little slide switch on the side of the turnout ?

[Len]

If you have a very small Philips screw driver, turn the switch over and remove the cover plate. Being careful not to drop any pieces out of the switch, check for any solder blobs or wire strands touching something they shouldn't.

Len

[Wellinghurst]

Yes, it is plugged into the correct spot on the power pack.  The way my power pack is made, you can't plug it in the wrong place.  It does have a little manual switch also.

Before I go taking it apart I am going to call Bachmann today.  I'd rather just take it back and exchange it than start taking it apart-if there is something wrong with it.