Track is driving me crazy

[dzldan]

I have nickel track and brass track. I can not get my G scale track to run around the track. Runs pauses, runs again pauses, then just stops. I put the loco on my bench and hook it up with a piece of track and loco runs fine. So you would think it is the front truck pickup causing this. I have cleaned cleaned and cleaned, still does the same thing. I went and bought some brass shim stock that drags on the track, guess what, does the same exact thing. The loco can not pickup power off of this track. I am wits end as to what to do. Train used to work just fine. Its like there is a magic coating that I can see on the rail. I went and lightly used Emory cloth to run around the track with.

Has anyone had this problem, does it with the brass rail also. I had a second loco that I tripped over and broke it and it did the same thing when it worked. Seems to be all track related. I am stumped. Please help

[rogertra]

Get rid of the brass rail is your first step.

Cheers

Roger T.

[jward]

is it losing contact on straight or curved track? how far away from your track feeders does t lose contact? is your track fastened down tightly or does it "pump" under the weight of the train?

[dzldan]

The brass rail is a separate track, only have nickel track it is running on..

[rogertra]

The brass rail is a separate track, only have nickel track it is running on..

In that case, follow what jward wrote below.  Check your track connections.

BTW, don't be surprised if this thread gets moved to "Large" forum as it is about G gauge trackage.


Cheers

Roger T.

[choochoomusic]

Have you cleaned all your inner wheel contacts and all the wheels?
Use a track cleaner and Q-tips to do the wheels and a toner cleaner to do the contacts.
Should it be needed a little DW40 on the Q-tip works great to break stubborn grim...BUT... clean it dry as so their is no residue left.
On the other hand, Brass track is very common and most affordable solid rail on the market. However it does attract a hidden film that can cause intermittent power loss. That is, if the power is put to the track instead of the engine via battery. YES! Brass track requires constant care as do the rail joiners between sections. If applicable, solder all you joints!
Hope this helps.

[dzldan]

Yep, done everything. Even hooked up a power pack, spare one about 3 foot from the loco. Barely runs. Hooked up the brass slides I put on off the track, runs like a top. The brasss slides bypass the front truck mech. Must be Chinese made track from crud.

[choochoomusic]

you've puzzled me with the power pack extra hook up. If I understand you, do you have more than the primary pack connected? I mean, are you using additional Power-packs?

[dzldan]

No disconnected one that was there just to isolate it.

[choochoomusic]

When you use your isolated power pack, does the train run on the isolated track?

[mabloodhound]

Try this.  But first, do NOT ever clean track with emery cloth or an abrasive.  It leaves micro scratches that WILL collect dirt and debris.
Just go over the track with a cleaner like alcohol to remove residue and then rub a graphite carpenters pencil (the wide type) over the rail tops.  The graphite is a good electrical conductor and lasts a long time.  You don't have to do every last inch of track as the wheels will spread it around.
If this doesn't solve your problem then you can bet it is in your wiring/track connections.

[ScottyB]

For G scale track, I polish the rail tops with a very small amount of Mother's Mag Polish.

http://www.mothers.com/02_products/05100-05101.html#&slider1=18

Scott

[armorsmith]

Don,
After skimming this thread I would be interested in a bit more information on what locomotives you are running as well as the track.
I agree with making sure everything is clean and conductive. However I do not agree with there being anything wrong with brass track for large scale.
You stated that the engine 'runs fine' when hooded directly to 'skates' you have added. Is this upside down in a cradle with no load on the drivers? What is the poser supply you are using? For that matter, what scale/gauge are you modeling in?  If you are attempting to run a large scale train on a small scale transformer, that may explain a lot.  Large scale trains run on 19-24 volts DC where as small scale trains are usually 12 volts DC. A large scale engine can use up to 1.2-2 amps of power, far more than an HO power pack will provide. You may be bumping on the transformer overload.
Depending on which locomotive you are working with, there are inherent issues with almost every manufacturer's product that may be causing your issue.
It is difficult for us to provide a useful answer with the limited information provided.
Bob C.

[Chuck N]

I use a green Scotchbrite pad to clean my brass track.  I've been using this for over 30 years.  It is much safer than Emory paper.  It polishes rather than scrape and scratch.  Polishing still scratches the surface, but the scratches are too small to be seen.

I put the pad on a drywall sanding pole and just walk around the track.  These pads are usually found at a hardware store.  They are larger than the ones you usually find in a supermarket.

Chuck

This is what I use.











My loop is about 90' around and it takes about a minute or so.

Also check your rail joiners.  If you have assembled and disassembled you track several times it is possible that the rail joiners aren't tight.  I occasionally have had to pinch them a little with a pair of pliers.  A little conducting grease in each joiner wouldn't be a bad idea either.

Lastly, do you have a version of the Annie or another ten wheeler?  Check to see if the pilot truck is oriented correctly.  That can get turned around and cause problems.  I think, I don't have one, that there is an arrow on the bottom and it should be pointing forward.

[fhenn]

If this is an out door set up make certain that the track is level side to side. When I did mine I had the same problem. Went back with a good level a shored up the track where it is even.