Did my DC powerpack corrupt my locomotive?

[Jeffrey_L]

I recently purchased the Bachmann 2-4-4-2 articulated locomotive which I am extremely pleased with. I only operate using a DC power pack (Railpower 1300), your included info sheet states​ that if both front and rear lights flash to shut down the throttle immediately. This is happening to me, but now but the engine will not recover. What is the next step?

[Stevelewis]

I assume  that  you  have  not  got  a DCC system?

If  you  have   or  perhaps  know  someone  who  has,  try  a  decoder  reset  ( that is usually  the  first  action  with  decoder  problems)    reset  enter  value  8  in  CV8.

If you  have no access to  a digital  system  I would try  removing  the  decoder  from  its  socket in  the  tender, and  fitting  the  blanking  plug  which  should have been  supplied  with  the loco in  one  of the plastic  bags.

Just in case you are familiar  with  a  blanking  plug  it  is  a  small pC type board  aboud  30mm X 20mm which directly peplaces  the  decoder.   The  decoder  is  accessable  under  the  tender  fuel load.

[Jeffrey_L]

Hey thanks so much for the information.
The guy at the service desk said the same thing about the blanking plug. I searched through the extra parts bag but it wasn't to be found. I ended up sending in the loco yesterday. The data sheet said that there could be problems if the power source exceeded 21 volts. My powerpack has an output max of 15 volts so I'm safe there (as I discovered after I sent off my first post). I'll keep you updated when I hear anything.

[ryeguyisme]

If you're running on DC I would suggest NOT using "pulse power" as that will fry PC Boards and DCC/Sound components as well. Some MRC power packs are equipped with that for DC users. Before DCC became a household name, Pulse power was able  to keep engines running smoother without too much hiccups save for dirty track. But now it's become obsolete and rather a nuisance for those who wouldn't know.

[jbrock27]

The MRC Railpower 1300 does not have the "pulse" feature.  The MRC power packs that have the pulse feature, have a slide switch designated and clearly marked for it.  The only slide switches the 1300 has is for direction and on/off.

[Jeffrey_L]

Thanks for the FYI guys. I'm looking forward to getting my engine back though it maybe another 3-4 weeks, will keep you posted. I appreciate the help the forum has been giving me.
J

[Jeffrey_L]

Alright... Its been a while since I sent off my model and had it returned. Bachmann said that there was nothing wrong with it. Bummed out, it sat on my shelf for quite a while until recently when I removed the decoder and rewired everything. To my surprise the locomotive runs exceptionally well, low speed is better than expected.
Just one concern, headlight and tender lights are LED. I'm aware that a resister or diode needs to be placed in line with them but I don't know the type or value. Any suggestions?

J

[jbrock27]

I use 1/2 Watt, Carbon Film Resistors that I have bought from Radio Shack for 5mm LEDs in HO loco projects.  I have used 680 OHM ones and the LED is still what I would call on the bright side.  You can either use a greater OHM resistor to dull it down or put more than one resistor together in series to increase the number of OHMs, to where you want the brightness.

[Richg]

Alright... Its been a while since I sent off my model and had it returned. Bachmann said that there was nothing wrong with it. Bummed out, it sat on my shelf for quite a while until recently when I removed the decoder and rewired everything. To my surprise the locomotive runs exceptionally well, low speed is better than expected.
Just one concern, headlight and tender lights are LED. I'm aware that a resister or diode needs to be placed in line with them but I don't know the type or value. Any suggestions?

J

You said you rewired it. Hopefully you did not connect the LED's to the decoder.

Rich

[Jeffrey_L]

I know better, that's why I asked if anyone knew what the proper resister was. I have a decoder on order for a 2 truck shay so if this is successful, I'll be ordering another. I know, I'm still on a steep learning curve and having fun.

[Richg]

I know better, that's why I asked if anyone knew what the proper resister was. I have a decoder on order for a 2 truck shay so if this is successful, I'll be ordering another. I know, I'm still on a steep learning curve and having fun.

ok as not sure.

Rich

[Richg]

Since you are new to DCC, look through the below link on lighting.
look at all his site. He has loads of info on DCC.

http://www.members.optusnet.com.au/nswmn1/Lights_in_DCC.htm

Rich

[Jeffrey_L]

I appreciate all the info Rich. I just put that site in my favorites for future reference.

[railtwister]

While the MRC power packs may not always have a separate slide switch to control the pulse power, most all of them do use pulse of some form. I have heard the MRC 1300 is one of the units that has automatic pulse injection, though I haven't ever used one. I do have an MRC 2800 Tech II Dual Power controller that I have used for my T-Trak modules, and to date, it has scrambled the decoders of at least four of my locos, three with TCS and one Broadway Paragon with sound in an E-8. The Paragon unit was restored only after several resets (both soft & hard) were performed. The TCS units' resets have not been attempted yet because I need to set up my laptop computer programmer to do it. Different DC power packs seem to have different pulse effects on decoders, and some decoders seem to be more sensitive than others to the effects of that pulse. If you only have DC power packs, and your loco has a jumper plug, then it's probably a good idea to remove the decoder and use the jumpers. Most N scale locos don't have room for a jumper socket, so that's not usually an option.

Bill in FtL

[jbrock27]

  
You could be right Bill, I am no rocket scientist or electrical engineer, but I would like to see something about this in writing instead of just a "I heard" about pulse.  It seems counter-intuitive to me that they would produce a pack with a "Pulse" switch on it and one w/o and the one w/o would have the same feature.  
Regardless, it does not appear the 1300 was the problem here.