wanting to get started in n gauge

[chinatrain99]

Currently, I have an o gauge layout.  on a 5' x 10' all i have is turns.  i just can't continue to build on.  i need to switch gears to a smaller scale.  I just got back from the black hills in south dakota and i'd like to model that area.  here are my requirements:
  i am interested in track that clicks together like fasttrack.  i stink at sodering, ect
  i need an "old timer" passenger train set
  i'd like sound.  i'm not into electronics so i'd prefer to just by a set and extra track

any suggestions?

thanks, jeff 

[richg]

Check the Online store. Very easy to do.

Rich

[Mike C]

  Both Bachmann and Atlas make an old time 4-4-0. The NEW Bachmann is supposed to run real good . The Atlas one runs great , but tends to be a bit delicate to handle . Bachmann also makes some other really great older steamers, the 2-6-0 and 4-6-0 run really good. Then the 2-8-0 is a bit newer and also runs great.  If you are looking for sectional track there is nothing better than Kato Unitrack . Its the best ! .....Mike

[Bucksco]

Here on the BACHMANN forum we would suggest BACHMANN EZ Track.

[Desertdweller]

Actually, Bachmann EZ Track seems to me to be as good as Kato.  I can't rate their track switches against Kato, as I have no experience with Kato, switches.

Bachmann EZ track is what I use for my mainlines and important side tracks.

You are going to have a bit of "culture shock" going from O to N.  Electrical contact is the biggest operational consideration in getting good performance in N scale.

I made the switch from HO to N in 1978, and never regretted it.  If you are interested in train operation and scenery, N is the best scale, in my opinion.

I really think you would be best served if you would learn to solder.

Les

[brokemoto]

Here is what is out there for nineteenth century:

B-mann sells several sets with an 1870s eight wheeler and its nineteenth century wood passenger cars.  The set comes with track and a power pack.  It is a simple pack with a cord that has a built in transformer that plugs into a throttle that contains a rectifier, also.  I have never tried to use that pack, but a couple of people who have told me that it is not bad and is a major improvement over past train set power packs from any manufacturer.  If you must have a set, buy a newer issue.

If you can buy individual pieces, you might be better off.  You can buy individual pieces and still not need to know anything about electricity or soldering.

Bachmann sells an 1870s eight wheeler.  Be sure that you get the latest issue in the plastic box   It is a major improvement over past issues.  The last issues of this one are pretty good.

Atlas recently issued an 1870s eight wheeler.  It is pretty good, as well.  There have been minor problems with the first issues.  The thing is also delicate.  

Atlas also has an 1870s mogul.  It is a pretty good runner and puller but suffers from contact problems.  It is a bit more sturdy than the eight wheeler.

MDC sold and Athearn sells, an 1880s consolidated and mogul.  These are amoung the best out-of-the-box steam locomotives in N.  The Athearns are copies of the MDC design.  The Athearns do come with Micro-Trains couplers mounted fore and aft.

Bachpersonn has a ten wheeler and a mogul that are from the late 1890s to early 1900s.  They are good running and pulling locomotives.  They have decoders installed at the factory.

Model Power sold a very late 1890s to early 1900s eight wheeler and mogul.  They run well, when they run.  They suffer from 1970s construction methods, one of which compromises the electrical contact.  Model Power is now out of business.

Bachpersonn sells a nineteenth century wood coach and a combine.  B-mann also sells Civil War era freight cars:  a box, flat, 'gondola' and 'tank car'.  The 'gondola' is really the flat with sides added, a not uncommon nineteenth century practice.  The 'tank car' is really a flat with three open vats added; it resembles a B&O water car.  There is also a four wheel caboose that is based on a Reading prototype.

MDC sold, and Athearn sells thirty six foot box type cars:  box car and refrigerator.  Some of the MDC cars were available as shake of the box  kits. Many of the paint schemes are really from the 1920s and 1930s, but truss rods and arch bar trucks do say 'nineteenth century'.  MDC sold and Athearn sells both thirty four foot and fifty foot wood passenger cars.  The thirty four foot cars come as Baggage, combine, coach and 'business' car.  The fifty foot cars come in combine, coach, sleeper and business.  There is a wood caboose that appears to be based on the NYCS wood caboose, except that the cupola is too large.   MDC also had some of these as shake-of-the-box kits.

Micro-Trains sells thirty six foot refrigerators.  Again, most of the paint schemes on these are from the 1920s  and 1930s, but they do have truss rods and most come with archbar trucks.  If it comes with another type truck and you want to make the switch, MT does sell the archbar trucks separately and the swap is simple.  MT recently introduced a line of Civil War era freight cars:  there is a flat, box and "conductor's car" (caboose).  They are nice cars and come with what appears to be a wooden truck appropriate to the era.

Arnold used to sell a four wheel caboose that is based on a B&O prototype from the early 1900s.  It is EXTREMELY difficult to find.

As for track, I have experience with both the Kato and Bachmann.  Both work about as well.  I do find that the configuration of the B-mann '#4' turnout a bit curious, but it is not that big a deal, especially if you are operating nineteenth century equipment.  Do get the newer versions of the B-mann track, as the turnouts are easier to wire for a live frog.  The directions are on the back, it involves about four screws and two wires, all of which are in the turnout.  I have had problems with the turnouts from both manufacturers' causing derailments.  The Kato #4 is particullarly bad.  It is just as easy to make the frog live on either manufacturers' turnout.  I have no experience with the #6 from either manufacturer.  Kato has a wider variety in curve radii, but B-mann is catching up.  Kato also has a variety of sharper radii, nine and three quarter and even sharper.  E-Z TRAK does not come in any sharper radius than 11,25 inches.  One advantage that the Kato has over the B-mann is if your track plan requires gapping.  It is fairly easy to pull out the live rail joiners from the Kato and substitute insulated.  It is difficult to pull the live rail joiners from the B-mann and if you substitute plastic rail joiners they are not a good fit.  If B-mann offers insulated rail joiners for the E-Z TRAK line, I have never seen them.

For the Atlas and B-mann eight wheelers and the Atlas mogul, you MUST use live frog turnouts.  The short wheelbase of these locomotives causes them to stall on plastic frog switches.  This is not a design flaw, or anything, it is just that these are small locomotives.

When dealing with N scale steam locomotives it is important to keep in mind Miranda's Maxim as explained by ke:  The poor performance of many N scale steam locomotives is almost always directly attributable to poor electrical contact.