IHC Covered Hoppers

[Catt]

I have a suggestion for those of you that don't think white glue will hold.Take two pieces of flat stock ,spread a even coat of glue to one piece,put the two parts together and let the glue dry.Then pull them apart if you can.You may just be surprized at how strong that glue bond really is.

[jbrock27]

Catt, how long, depending of humidity, does it take for the Tacky glue typically to dry/cure?
Thank you.

[rogertra]

Doneldon is correct.

The cheapest and easiest to obtain weights are pennies, U.S. or Canadian, it doesn't matter.

As for white glue (Elmers)?  It's good enough for holding weights in place inside a car.  Those that say otherwise obviously have never tried it. 

[Doneldon]

Catt and jb-

There's a good reason there are seemingly hundreds of kinds and brands of glue on the market: NO glue works every time we want two pieces of something to stick together. Any modeler, or anyone anywhere, has more than one adhesive on hand in order to handle the different demands of various projects. Gorilla Glue is a wonderful product, for example, but I wouldn't use it to repair a delicate bone china teacup. Similarly, I wouldn't use Goo to reseal an envelope for the mail. We have various products so we can successfully complete different gluing tasks.

It seems clear to me that folks who don't trust white glue can choose another product while those who are confident of its utility can go ahead and use it. I don't think this is a debatable issue.

                                                                                                                                                     -- D

[jbrock27]

I guess I will have to answer my own question: the Tacky glue took more than a full 24 hours before it went from milky white to clear and from gooey to cured.  Please, please, no one assume this is a complaint, just an observation.  I suppose how long this takes depends on the amount of Tacky glue used? (that is a question)

It's unclear to me why this appears to have devolved into the subject of white glue and those who don't use or have confidence in it   Or that there is some "debate" at hand.  How did we get there?

Since I am already here, I will ask: what is the best adhesive/method for putting pennies together? (another question)

Thank you.

[Len]

Donalddon,

You cost analysis is correct, and I do use pennies when building tank cars from kits or scratch. What I use the BB's through a drilled hole for is cars that are already assembled and glued together.

jbrock27,

I normally let the 'Weldbond' glue I use set up for at least 12 hours. It's usually longer, as I'll do a car, set it aside, and forget about it until my next chance for a work session several days later.

Len

[jbrock27]

Thank you Len.  I saw the Weldbond at the same craft store I just bought the Tacky glue from.  It looked to be similar adhesive.  Is that correct or not?

[Doneldon]

Since I am already here, I will ask: what is the best adhesive/method for putting pennies together? (another question) Thank you.

jb-

Absent a definition of "putting pennies together," solder.

                                                                           -- D

[jbrock27]

Definition of putting pennies together=putting several together to make a weight to be used in an HO rolling stock car body
And when I say "best way", I mean what has worked for folks in the past.
Thank you Doc.

[Len]

Thank you Len.  I saw the Weldbond at the same craft store I just bought the Tacky glue from.  It looked to be similar adhesive.  Is that correct or not?

I really don't know. The only 'Tacky' glue I've ever used is "Aleene's Clear Gel Tacky Glue" for putting in windows, and model aircraft canopies, without fogging them up.

Len

[jbrock27]

Once again, thank you Len!

[Catt]

I don't use pennys except to roll them and turn in for dollar bills. Now for the best method of gluing flat stock (pennys or otherwise) the one that works for me is a thin layer of white glue (remember this is what works for me) then stack the items then let them set overnight if possible then glue the weight into the car.

I will state here that the best place for weights is close to the trucks.

[jbrock27]

Thank you Catt.  I was aware of that tip about the placement of the weight, but thank you.
I like your idea better than soldering as it seems easier to me to keep all the pennies in line-most important I would imagine for when they are able to fit in the bottom half of a tanker. 

[rogertra]

Put the pennies on lowest part of the model, where they will be hidden, line them up end for end, cover them with white glue (Elmers) leave them overnight to dry and continue to assemble the model.  They will never move.  That's how I do it for models that need extra weight.

[jbrock27]

Thank you Roger for your help.  If you were going to make a "slug" of say 5 or 6 stuck together, would you put a little glue in the middle of each one and stack them one on top of the other?

And thank you everyone for the help, I am very pleased with how the AHM tanker came out with the added weight.  The Tacky glue worked great!  The only downside is there is not enough "meat" on the frame ends to mount coupler boxes for knuckle couplers, so talgos is what it is going to have.  I am not even able to make a styrene or plastic bridge to glue from what is the outside of the frame to the interior frame of the car bc of a difference in levels from one to the other.  Oh well, can't have it all.