Consolidation: Straight front coupler? And disassembly for decoder fitting?

[TrevorMcAlister]

Hi
My dad recently purchased a second hand spectrum consolidation, can someone answer some technical questions on the loco.
Later this year we are looking to fit the loco with a DCC decoder + sound, but we are having difficulties in working out which screws and parts need to removed, and how, to get access to the main electrics within the firebox. We downloaded the drawings but are still at a loss as to which bits to disassemble not wanting to force any of it apart and damage it.
Any suggestions please?

We also purchased some new box cars etc. at the same time, these were factory shipped with the straight coupler fitted but the loco and some other second hand rolling stock had the offset couplers fitted, so we re-fitted the new rolling stock to the offset couplers for immediate use.
Soon I will be purchasing a new 2-6-6-2 and rolling stock which I assume will all be factory shipped with the straight coupler fitted, can someone confirm?
We are probably going to switch everything back to straight couplers and buy spares for the 2nd hand rolling stock.
My problem is I don't know how to go about fitting a straight coupler to the front of the consolidation as this is a nonstandard mounting, the tender just has one of these mounting pockets which is easy to do, does anyone know the part numbers for a straight front coupler?
Thanks
Trevor

[Chuck N]

Many years ago I replaced the front coupler on the Connie with a Kadee.  Unfortunately, I can't remember the number.  By straight coupler are you asking about body mounted height or truck mounted?  If you are going to run Spectrum cars and engines body mount is the ideal height.  Other brands will also mate up. 

Why are you planning for DCC?  Are you planning to run more than one engine on the same track at the same time, or do you want some of the extra sounds?  I'm asking because I have been in LARGE SCALE for 30 years and never thought that I needed DCC.  since you are interested in narrow gauge locomotives, I don't see any advantage. If you were into standard gauge where you were planning to MU different types of engines I could understand.

Chuck

[TrevorMcAlister]

Hi
Yes I was referring to straight body mounted couplers, preferably the metal Bachmann ones, but there is no coupler pocket on the front of the loco. Do you know what is mounted on new locos.
We are going for DCC for a number of reasons; my Dad wants sound, we currently have 2 locos but soon to be 3 on just a single loop. Phase 1 of the layout is quite large by UK standards at 50m, and phase 2 would add another 50m in a couple of years' time.
With changing gradients of 0 to 3.5%, and switches some distance apart we wanted to be able to walk around and still control the locos.
Trevor

[Chuck N]

Trevor:

I just looked at the front coupler on my Bachmann Connie.  The coupler looks identical to the couplers on my LGB Mpguls.   The coupler for the front of the Mogul is Kadee #791.  It comes with a full step up truck mounted coupler for the tender (#831).

I asked about DCC, because I run in DC analog and have never thought that I needed DCC.  I have sound in many of my locomotives and I remotely control the speed.  I have a Bridgewerks remote controller (UR-15) that is between my power supply and the track.  It has a small key fob with four buttons, on/off, speed increase, speed decrease, and direction.

Chuck

[Kevin Strong]

I'd recommend using an Accucraft 1:20 coupler on the outside-frame 2-8-0. It comes with a coupler pocket that is a bolt-on mount to the front pilot and back of the tender. You have to drill new holes, but that's about the extent of the labor. The Accucraft couplers are compatible with the Bachmann couplers, so you're good hooking it up to the rest of your equipment.

In terms of removing the boiler to get to the on-board electronics, if memory serves, there's a screw going up through the smokebox in the front (remove the front pilot truck to get to that one, and two or four large screws that are underneath the firebox. To get to those, you've got to remove the ash pan, which is held on by 4 tiny screws along the front and rear lip of the ash pan. You'll also want to remove the boiler stays on the front. There's a PC board for the smoke unit, firebox, and lights in the front of the boiler.

If you're installing DCC into this loco, I'd run track power to this board to power the firebox lights and smoke unit (if so desired), but then wire the headlight separately straight to the headlight output of whatever decoder you're using. There are 6 wires running between the loco and tender; 2 for the chuff trigger (the 2-pin connector), and the other one carries track power from the tender to the locomotive (2 wires) and the other pair carries power to the tender light. If you put the control electronics in the tender, then you'll need 8 wires between the loco and tender; 2 for the chuff trigger, 2 for track power forward, 2 for the headlight forward, and 2 for the motor forward. If you didn't want to bother with independent control of the headlight and just wanted it to be on all the time when there's power to the track, then you can get by with 6 wires and just use the existing plugs.

Later,

K