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Attaching E-Z Track To Layout

Started by kj5si, February 28, 2013, 07:56:16 AM

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kj5si

Anybody attach their E-Z track w/grey roadbed to a wooden layout with nails?   How did you do it?  I wonder if drilling a small hole in the grey roadbed would be the way, but I hate to mess-up the track.  Tell me what to do

Thanks

Joe323

I did that but it was completely unessesary and if you tack it down you may decide to pull it up.

Joe Satnik

Dear kj5si,

http://menards.com/main/paint/caulking-sealants/butyl-caulk/white-lightning-seasonseal-removable-weather-stripping-sealant/p-1496254-c-7930.htm

Other clear (less expensive and permanent) caulk may also work, but may be a little tougher to remove. 

Hope this helps.

Sincerely,

Joe Satnik
If your loco is too heavy to lift, you'd better be able to ride in, on or behind it.

Doneldon

kj-

Yes, you can nail or screw EZ Track down. Be sure to drill holes first. You'd be
using quite small nails or screws so the holes wouldn't be too noticeable. Plastic
compatible glue, like Liquid Nails for Projects, works very well and would e quicker.
You have to be careful if you pull it up but it's doable.

                                                                                    -- D

Pops

Low temp hot glue works well also, plus, it's quick and easy.

kj5si

I appreciate all the info, and since there is only a few that are loose, I think I will drill and screw those down.

napa15

I will second the low temp hot glue. I used it to glue all of my EZ Track down to my foam board. No reason it should not work as well for gluing to wood as well. The benefit of it is that you can easily remove your track from the board at a later time if you need to. Just use a putty knife or something like that and it should come up fairly cleanly.

Also, I can take a sharp blade, exacto blade, and quickly remove the old hot glue from the bottom edges of the EZ Track so that I can re-lay it again.

The screw/nail method would also work though. :)

GG1onFordsDTandI

Just a note if you drill. Duller drill bits at high speed works better on plastic, as it is less likely to dig to fast and crack. I often just heat a nail tip and melt thru to create a hole in plastic.

jward

you could also drill using a #61 bit in a pin vise.
Jeffery S Ward Sr
Pittsburgh, PA

GG1onFordsDTandI

Quote from: GG1onFordsDTandI on March 01, 2013, 07:08:16 PM
Quote from: jward on March 01, 2013, 09:41:51 PM
you could also drill using a #61 bit in a pin vise.
Quote from: GG1onFordsDTandI on March 01, 2013, 07:08:16 PM
Just a note if you drill. Duller drill bits at high speed works better on plastic, as it is less likely to dig to fast and crack. I often just heat a nail tip and melt thru to create a hole in plastic.
Or 1mm bit if its too tight a fit for that littlenail ::) Pin vice (small jewelers bit holder for hand drilling) with a sharp bit is another way sure. And very precise. But I prefer to avoid the arthritic cramps associated with the repeated use of one. Gramps, a gaugemaker, taught me the dull bit trick while helping me, mostly by watching/ guiding me, to fix my own toys. (I could vice-set, with sacrificial material, anglehole drill, and measure a #61 in brass before I was in school) A MILD heating of a bit works better than cold bit too. But watch the bit temper. The bits, hot or dull at high speed(best), soften the plastic with heat ,preventing material chipping thus reducing chances of cracks forming from pressures and pulls of the cut. Try it on some brittle old scrap plastic!  8) Not as precise as a pin vise, but are talking screw, or nail(oops crack) and hammer.
Hey kj if metal fastening is involved use screws. Nails hide better, but nails wont be fun to pull out of plastic if you change your layout.  With care a funnel shaped hole can be made with a hot nail(or screw) allowing counter sunk screw heads to be used and covered with putty then painted, like covering a drywall screw. Chip out putty and slot to remove it.