G Scale Spectrum 2 6 0 Mogul DCC ready question

[drmanny3]

I finally got my Spectrum 2 6 0 mogul running correctly.  It has a Phoenix 2k2 sound card located in the rear tender.  My question is that what is necessary to convert this unit to a DCC unit?  What Decoder would you recommend I purchase.  I would like to be able to run this system with my new wireless controller.  The sound system works very well on standard analog. 
Thanks,
Manny

[Kevin Strong]

When you say "my new wireless controller," which wireless controller are you talking about? If it's a DCC wireless system (i.e., NMRA-compliant Digital Command Control), then any DCC-compliant decoder will work, provided it can handle the current. Zimo, Lenz, Massoth, QSI, ESU; all of them make good large-scale-compatible decoders. Since you've already got the Phoenix, you'd need a motor-only decoder that can handle 3 amps or so.

If you're not talking specifically about NMRA-compliant DCC, but a generic command control (Aristo, LocoLink, Airwire, etc.) then you'll have to buy their receiver to be able to "hear" their transmitter. The Phoenix 2k2 will work with them as well as DCC, though you'll be limited in the number of sounds you can trigger based on the capacity of the particular system you're using.

To convert the mogul to DCC (or any command control system), you're going to have to identify the power leads coming in from the rails and hook them to the command control electronics instead of the existing on-board electronics. In the simplest installation, the output of the motor board can be wired to the leads that you just cut to insert the control board. This will feed the stock electronics with the motor output and the lights, etc. will behave as they would in an "analog" DC situation. The better (more fun) way to do business would be to wire the lights and motor directly to the output of the command board, so you have independent control of the lights and motor.

Later,

K

[drmanny3]

I should have mentioned that the dcc wireless control system is the Bachmann 36505 Wireless E-Z Command Dynamis DCC Controller.  It is able to run the three truck shay around a small circular track with a 4 foot diameter.  Do you have a preference for a 3 amp decoder from Zimo/lenz/masoth/qsi/esu?  It sounds like it should be relatively easy to hook up.  I purchased the spectrum 260 mogul with the phoenix system installed.  But I think I can identify the correct wires.  There is sound board that is in the tender.  Then there is the bachmann board that is in the front of the loco near the smoker.  So will I completely disconnet the bachmann board and remove it, replacing it with the decoder?  Or do I leave it intact but remove the engine wires and put the decoder in and then connect the engine to the decoder?  On one of the pages from the Phoenix book, it appeared that I pulled the engine wires from the sound card and inserted the decoder.  Then I reconnect the engine wires to the decoder.  In this respect I would not even touch the circuit board in the front of the loco.  I kind of need some help here.
Thanks,
Manny

[Kevin Strong]

Honestly, I can't really recommend which decoder you should use. I've only used the Massoth and QSI decoders personally. The new QSI Titan is nice, but it's got built-in sound already, so the Phoenix board would be redundant. The others seem to have good reputations based on what I read from those who use them, though. I'm not sure you can go too wrong. You're not going to be doing a bunch of fancy lighting effects, so there's no reason to worry about all that stuff.

In terms of installing the board, honestly, I'd pull the front board and wire everything direct. The Phoenix board will connect to the track leads in the tender, and I'll presume the chuff trigger leads from the rear axle of 2-6-0 are already feeding the board. I believe that's all the wires you're going to need, though you may need to run the motor leads to the Phoenix as well. I'm not sure. I'd put the decoder in the tender as well, for no other reason than it's much easier to take the tender apart for servicing than it is the locomotive. There are 6 wires running between the engine and tender - 2 for the chuff trigger, 2 for track power, and 2 for a back-up light on the tender (if so equipped). The 2 wires for track pick-up and the chuff trigger are used, so what I'd do is use the two wires that would be for the back-up light for the power going to the motor instead. If you want to control the headlight independently, you'll have to either run two more wires between the engine and tender, or what I'd do is install a 4-function lighting decoder, such as the TCS FL4 in the loco to control the loco's lights. They're usually around $15 or so--not expensive. Tie those into the track pick-ups on the locomotive itself and wire the lights to the board's outputs. All three boards will need the same DCC address, but once set, they'll all work just fine together.

Later,

K