layout questions

[BikerPaul]

Hi, I'm a newcomer, actually an airplane modeller taking a winter off sanding balsa.  I would like to attempt an N scale layout, fixed to a board.  I am much more interested in operational capability than scenery, although that will come along soon enough, I suspect. I am aware that there is a fine line between a hobby and mental illness!

I am shopping track brands and layouts.  I like the Kato track, but the layouts they show do not interest me--I haven't seen one capable of operating two trains independently, also they are too large for my situation (one bedroom full of airplanes already!)  The local dealer told me that Blocks and control panels are old-fashioned, and Kato routes their power differently thru turnouts.  Is this why the layouts do not impress me?

The layout I like best has a number of 9 3/4" radius curves. I gather this will limit me to small locomotives and short trains. If I accept this limitation, will I get reliable operations?

Has gluing track to foam board replaced tacking (nailing) to plywood?

[skipgear]

By operations, I would guess you mean a small layout suited for switching. How much space do you have to work with?

Don't confuse lots of track on a plan with operations. If you are truely interested in operations, and lack space, consider building a point to point shelf layout. Don't worry about existing track plans and come up with something that fits your space.

9 3/4 R curves are no longer the norm. Most loco's are designed around an 11" minimum radius and will struggle. Bachmann no longer offers any track tighter than 11". Kato offers some tight radus track but it is intended for trolleys and interurban street running. Most 6 axle diesels will make it aroung 11" but are much happier with 12" or larger. You can use the 9 3/4" in industrial sidings where a mainline loco would never wander.

Look for hollow core door layouts as a starting point. Also don't get stuck in sectional track mode. Flex track allows for much more creaativity.

And yes, glue on foam is more the norm. I have never liked nails to install track. They are unsightly and installed to tight will deform the track and cause problems.

[Desertdweller]

Paul.

Model railroading encompasses such a wide range of skills and interests that it may look bewildering.  I think that is one of its strengths.

Don't let the hobby dealer convince you that DC operation is "old fashioned" and therefore not worthy of consideration.  I think you will find that most model railroads still use this system, and it has more than a few points in its favor.  It is especially suited to small model railroads.

When judging track plans, your biggest consideration should be "what do I want to be able to do?".  You should decide on what your priorities are, and then select or design a track plan that will allow this.

For instance, what aspects of railroading interest you the most, and would be things you would like to re-create in miniature?  Are you attracted to one particular railroad, era, or geographical location?  What to you realistically expect to be able to do in the space available to you?

You can get reliable operation on 9 3/4" radius curves, if you equipment has short enough fixed wheelbases.  I had an N-scale railroad that worked well for 28 years using 9 3/4" curves.

Les

[skipgear]

DC vs. DCC.....

If you are the only one going to be operating on the layout, DC with blocks can work but honestly, the smaller the layout, the easier it is switch to DCC. On a small layout, often the blocks are so short that you are spending more time throwing toggle switches than actually running the train. This is especially important on a switching layout with more than a couple loco's on it.

On a basic switching layout, DCC can be as simple as two wires to a single buss, then feeders to various places on the layout for reliable power.

A DC layout w/blocks is much more complex to design the wiring setup and as a result more time consuming and possibly expensive to set up. A basic DCC system can be had for $100 (Bachmann EZ Command), a more feature packed DCC system can be had for around $200 (Digitrax, NCE, MRC). With DC, you are going to spend $50 on a decent MRC transformer and if you want to run two trains, it will take another one or a Twin Power transformer puting close to $100. DPDT switches and wiring are not cheap anymore so you can see that a complex DC layout can add up very quickly.

The drawback to DCC is that each loco requires a decoder which can add $20-40 to the final cost of the loco. Many loco's are now coming with DCC included though. Everything that is new tooling from Bachmann has a decoder in it from the factory so that cost is not going to be an issue with them in the future as older loco's drop out.

There is no right or wrong answer. If you are running a basic loop of track with only one loco and one operator, DC is the obvious choice but as things get more complex the decision gets blurred. I was resistant to DCC initially but once I made the leap, I haven't looked back.

[Desertdweller]

Paul,

I do not agree with Skipgear on this, but arguing the point will not be helpful to you, as it boils down to opinion and what you want to get for your money.

The best advice I can give you would be to find two people who have model railroads: one with DC and one with DCC.  It would be best if they were similar in size and complexity.

See if each one would show you their railroads.  Better yet, see if they would give you a turn at operating them.  Have each one explain the costs and construction involved in their chosen system, what each system is capable of doing, and the advantages and disadvantages of each.

Then make up your own mind based on what you have learned.

I would not put much faith in the model railroad hobby magazines.  They have a vested interest in promoting the products of their advertisers, and the advertisers are heavily into promoting DCC equipment.

Les

[BikerPaul]

Thank you for your responses. Like the only other time I posted a question,you have given me some ideas to consider.

I can handle a board 60" long, the width is limited by my reach--30"?

Yes, by operations I meant switching.  The layout I keep coming back to is from Atlas--"clockwise & vice-versa".  It looks like I could let one train run, and play in the yard at the same time.  I could also run two trains, if I sat and ran the turnouts. 

I had assumed DCC was much pricier than you guys suggest.  I will look into it