wiring diagram with color code for L.S. 2-6-0

[hanssml]

I have a large scale 2-6-0 mogul,item#91554 that I recently bought new. I has a polarity switch which I find is virtually useless as most power supply/ controllers have a switch on them The loco switch does not have a center off position so I cannot isolate it on a powered section of the layout and run another engine. I have an exploded parts diagram with a wiring diagram but it does not show the color code for the wires going to the switch. I was hoping to cut one of the wires so that when the switch was in the "large scale" or "nmra" position the rail power to the motor would be dead. The wiring diagram does not identify what wires are what, just that they go to an unidentified spot on a circuit board. I guess I could just cut one of the motor leads and wire another switch mounted somewhere else into it but the exploded parts diagram gives me no clue how to separate the body from the chassis in order to get at the motor and its wires. I would also like to get it appart in order to add more weight as I have a pretty steep grade and the engine is so light that it slips with more than 2 cars.
Some other issues with this engine are--
The sound system when running at anything but a VERY slow crawl, has virtually no chuff, just more of a constant hiss.
The smoke system will not produce smoke except at very high speeds, I guess so that the smoke unit gets enough voltage. I wish the smoke unit was low voltage like 4-5 V, with a constant voltage circuit that would limit it to that regardless of the throttle setting.
Other than that the unit runs well and is very smooth. I got it at a very good price as I bought it from St. Aubin Hobbies the day they went out of business at the spring East Coast Large Scale train show in York,PA.. Any suggestion would be greatly appreciated>

[Loco Bill Canelos]

You can cut the wires and use one side as an off switch.  I recommend that you use the NMRA position as the off position.  If you do not, and ever want to run you engine with an LGB engine at the same time they will run in opposite directions or any engine without a polarity switch for that matter. Pullout the smoke box front, Put the switch in the NMRA position, with the wires exposed apply power, and check with a meter to see if the NMRA side is energized.  If so cut the two wires on that side.  The smoke is what it is, not much at slow speeds.  You would need to replace it with an aftermarket unit of some type.  The chuff you are getting is typical.

[Joe Satnik]

Dear hanssml,

http://www.bachmanntrains.com/home-usa/dwg/dwgs/G816X-IS001-2_WIRING_CONNECTION.pdf

http://www.bachmanntrains.com/home-usa/dwg/dwgs/G816X-IS001-1_BODY.pdf

http://www.bachmanntrains.com/home-usa/dwg/dwgs/G816X-IS002-2_CHASSIS.pdf

http://www.bachmanntrains.com/home-usa/dwg/dwgs/G816X-IS002-1_TENDER.pdf

You can't always rely on color codes, so you have to trace down the wires anyway. 

Polarity switches are useful only if you have more than one loco on your track.

Double-heading (closely matched in speed) locos or "chasing" (with proper detection/stopping circuitry to keep the two locos/trains separated) are examples. 

I'm sure that you already understand the following, so for other readers I'll say;

"You can replace the polarity switch with a center-off type switch if you want to retain the full function of the polarity switch and add an 'off' position."

If you don't care which polarity you end up with (I would prefer LS), you could just cut one of the "X" wires on the back of the polarity switch:

1 2
3 4
5 6

1 to 6 and 2 to 5 form what I call the "X" wires.  If you cut a wire and find you have the non-preferred polarity, I can describe how to re-wire.

If the "X" wiring is actually foil traces on a small circuit board that the switch is mounted to, you would have to cut one of those traces.   

To increase smoke output, reduce the voltage to the motor with a diode bridge and diodes:

http://www.bachmanntrains.com/home-usa/board/index.php/topic,13633.15.html

I don't think the stall current on that motor is greater than 6 Amps, so the RS parts listed in that thread should work.

Four chuffs per revolution of the driver wheels is prototypical, and the 2-6-0 chassis drawings seem to have a contact strip drawn every 90 degrees on the chuff drum.  (4 x 90 degrees = 360 degrees = 1 revolution)

My 2001 era Big Hauler set locos have 2 chuffs per revolution of the driver (non-prototypical), which allows for more distinctive chuffs at higher speeds. 

As an experiment, you could temporarily tape over 2 of the drum strips opposite of each other, and see if you like it.   

Hope this helps.

Sincerely,

Joe Satnik 

[hanssml]

Thanks Loco Bill and Joe Satnik. I will try these suggestions. By the way has anyone tried to separate the boiler from the frame? I'm not sure where to start and that is the only way I will be able to add weight for better traction.
Hanssml