E-Z Command Control

[edbubie]

I was running two trains both DCC from one E-Z Command Control center. while running a new 2-6-0 Mogul locomotive the power light and the light beside the number 1 started to flash and both locomotives stoped like the stop button was pushed. I checked both locomotives and found that when I placed the tender of the new locomotive on the track is when the lights would flash. I also found that this is the same thing that happens when some metal object falls across the tracks. Just as I decided that there must be a short circuit in the tender the lights on the E-Z Command controller went out and the unit does not work. should there be a short circuit detection devise between the E-Z Command control center and track. has any ever had this problem?

[Doneldon]

ed-

The EZ Command is supposed to be its own short circuit detection device. It sounds like it worked correctly at first but may not have later. Did you try powering everything down and restarting with nothing on the track? If so, did you then try it with just the loco which didn't seem to have a short? Did you check the apparently defective loco with a meter to confirm a short?

I'm worried that your command station might be fried. You may need to send it into service if it's still dead after powering down and back. The shorting loco may need a return, too.
                                      -- D

[Pacific Northern]

Note the EZ Controller is only covered by warranty for 90 days.

[edbubie]

Pacific Northern  I see from another posting that you use e-z command control. If my unit is burned up would it be better to look at an other DCC controller or get another e-z command unit? I am new to this DCC and do not what controllers are better than others. but looking for the most cost effective unit also

[Doneldon]

ed-

If the EZCom met your needs before its demise, another will meet them just as well now. However, you might want to consider upgrading to the Bachmann Dynamis or an entry-level system from another manufacturer if you were running into too many limitations with your EZCom, or you are planning to enlarge your layout, expand operations or add features like sound.
                                                                                   -- D

[bapguy]

Repower up the system with nothing on the track like sugested. Put one loco on the track you know wont caust the unit to flash it's lights. If this works you unit is fine. Check the tender wheels on the loco that caused the short. These should have wipers on them. One side of each axle is insulated. Make sure the insulated wheels are on same side per truck and that the two trucks don't have the insulated axlws on both side. IE the forward truck should have the insulated wheels  on the left side as you look at it. The back truck should have the insulated wheels on the right side. If not this will cause a short.

[Rangerover1944]

Important! Disconnect and unplug the components, everything. Plug your components back in before you plug in the power cord. Jim

[Rangerover1944]

Note the EZ Controller is only covered by warranty for 90 days.


Not so, it's one year! 

[Pacific Northern]

Note the EZ Controller is only covered by warranty for 90 days.


Not so, it's one year! 

Where do you get your information?

This is from the Service Section of this site
Items less than a year old are fully covered and will be serviced or replaced at no charge when accompanied with warranty card or proof of purchase.

For items more than one year old, there is a nominal service charge for repair or replacement (prices subject to change):
$15.00 - All standard non-DCC locos
(excluding Large Scale)

$25.00 - Standard DCC and
Spectrum® N and HO

$30.00 - Williams, On30, and
Standard Line large scale

$50.00 - Large scale Spectrum®


All accessories, power packs and speed controllers, and Plasticville USA® items are covered for 90 days only.

[Rangerover1944]

OOPS my bad I thought it was a year, I stand corrected. I've been using mine for 7 years and never had a problem.  Sorry, Jim

OOPS again! I did have a similar problem after hooking everything up when I had to move my layout to a new home. I hooked it all up and nothing worked. I came on this site and was directed to do what I suggested by unplugging everything and leaving the power cord till last. For what it's worth it fixed it for me. Sorry again, Jim

[Pacific Northern]

Rangerover

It is too bad the warranty was not longer. I have been using me EZ DCC unit for about the same time as you. As I bought more engines and switched to sound as well as DCC the EZ unit could barely handle my layout. So having to increase the power of the EZ unit I was surprised at just how expensive the booster units were. I also now needed to be able to read and write CV codes so I had to purchase another unit anyway just to be able to address the CV's.

I delegated the EZ DCC unit to my test layout which is mounted on a 4' x 8' plyood panel which is hinged and kept in the garage. No when I get something new I can let the unit run as long as I want and allow me to use my layout at the same time.

[Rangerover1944]

Pacific Northern, I agree with the limited use of EZ Command. When I came back to the hobby after almost 40 years lot's have changed, it opened up a whole new world in the hobby. I wasn't sure if I was even going to stay with DCC, reading so many posts on model railroading sites with decoder issues, what's the best units and lots of money for it all and the price of DCC loco's with/without sound, DCC ready it was all real confusing. I was sort of still stuck back in the 50's-70's with all the problems of that time and the frustrations, it was the frustrations of the DCC users were having with their new DCC systems that gave me doubt. I didn't know what a cv was and wondered how did these guys learn about cv programming and remember all the cv's and each value, scary!

But I too after 2 years wanted to learn more and reading still more posts I wanted to program my decoders too to acquire maximum performance and just tinker and learn. Money after I retired became an issue. The cheapest way for me was the Digitrax PR3/JMRI for $74.00. Once I received it in the mail and assembled a program track and began using it, I found out there were no bogey men. Changing the cv's and trying it on the track, finding out sometimes nothing worked by the changes I was making, I often used my friend, factory reset, nothing lost and I acquired many learning experiences. Now after a few years with programming, converting analog to DCC on most of my old favorites, buying junk/used steamers on eBay and converting them, about 2 dozen in all, it seems rather simple and easy. Converting those old loco's as long as they passed the stall test and ran decent and weren't all beat up was the most rewarding.

I still use my EZ Command though I can't count how many times I had an urge to upgrade, money is no longer the problem it's just I think of the problems I don't have that others seem to have even with more expensive systems. And I wonder also what can others that have better system's do that I can't do with Bachmann EZ Command along with PR3/JMRI, besides program on the main, more slots for address's, the ability to operate my 45 switch's through my throttle and the cost of that alone for the function decoders and rewiring all of them is definitely out of the question. OK and the only other thing I can think of is computer interface, because I have played around with the idea of panel pro to run my layout via computer. I have the interface with DP, but I would still need the better controller than Bachmann EZ, we all know that's not compatible.

Oh I suppose some day I'll upgrade and probably to the NCE system, they did have a lot of problems in the beginning, but NCE drastically improved in the last 4 years or so. If Dynamis was a wired system, I'd buy it in a New York heartbeat.

I know how expensive the Bachmann booster is, though I won mine on eBay for a whopping $180.00 several years ago, but I'm glad now I have it. It has a fan and doesn't overheat like some of the other brands do. I've heard of guys putting fans on their other boosters to keep them from overheating. I also believe I would have fried some decoders if it were not for the sensitivity of the Bachmann booster in detecting the tiniest of shorts and shutting down, I'm happy with my Bachmann EZ Command and booster and I might add the reverse mods on my loops (3) nothing has failed or given me any trouble or problems in many hours of operating.
Jim

[Rangerover1944]

Northern Pacific one more note I feel a need to add. Using JMRI I have all my DCC loco's logged on the roster sheet. Even if I were to upgrade, I'd still use JMRI/DP as others do. It for me is the greatest thing that came to be like sliced bread. I can look back 3 years ago and see what I did to program a decoder to the performance of my liking and if I installed the same decoder in a different loco, all I have to do is place the new loco with the decoder installed on the program track and hit the button write changes to sheets, done, a little minor tweeking and I'm up and running. Jim

[Rangerover1944]

Back to the topic, if the tender trucks somehow got turned around so that they are both on the same side, the decoder would have fried without doubt if the short detection device failed. Jim

[Jim Banner]

Back to the topic, if the tender trucks somehow got turned around so that they are both on the same side, the decoder would have fried without doubt if the short detection device failed. Jim

Close, but no cigar.  Shorting the INPUT of a decoder shuts off the power to the decoder.  There is no power at the decoder to over heat it.  Shorting the OUTPUT of a decoder overloads it, causing it to heat up.  If the decoder has over current and/or over temperature detection, the decoder should shut itself off to prevent damage.  If not, the decoder will self destruct.  Over current protection in the command station is basically to protect the command station and to keep the wheels from being welded to the rails in case of a shorted locomotive.  Over current protection in the power supply ("wall wart") is to keep it from starting a fire in case of sustained overload.  Suggestion - before junking your E-Z Command, use a meter or a small, 12 volt lamp to make sure the power supply is working.

Over VOLTAGE is a whole different kettle of fish but it too can damage or destroy a decoder.

Jim