Question about switches

[SteveWard3928]

I am building a small 1st layout.  my main is 57 feet long.  It goes around the shed... back to the main behind some fencing into  the flower garden then back to the main. A VERY lopsided figure 8. My question is this:  I will be using 2 switches on the main. I need the train at first to go straight thru the switch so it goes behind the shed. After it is done circling the shed I need it to get back on the main. How can I do this automatically?  Is there a way to use magnets that will flip the switch?  The same is true for switch #2.  Photo of layout is at:    http://www.flickr.com/photos/59688606@N03/6890011546/           
Thanks for any help, Steve

[Kevin Strong]

You've got a double reverse loop there, so you'll need to throw the switches and control the direction of the track on the single mainline between the two switches. This can be done "fairly" simply with products from a few manufacturers.

I think the simplest approach to this would be to use a RR Concepts "Yardmaster" controller. www.rr-concepts.com It'll do exactly what you want. I think with this system, the switches will always set so the train runs the same direction around the loops, i.e., it will throw both switches at the same time as soon as the trigger is tripped (a magnetic reed switch).

You can also look at Dallee Electronics' line of controls. www.dallee.com They've got quite a few different automation controls that can be combined for some seriously complex automation.

Another line to look at would be LGB's "EPL" automation system. I'm not sure which components you'd need off the top of my head. Also Massoth (who made some of LGB's electronic components) also makes an automatic reverse loop control box.

I'm starting a series in Garden Railways that looks at basic automation systems to do what you're looking to do and a handful of other common, simple tasks. I haven't gotten to writing about the reverse loop controls yet, but I've done some preliminary research into manufacturers and what they make.

Later,

K

[Sleeping Bear]

  One would think that if your switches move free than a spring could be used to push or pull the switch into the straight through position and if the spring is light enough then the weight of the wheels on the train should be able to push through the switch and it will return to the straight through position after the last set of wheels have passed through. The issue will be getting a spring light enough to allow the weight of the wheels to trip the switch and strong enough to close it after. To help with this issue ...an assortment from a Harbor Freight or an auto parts will help with that.   I cant find it right now but I have seen advice along these lines on this board in the not so distant past. the only down side I can think of at the moment is wear on the closed side of the switch....Battery power and proper lube intervals should minimise this.......Hope this helps....Later All....   S.B.

[NarrowMinded]

Sleepingbear the spring idea works but you have to add extra weight to the rolling stock to keep it from jumping the switch,  otherwise it's hard to find a balanced spring

I had set up some switches using magnets mounted to the switch to push/pull the switch closed, you just have play with the distance of the magnets.

Steve,

For the layout shown there are a couple of things to consider, one is reversing polarity of the track when the loco turns around, and isolating track sections(if your running track power)

Another is the Under ground section, you should consider the grade going down and back up, weather "flooding" etc, cleaning the track, and critters that love pre-made dens such as skunks.

You might think about laying down a grade crossing in concrete or wood across the front of your shed opening to avoid the problems that you may encounter with what is shown in the drawings.


NM-Jeff

[az2rail]

The underground segment was my concern also. How do you plan on keeping that area clean? As to the switches. It might be better to just delete the switches and run a double track in that area. Or use the switches as a cross-over if you want to reverse the trains direction.

[Sleeping Bear]

NM....good catch on the polarity......hadn't thought of that as I intend to run on board battery power, but if running track power could cause a small head ache setting up to reverse the polarity.....but then I don't know......haven't looked into it....have wondered about the weight issue in the switches as well.....I would also delete the tunnel, though neat, will most likely cause more problems than its worth...Looking at the lay out picture....if you take out both switches and replace switch one with a crossing, and 2 with a piece of curve, you could run a line down along the back side of the first and dog leg it back in behind the fence, or leave switch 2 in and use it as a storage siding.....Hope this is some help..... Later All.......S.B.

[NarrowMinded]

If the OP wanted a tunnel portal I would add them where the track meets the building corners, I would build a tunnel 1 or so long and cover it with rocks and maybe Some plants so you would still get the affect of the train going into and coming out of the tunnel with out the hassle of the underground issues.

NM-Jeff

[Kevin Strong]

...but if running track power could cause a small head ache setting up to reverse the polarity...

There are a good number of products that take the headache out of that now. The RR Concepts unit I mentioned, Dallee makes some, Split Jaw... Pretty simple. You could have it tied to the circuits throwing the switches or not.

...have wondered about the weight issue in the switches as well...

That's the bugger with spring switches. Most commercial switch machines are too stiff to function effectively as spring switches, if they even allow for the points to move at all on their own. I use very light "V" springs on my switches, and I've still got a few front pilot trucks that don't particularly like to push them open. With those throws, they're not "true" spring switches, but what's called a "rubber" switch. A true "spring switch" will return to its original position once the train passes. A "rubber switch" will remain in the new position. The neat thing about rubber switches on reverse loops is that the train will run around the loop in opposite directions each time it goes through. It adds some operational interest.

Later,

K