News:

Please read the Forum Code of Conduct   >>Click Here <<

Main Menu

4-4-0 rehash, thoughts help sought

Started by kmcsjr, January 24, 2011, 11:44:14 AM

Previous topic - Next topic

kmcsjr

Now I am confused.
My old cardboard and styrofoam box PRR 4-4-0 has the same thin linkage as my plastic box, dummy knuckle unit. A thin shaft with a Tee at each end.

I lubed the new one tried running it tonight. The motor really vibrated in the tender and makes a terrible noise with or without the linkage n place.

This morning I shimmed the motor with a small piece of a business card. It quieted considerably. I've been running it and (as Brokemotto told me in another thread) it is light years ahead of the older units. I still want a Spectrum as I run near our TV and if I can't make it run quietly the family insists it sit quietly.

Any other thoughts on quieting this without remotoring?
On the one hand, it looks like the perfect loco for my first remotor attempt (price). On the other hand... If there is a better way...

sharriso

They are cool locomotives, but we are having similar problems with ours.  Not real loud or wildly vibrating but they are so small even small imperfections show up.  Running them for a while seems to help.  Where did you put the shim?  I'd like to see a photo so I can modify ours.  And finding a new motor is tricky.  We are talking about 9 or 10 mm diameter and 18 mm length.

Shawn and Sally Harrison
  - Modeling 1850s B&O
Shawn and Sally Harrison
- Modeling 1850s B&O

kmcsjr

S&S
I Removed the wheels and pickups.
Then I pulled the black block that holds the motor in.
I took out the motor and slid a piece of business card(folded in 3) between one side of the motor and the wall. I think this motor is similar to what Bachmann uses on all small stuff. It whines without the loco connected. No idea on the wholesale price differential for a better, quiet motor, but I'd pay it. I might not buy as much stuff, but I'd like to buy better stuff.

sharriso

The MotorMan sold me a very nice five-pole Mashima 9x13 that fits (after some modifications).  Forgot I had it -- it was hiding in a tender that was hiding behind another project I was working on.
Shawn and Sally Harrison
- Modeling 1850s B&O

kmcsjr

Hmmm your're modeling B&O, I just picked the 4-4-0 up in B&O at a hobby shop today (stuck in a hotel again). It's running a lot better than the Jupiter that is supposed to be the same vintage. The Jupiter runs a little quieter pulling a few cars. Is the 5 pole quieter?

sharriso

#5
We got the B&O set at a train show.  Runs pretty good for its size.  Tested it on code 40 rail.  It's a lot quieter than the previous versions and the gearing is higher -- good slow speed performance.  I will try your shims and see if that helps.  They tend to get quieter with running.  Have not installed the Mashima yet.
Shawn and Sally Harrison
- Modeling 1850s B&O

kmcsjr

I flipped a coin on set vs just the loco. How do the cars compare to others of that type?

sharriso

The B&O set comes with the same three 47-foot "Overland" cars as the other Bachmann old-timer passenger sets.  The paint is a little thicker than before (same for the engine). 

Mr. Bach-Man:  Athern used to make the 35-foot "Overton" cars that look a little more to scale.  Would you consider getting the rights and/or tooling to those cars?
Shawn and Sally Harrison
- Modeling 1850s B&O

brokemoto

#8
I doubt that B-mann could get the rights to them or even a licence to manufacture them as Athearn still sells them.  Athearn recently announced a new run of 2-6-0s and passenger cars to go with them.  Some are foobies, such as the SP Daylight colors, some are more realistic.

Here is a photograph of the B-mann eight wheeler lettered and painted for the PRR as it pulls three Athearn Overtons, also lettered for the PRR.  

Athearn bought out MDC some time back.



Athearn sold the Overtons in the B&O blue and grey scheme, which is a foobie.  MDC sold the Overtons in a white body with a blue stripe on the letterboard and BALTIMORE AND OHIO spelled out in it.  That scheme may be more realistic for the 1880s/1890s.  The MDCs pop up on FeePay in kit form from time to time.  The kits are shake-of-the-box.  Do not attempt to use the MDC knuckle coupler.  MT conversion is not difficult.  You simply cut the lip off the bottom of the passenger deck, cut off the underframe supports forward of the truck mount and body mount 1023.


Do not forget to cut the coupler box extension from the MDC truck.