does the bachmann g scale track have a code size

[mf5117]

Im getting a g scale bachmann tweetsie set for christmas , and have been looking at different types of g scale brass track . Is there a certain code type for bachmann g scale , and I have never asked this question . but what makes the different code types of track . I was looking at aristo craft , LGB and USA . I'm looking at buying 60 to 100ft of indoor outdoor brass track at 1st , straights and curves and a couple of turnouts . I see many different prices and discounts on the net .  I just want to make sure I buy the right size track for my tweetsie set . any recommendations ........thanks for the help new to g scale   ....... mark f           

[NarrowMinded]

All the large scale brass will work with your set, I use Piko Aristocraft and LGB mixed and matched what ever I find on sale or on Ebay, it all works fine, I have not used USA track though.

There is a difference in the number of ties per/ft depending on if it is Euro style or American style, but they still work Just one has more ties.

NM

[Jon D. Miller]

To answer your question.  Code 332 brass or stainless is the most popular.  Some folks prefer code 250 since its profile is closer to scale.  Code 332 will be a taller rail and works well outside since it is not so prone to being fouled by small pieces of debris.

Type of ties really has nothing to do with the rail code.

One of the "Enthusiastic Children"

JD

[NarrowMinded]

My comment on the number of ties is not in reference to the code of the track, but in reference to using Piko, LGB or Aristo-craft. some people are picky about the number of ties per foot, I mix and match and nobody has ever noticed.


NM

[Loco Bill]

NM,  I too mix  tie spacing and no one has ever noticed.  I also mix stainless steel and brass rail, but paint the sides a rusty color.

Mark,  I have to agree with JD on the recommendation for the code 332 track if you run outside.  There is no reason not to mix and match your track and tie style from an operational standpoint, as long as it looks ok to you.

If you are on a tight budget used track can result in considerable savings.  Since you are new you may want to talk to Robby at RLD hobbies.  He has a website RLDhobbies.com and you will find an 800 number there.  Robby will not let you make a mistake in your purchases and always answers the phone personally.  His prices are very discounted. 

I know you will enjoy your new Tweetsie set.  It is a great set!! 

Welcome to the hobby and have a great Christmas!

[NarrowMinded]

Loco,
I stay away from mixing rail materials only because two differant metals contacting each other results in electrolysis due to their differant conductive properties even while not electrified, if the connection is good and tight I'm sure the problem is minimal, I am just finicky that way. I would make sure and use a good conductive compound/grease on any outside connections though.

NM

[Loco Bill]

NM,

The problem with electrolysis is that it usually takes place when underwater, or in continuously extremely wet conditions. 

It has never been a problem for me.   Consider that If you are using Aristocraft or USA TRains brass track, the screws that hold them together are stainless steel. 

This has been a topic before, and there have been no reported problems.

[mf5117]

thanks for the good information . if you were going from copper to carbon then you may see electrolyse . then you would need a dielectric union with the insulator . I've seen in less than 6 months some pretty good leaks due to this in some chilled water systems ,on the make up water side . because someone was in a hurry .

I do thank you for the information . I will probley order my track after Christmas . enjoy the set indoors then venture outside . I've seen some pretty unique medium size garden layouts that I would like to do . thanks again for the help I'm sure I will be asking some questions again ...happy and safe holidays   mark f .....

[NarrowMinded]

Thanks Loco,
I had never seen it on the board before, I assumed that since he is buying 60' to 100' feet of track he would be putting it outside, having never mixed track as far as metals are concerned I didnt know if problems would a rise or not, I may try mixing differant materials now. I am a penny pincher for sure and have yet to buy a new peice of G track.

NM

[Loco Bill]

NM, Mark

I got started mixing track, because I needed some brass wide radius switches a few years ago but could only find used stainless steel at a reasonable price.   At the time even new brass switches were out of stock at dealers.

I asked the questions about mixing metals on mylargescale.com.   They set me straight on it.  I went out and looked at some joints that are over 5 years old and there is no sign of a problem and my track is laid in a very wet area.

[on30gn15]

As well as code number, which is rail height in thousandths of an inch, the rail profile, or cross-section is important.

Looks like Bachamnn's set rail would be about code 325, or .325 inch high.

The profile cross-section is made of sheet metal bent into a thin channel, not at all like solid T-section rail that other track is.

But the important parts, the railhead and its inside edge have functionally pretty much the same shape.

Another consideration is the wheels - how big are their flanges?
An illustration from small scale - decades back code 100 rail was pretty much the only thing for mainstream HO and wheels had pretty deep flanges.
As smaller rail, code 83, code 70, came into greater usage, those old deep wheel fanges would hit the spikes on the smaller rail.

The 4-6-0 locos here have around what looks like something in the neighborhood of .100 wheel flanges.

By the time you allow for the height of whatever secures the rail to the ties to rise above the base of the rail, I would say anything code 225 and up would be a safe and easy answer.