Caboose ground throws and Atlas code 100 track

[SteamGene]

How does one connect a Caboose Industris ground throw with an Atlas Code 100 #6 turnout?
Gene

[lanny]

Gene,

I am not sure this is the best way, but it works great for me. I use only Caboose Hobby 'sprung' ground throws with Atlas NS code 100 turnouts.

Here's what I do: (this assumes your turnouts are in place and relatively secure to the road bed.

(1) I cut away as much of the excess Atlas throw bar as I can AFTER determining which side I want the Caboose Hobby throw placed.

(2) Use "piano wire" ( a very stiff, hard wire. Don't try to cut it with 'track cutters'. The wire is so hard it will leave indentions in your track cutter blade. Use a heavy duty wire cutter and safety classes.)

(3) I also cut away some of the Caboose Hobby throw bar and drill a tiny hole (the size of the 'piano wire' in the throw bar.

(4) Position and secure the Caboose Hobby thow in exactly the location you want it (make sure it has equal, play for either direction of the turnout and that it will properly lock in place in either 'open' or 'closed' position). I tack mine in position using spikes and when everything is adjusted exactly as I want it, and working properly, seal it with 'shoe goo' or some other contact, permanent cement.

(5) Simulateounsly with #4, bend one end of the piano wire at a 90 degree angle and trim it with wire cutters so that it will fit through the center open rivet hole on the movable end of the turnout, but will not protrude high enough to catch uncoupler bars on Kadee couplers. You will have to use needle nose pliers to work it underneath your turnout and twist it so that it slips into the open hole.

(6) Bend the other end to fit in the hole you have drilled in the Caboose Hobby throw (probably should do these two bends first, before installing. If you do it correctly, the piano wire is stiff enough to move the turnout back and forth without bending and works perfectly. Keep your Caboose Hobby throw as close to the turnout as possible.

(7) I'll take some photos of mine, and if they turn out will post them on this thread.

I am very happy with the way this works, though it is not 'prototypical looking' because the Cabooose Hobby throws are too large ... but they work beautifully.

One other thing ... if you want a long extended throw for a turnout such as one which is a 'long reach' from the operator, run a piece of very small styrene or metal tubing through which the piano wire is run. Seal that tubing to your layout base so it has no lateral movement. Hook the Caboose hobby throws to the outside (near the operator) of the layout. This also works very well, and can be easily covered so as to be invisible once scenery is laid.

lanny

[lanny]

Hi again Gene,

Here are some photos of my Caboose Hobby ground throws. Sorry about the 'fuzziness' ... I still haven't learned how to use the 'closeup' setting on my wife's digital camera 

An explanation is beneath each photo



This shows a CH ground throw directly connected to the Atlas turnout tab. This requires some careful drilling and, I think, is more difficult to do then adding the piano wire.



This is one of my very few Peco turnouts that I have used with the CH throws



This shows a CH throw linked with piano wire to an Atlas. You can see where the wire comes up through the center hole. (The round piece at the top of the photo is a red kadee fibre washer. My track work, being 'less then perfect'  needed to have a few turnouts with these added to stop derailments. With them in place, I no longer have derailment problems. They will eventually be painted black as will the piano wire).



Another Atlas turnout with the CH throw connected with piano wire (this one also has the Kadee red fibre washer to even out the turnout rail height when against the outside rail).

Hope these are somewhat helpful ... 'experts' on the forum will probably have much better ideas for how to properly install the CH throws ... but these have worked flawlessly for me.

lanny nicolet

[lanny]

Oooops, sorry Gene!

here's the photo I missed on the last reply.



lanny nicolet

[SteamGene]

Thanks Lanny.  I may go to piano wire later.  I've removed the raised section of the bar, cut it between the now visible holes and mounted the Caboose throw directly to it.  Works fine after you get the throw adjusted.
Gene

[pdlethbridge]

some caboose ground throws come with 5 attachments to match the turnouts your using. I'm using them on my shelf layout with code 83 Atlas track. these have an internal spring and they work great even though they don't travel as far as the non-sprung ones

[Craig]

Gene,

All of my turnouts were fitted with Caboose Industries ground throws using the exact same technique you described. You just set the unit to center position and put the points in center position and mount the throw. When properly centered there will be moderate overtravel in both directions, which will be taken up by the internal spring of the ground throw.

I used plumber's epoxy (the stuff you kneed by hand to a uniform color) to simulate concrete slabs for the throws and then pressed them into the epoxy before it set. I then pressed track nails through the lugs on the ground throws and into the uncured epoxy. Concrete colored paint on the slabs and a combination of oily black and rust on the throws completed the installation.

[SteamGene]

I like the painting idea!  Thanks.
Gene

[jayl1]

I do basically what Lanny does but I mount the throw directly on the homasote roadbed.  This also means the "pin" used to connect to the Atlas switch must be shortened.  I haven't had any problems doing it this way.

[pdlethbridge]

I use the plate they provide that lifts the throw and I haven't had to cut any pins. I nail the throw right on the homasote. They are holding very well

[ebtbob]

Gene,

      In HO scale,  I have basically just cut away part of the plastic on the topo of the throw arm that has the hole in it for the Atlas machines.   Then,  centering the points and having the throw arm on the CabInd throw verticle,  spike the handthrow in place.  I too use the sprung throws as they are a bit more forgiving during installation.   With the rigid models,  you have to be basically dead on or the arm will pop out of place while throwing the points.    Since I use cork roadbed over plywood,  I simple cut a small piece of cork to fit the throw,  reverse the bevel so it snugs right up to the roadbed and use Atlas track nails to hold the throw in place.
       One other thing I do,  once the throw is installed is to paint the square end of throw arm.   When the points are set for "the main",  straight, whatever,  that side of the square end facing up is painted white.   When the points are thrown for the divergent/curved direction,  that side of the square end is painted red.  As I understand it,  many railroads used this color system on their handthrows.   It allows one a quick referenece as to how the switch is thrown without having to look at the points.

Bob

[lanny]

Bob,

Thanks for the idea on painting the throws depending on the turnout direction (white and red). I'll do that on mine, for I have had a 'few' derailements because I didn't check the turnout before moving the train!

lanny nicolet