Spectrum Transformer Excessive Heat

[HHRR]

Renniks,

Sorry,  but what is a "wallwart", and who would sell them?  I am not familiar with the term.  Your suggestion does make sense.
Thanks, Joe

[BIG BEAR]

   Hey Joe,
  http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wall_wart
   How many people have old cell phone chargers lying around? just check voltage.  I have also used an extra old transformer to operate just the accessories. That was partly due to logistics on that layout, but it worked great.

        Enjoy,
            Barry

[HHRR]

Thanks Barry, that gives me some options for running lighted buildings only.
To all the fellows who helped me, I tested the transformer last night. With no load and at 0, 50 and 100 on the dial, it barely got lukewarm after about 2 hours.  I then ran my train only (no depot lights) with three lighted cars, and after 20 minutes, the transformer was real hot, and the train would slow up then speed up, then stop, then start.  So, the transofrmer is shot.  I did find a new replacement one on line. However, one of you fellows suggested an upgrade to a more powerful one, especially with future expansions.  But, the VA rating of some is confusing.  The Bachman transformewr puts out about 1 amp. So, any suggestions for a better more powerful one would be appreciated.
Thanks,  Joe

[railtwister]

I forgot to mention that some GOW bulbs apparently have little or no quality control, and the current they draw can vary greatly, sometimes over 1/4 amp! If the power supply is 12 volts and is rated at 10va, it is only putting out slightly more than 3/4 of an amp (.8333 amps), which isn't that much, especially if you are trying to run a typical trainset consist of loco (w/headlight) & 3 lighted passenger cars. It's possible that the extra lights are the last straw. See if you still have a similar problem with just the loco & cars, and then just the loco by itself. Keep in mind that when you buy a trainset, you usually expect a better price on the set than if you were to buy the same loco & cars individually, but the manufacturer still has to include track, transformer, and a large display box, plus pay higher freight because the sets are so large, just to get it to you. So, there just isn't a lot of room for them to include a high end power pack in the deal, because it's basically a "freebie". Since the loco, cars, and track are sold separately, the only thing that can be cheapened to keep prices down is the power pack.

Regards,
Bill

[HHRR]

Bill,
Thanks for the information, I see your point.  I tried my train with just the loco and lighted cars and had the same problem.  I have run this same consist for years, with no problem, it just showed up at Christmas.  My 2-6-0 has the headlight and a cab light (GOW) that I installed about 9 years ago.  My current Bachman transformer is rated at 15 VDC, and 10 VA.  I was thinking of replacing it with a 15 V DC  transformer made by MRC, with either a 17 VA or 18 VA rating.  I assume that this would give me the extra reserve power for the train.  Then if I have 12 V at the track, I have about 1.5 amps available.  Am I figuring this correctly? Does this sound like a reasonable approach? Just want another opinion, and I won't hold you to it.  (They also have some that are rated at 20 VA, but they are at 23 V DC, and this may be overkill).  I also plan on getting a cheaper transformer just to run the building lights, or a walwart.
Thanks, Joe

[renniks]

      Joe,

      Your figuring is correct.  The 20VA--23VDC is probably for Large scale and not suitable. The 18Va will do fine.  By the way, if you get a new transfmr to run the trains,try your old one for the lighting,adjusted to give light level you like. Should work ok and save cost of yet another transfmr.

      Eric UK

[Joe Satnik]

HHRR Joe,

I just thought of something. 

Have you cleaned and lubed your loco lately?

A dirty/dry engine puts a bigger load on the power pack, causing it to work harder and heat up. 

You might hear squeaking from the engine's moving parts.

Use plastic compatible lubes only. 

I own Labelle 102, 106 and 108 lubes.   

Bachmann sells a line of lubes, but at the time I was looking (long ago) they were scarce.

Here is a link to Hunt's lube procedure:

http://www.bachmanntrains.com/home-usa/board/index.php/topic,5659.0.html 

Your power pack may still have something wrong with it, but cleaning and lubing your loco will eliminate one more thing in our troubleshooting process. 

Hope this helps.

Sincerely,

Joe Satnik     

[HHRR]

Eric and Joe,

Thanks for the information, I appreciate all the help.  Eric -- first, I tried various combinations of my main train last night, and it was OK if I only run the loco and tender by itself, and the transformer got normally warm.  I then added one lighted car, and it started to get hot after about 20 - 30 minutes, but the power went up and down, but not as often.  So, I am going to get a new transformer, and yes, I will keep the old one for lighting the buildings.
Joe -- I cleaned and lubed the 2-6-0 and all my engines around Christmas, and have done this many times in the past, not using too much grease and light oil as recommended.  I did get my grease and oils from the hobby shop. The cars wheels are free wheeling and I clean them often. You fellows cover all the angles, and it is much appreciated.

Thanks,  Joe

[railtwister]

HHRR,

I just checked both the Model Rectifier Corporation, and the Walthers website, and apparently almost everything is out of stock, possibly due to a model year change, or possible due to the Sanda Kan factory bankruptcy and subsequent purchase of same by Kader. However, there is one power pack still listed as "in stock" at Walthers, and it is on sale for only $26.95! It is the model 1300, which is their smallest power pack and is slightly better than what is found in a typical trainset, but if you only set up your On30 at Christmas, it will probably work just fine for you, especially if you use a separate supply for any accessories, such as structure lighting and switch machines. For many years, MRC Power Packs have been the standard of the industry, I still have 4 of their old Tech II #2400's and they work great some 20 years after they were discontinued in favor of a new model. You can probably find an MRC 1370 (more power than the 1300), or maybe even a Tech 4 #200, #260, or #280 still on the shelf at a local hobbyshop, or at a trainshow. These are all in the 16-20VA power range, and put out the proper DC voltage for N, HO, & On30 trains. They will be more pricey than the #1300 @ $26.95, but they are fine units and will give you many years of service.

Regards,
Bill Nielsen
Oakland Park, FL USA