track plans

[NewYorkCentralgirl]

does anyone know any good track plans for the following spaces

5 by 8
5 by 9
5 by 10

that can accomidate locomotives with centepide tenders and as large as a big boy

[Frisco]

Any-thing with 22" radius curves or larger would work. You could take one of the many 4X8 plans and expand it by broadening the curves and adding some more straight track. I would recomend 101 track plans published by Model Railroader, this book has been around since the sixties and is still published. Used copies are avalible on Amazon for as low as $3.

[Guilford Guy]

For 5x10 get 26" on the outer loop, and 24" on the inner. You can also fit a siding on the outside, while maintaining a distance of 3" from the center of the track to the table edge.

[Frisco]

How much room is there between the track and the edge of the table using 26" on a 5 foot wide table?

[Guilford Guy]

26x2=52", 60" wide fro 5ft. That's 4" when centered on the board, but if she chose to add a siding on the outer loop, she can shift the layout in inch to either side, so that there is 3" of clearance from each edge. This is from the center of the track though.

[Yampa Bob]

Track radius is measured at the center of the track.  Using EZ Track for example, which has a roadbed width of 2", (1" from center of track to edge of roadbed),  26" radius track has a diameter (total width) of 52", again measured to track center.  Add 1" on each side of the centerline gives you a total width of  52" plus 2" equals 54".

On a 60" wide table, you will then have 3" of space between the OUTSIDE edge of the road bed and the table edge.  Clear space inside the loop would be 52" minus 2" equals 50".

For the 24" inside loop, total outside width is 48" plus 2" equals 50", which will fit inside the larger loop.  However, this may create conflicts at the transition from straight to curve on the inside track, as long cars may swing out and hit cars on outside track.

Solution is to add 3" straight pieces in the 26" curves.  This makes the outside loop 57" wide, leaving 1-1/2" clearance to table edge.  2" straights would be better, but they are not available except with a crossing.

For the best symmetry on double loop layouts, use 22" with 26", or 18" with 22".  Then crossovers and run arounds will fit between the two loops. Otherwise your trains won't be able to switch tracks or have a passing siding. 

On a 9' table, there simply isn't enough length to provide a full passing siding or run around, that will accomodate a train with more than 2 or 3 cars.  You have to switch tracks, then either back onto the main, or run around to the opposite side to another crossover.  This is not realistic operation, but with selective compression you have no choice.

[Guilford Guy]

On the modules in my railroad club... we have a center spacing of 4" from the edge. As long as something won't fall off the edge of the layout when it derails(and it will) you'll be fine.

[Joe Satnik]

Track radius is measured to the centerline between the rails.

Width of a circle of track is twice radius plus a track bed width. 

2R + TBW.  HO EZ-Track is very close to 2" wide.

18"x2+2"=38"

22"x2+2"=46"

26"x2+2"=54"

28"x2+2"=58"

A 4' table is 4x12" = 48"

A 5' table is 5x12" = 60"

If I had the room for 5', there would be no choice.  My table would be 5' wide.  If you like a particular 4x8 layout, you have the option of expanding it.

Ping-pong tables are 5' wide (x 9' long).  Used ones from the "thrifties" classifieds are pretty cheap. 

Remember that you need room for overhang on curves, so you can't run your track up against a rail, fence or wall.  An inch clearance on each side will do. 

Hope this helps.

Sincerely,

Joe Satnik

[Yampa Bob]

To illustrate my previous comments on track spacing, crossovers and run arounds, here are a couple pictures of my layout design.  It took over a year to design this, because I spent 11 months looking at hundreds of plans that would work on a 4 X 8 table.  Take it from someone who's been there, it's a waste of time looking at all those layouts, which are all just variations on a basic theme.  The best you can do on a small layout is maximize running, storage, operation efficiency and simplicity.

This design uses 22" outside, 18" inside, on a 4 X 8.  If you have a 5 X 9 or longer, then you can use 26" and 22", and expand the straights, which will also lengthen the run arounds. (refer to the second picture) The layout represents a point to point covering a full scale distance of 100 miles, wrapped up into loops to fit the table, and eliminates the need for reverse loops or wyes. 

Below the crossovers are doubled up to create run arounds, which are essential to efficient freight yard operatons, yet keeping track switching for passing or meeting sidings.

Note that on this plan, my final design, I used 18" on both outside and inside loops, and added short straights at the ends of the outside loop.  This was done to reduce the "loopiness" effect of the curved ends.  All my locos and cars are very short, so 18" works well.  You could do the same thing with 22"/ 22" or 24"/24".

Note also the layout is optimized for right hand (counterclockwise) running. This maximizes the run around length near the yard.  If you prefer mostly left hand running, reverse the yard.  I added the turntable only for steam locomotives to reverse directions, it's not totally necessary for diesels which consist in any orientation. 

If the table can be expanded to 10' or even 12', each crossover can be made two way by adding a crossing. With the single crossover, running operation will always be compromised for one direction or the other.   

[ebtbob]

Good Evening All,

      I suggest you try to find the book by Iain Rice on small,  practical railroad plans.

Bob

[Jhanecker2]

kalmbach publishes a Book Title : 101  Model Track Plans for Model Railroads. It has been out for decades and is quite a read.

[NewYorkCentralgirl]

To illustrate my previous comments on track spacing, crossovers and run arounds, here are a couple pictures of my layout design.  It took over a year to design this, because I spent 11 months looking at hundreds of plans that would work on a 4 X 8 table.  Take it from someone who's been there, it's a waste of time looking at all those layouts, which are all just variations on a basic theme.  The best you can do on a small layout is maximize running, storage, operation efficiency and simplicity.

This design uses 22" outside, 18" inside, on a 4 X 8.  If you have a 5 X 9 or longer, then you can use 26" and 22", and expand the straights, which will also lengthen the run arounds. (refer to the second picture) The layout represents a point to point covering a full scale distance of 100 miles, wrapped up into loops to fit the table, and eliminates the need for reverse loops or wyes. 

Below the crossovers are doubled up to create run arounds, which are essential to efficient freight yard operatons, yet keeping track switching for passing or meeting sidings.

Note that on this plan, my final design, I used 18" on both outside and inside loops, and added short straights at the ends of the outside loop.  This was done to reduce the "loopiness" effect of the curved ends.  All my locos and cars are very short, so 18" works well.  You could do the same thing with 22"/ 22" or 24"/24".

Note also the layout is optimized for right hand (counterclockwise) running. This maximizes the run around length near the yard.  If you prefer mostly left hand running, reverse the yard.  I added the turntable only for steam locomotives to reverse directions, it's not totally necessary for diesels which consist in any orientation. 

If the table can be expanded to 10' or even 12', each crossover can be made two way by adding a crossing. With the single crossover, running operation will always be compromised for one direction or the other.   

thanks a lot for taking the time to expand and insert track plans however i dont think my niagara and my big boy/challenger will take on 18 inch curves to well due to the tender

[jsmvmd]

Dear Friends,

Dumb question, but would easements be indicated or not necessary for better ops?

Best Wishes,

Jack

[Yampa Bob]

NYCgirl:
I only posted the layout as a pictorial example.  If you will read again, I said you could use up to 26" radius curves on a 5 foot wide table to create a similar appearing layout.

Jack:
Easements are always recommended, however there's usually not enough room on small layouts like mine to use them effectively.

What many modelers fail to realize are the low speeds of real railroads in negotiating sharp curves and turnouts.  The "speed limit" for a #20 turnout, which has a divergent angle less than 3 degrees, is 45 mph, so you can imagine the real speed for a #4 turnout in HO, on the order of only 2 or 3 scale mph.  That's about 2 feet per minute in HO scale.

[Joe Satnik]

Dear jsmvmd,

The easiest psuedo-easements using EZ-Track would be:

a 33-1/4"R 18 degree section leading into a 26"R curve, and

a 35-1/2"R 18 degree section leading into a 28"R curve.

I would have to create some dandruff to figure out other radii and combos, which wouldn't be nearly as perfect as the combos above. 

Otherwise, flex-track and cork for spiral or bent stick easements.

Hope this helps. 

Sincerely,

Joe Satnik