2-10-2 disassembly

[SteamGene]

Has anybody taken the Spectrum 2-10-2 apart?  I need to get to the female plugs under the cab.
Gene

[Guilford Guy]

No, but I could... 

[SteamGene]

How?
Gene

[r.cprmier]

I did one of mine about a year ago, so it is a bit fuzzy; but there is a screw holding that board on under the cab.  If you take that out (gently-you'll see what I mean) I think-if memory serves me well, that they slide out from where there are nested.  Boy; memory's getting bad.

[SteamGene]

Rich,
Do you mean that the cab slides/pries out like the 2-6-6-2?  So remove cab, then get access to the plugs?
Gene

[r.cprmier]

Gene;
under the cab there is a small PC board held in place by one screw.  If you trake that board out-if I remember correctly-the connections are on it, held in place by plastic slip-on type retainers.  The plug leads are on that board.  I don't remember having to remove the cab, though it is hazy.

[r.cprmier]

Gene;
After thinking about it and looking under the 2-10-2 I worked on (had to replace the gearing) realized that I did indeed take the cab-as well as the body-off of the frame.  My apologies if I misled you or caused you any undue work.

Rich

[Mr.Slate]

Gene,

Mine is apart right now.  I've been replacing the couplers and LED's, and lubed the motor bearings (reduced the noise a lot).  Anyway, all you need to do is remove the three screws holding the upper cab/boiler assembly to the lower assembly.  Once the three screws are out, you can seperate the two sections.  Things will not come apart easily and you must carefully work it loose.  There is a piece of electrical tape securing the motor which binds things up a bit.  Once you have the two assemblies apart, you have clear access to the circuit card and plugs.

By the way, while you have things open, take a look at the area just forward of the motor.  There is a large area with nothing but air between the lower and upper frames that can easily accomodate and ounce or two of additional weight that will sit dirrectly above the 2nd driver.  I added some weights to boost its pulling power.

Jim

[ta152h0]

Found this on the bachmann USA site

http://www.bachmanntrains.com/home-usa/dwg/dwgs/H833X-IS001.PDF

[Yampa Bob]

I just looked at the diagram for the loco.  That's a lot of parts, 5 pages no less.  The quality of the pdf is excellent. 

I doubt if I will ever have one of these, but d/l the pdf anyway for reference.

Bob

[SteamGene]

Jim,
Where are the three screws?  The diagram doesn't show them.  I've found two "holes" under the cab which may have screws in them, but I'm not sure and that accounts for only two screws.  I'm assuming the screws between the drivers hold the plate to the frame and should be left alone.
Gene

[ta152h0]

I see three screws under the chassis, next to tle last panel.above the tender diagram/

[SteamGene]

Okay.  Remove pilot and trailing truck.  There are two screws under the cab and one under the pilot truck.  They seem to have star screws, not Phillips.  I got them out, but I'll see if I have a star screwdriver that fits better when I reassemble. 
There are six wires, none color coded which slip into a hole and then are held in place by a black plastic cap.  I've managed to swap two so far.  Slow work.
Yes, there is plenty of space for extra weight up front.  I just wonder what it will do for the balance.
Gene

[SteamGene]

One ounce added up front and 1/4 in the rear, back together, decoder (Bachmann) installed again and it runs.  I haven't tested it yet for pulling power.
Gene

[Mr.Slate]

Gene,

Did you test the pullin gpower before adding weight?  I'd be curious to hear about a comparison.  I added weight to mine before pulling a train, so I don't know how much it helped.  I'm just going with the heavy is better rule.

Jim