Double Track Curves

[kybaugh]

I am constructing a layout in our 30' x 40' attic.  I would like to run a double track main line around the perimeter of this space but not sure how to handle the curves.

Is it possible to bend / tweak the Bachmann curve track a little bit to increase the radius so the outside main line is concentric with the standard inside main line curve?

I don't want to use brass track from other manufacturers unless there is just no other way. 

Surely, someone here has solved this problem before.  Thanks in advance.
Kybaugh.

[altterrain]

No way to change Bachmann track diameter. It will kink trying to bend it (it's hollow). You could insert straight sections with the curves to make it bigger. Here's a pic of my indoor holiday set up with Bachmann track on the inside and Aristo 8' diameter on the outside -



-Brian

[Paul W.]

I have a suspended double track system in the basement. I use the factory Bachmann track. Since all Bachmann curves are the same, I just added some straight track on the width and length to allow them to pass without hitting. Bachmann track can be cut to come up with half lengths, but you have to be careful not to collapse the hollow track. I also soldered all the cut joints together from the underside.
I also added a siding on one side to park another train, and I learned a lesson with this. I used the Bachmann turnout going right, then connected a curve directly to it going left, the 10 wheelers can't handle that sharp "S" turn. The cars manage it, as well as the Porter, but if I want the 10 wheeler sitting there, I place it there for looks. I have that section of track insulated so power is not a concern.

Good luck

[glennk28]

you could alternate straight sections with the curved ones, but I think that in the long run you will be happier with wider-radius track--the factory track will severely limit your choice of locomotives.  gj

[Phil Stump]

You might as well bite the bullitt and get the track you want . You know you will end up there anyway. why wast time and resourses trying to avoid the inevitable?   Have fun   Phil

[Joe Satnik]

Dear Kybaugh,

I found that setting up concentric ovals with Bachmann track you need 1 and 1/2 straights more on each of the 4 sides of the outer oval.  1 straight would cause overhang crashes, and 2 straights made the outside oval look way too large. 

I cut two straights in half to get the needed four half straights, using rubber bands around the end ties to hold the track sections together. 

Terry Toenges bought a 90 degree crossing to get the four included "uncut" half straights for this purpose. (No track cutting or rubber bands needed.)

It is possible to build a siding without "S" curves.

Three 30 degree curves in a row make a 90 degree "corner".   

Instead of a regular curve, make the last (third) curve of your corner the curved portion of your turnout, with the points end of the turnout connected to curve 2.    This curved route will be the "inside mainline".   

The "outside siding" is built off the straight route of the turnout.   Add a curve to the straight route in the same direction as your curved route.  You may need to add straight length between the straight route and the added curve to gain enough centerline spacing between the main and siding to avoid overhang crashes.

I will attempt to show this with ascii characters.   Straight route top, curved route bottom.   
_________
/----------\ 

Hope this helps.

Feel free to e-mail or call.

Sincerely,

Joe Satnik 

 

[Tom Lapointe]

I don't want to use brass track from other manufacturers unless there is just no other way.

- Considering what an outer curve of alternating R1-curves-&-straights is going to look like (NOT very realistic! ), you may want to reconsider.

Here's what wide-radius parallel curves look like on my garden railroad:



- I should also add I'm not finished with this area yet; since that photo was taken , the "gaps" between the HDPE roadbed sections have been covered over with permeable ground-cover cloth, in anticipation of ballasting this coming season.     This is all sectional, NOT flex track, by the way.  (Aristo 12.5-foot diameter, 80" radius, for the outer curve; 11.5-foot diameter, 69" radius for the middle track; and the mine spur the Climax is sitting on a combination of 11.5 - foot & 8-foot curves to allow space for the R3 radius turnout).

I'll also admit this track was purchased long before the recent Aristo brass track price increases  (most of what you're seeing is Aristo; the turnouts are LGB).  SInce you're building an INDOOR layout, you might want to consider purchasing used track; a bit of time spent cleaning  & installing new rail joiners would probably give you a better-running railroad than the Bachmann tubular steel track.                                  Tom

[gbbari]

Kybaugh,

Bachmann track is well -suited for the beginner or an indoor single line layout with sharp R1 curves. Bachmann does not focus on track for more elaborate and /or outdoor layouts - it's obviously not their desire to participate in that market. What they do, they do well.  But my grandmother used to say, "you can't make a silk purse out of a sow's ear". 

The lowest cost way to accomplish your layout goals (have truly concentric curves) is with flex track - i.e., bend your own.  It is not difficult - you mark the centerline of the curves (you can make whatever radius you want) down on the benchwork, and then bend the rails to match.  Some mfrs offer plastic tie strips into which you slide the rails, others offer wooden ties (more realistic and maybe a bit easier, even if a bit more time-consuming).  You can even make your own wooden ties dirt-cheap out of scrap wood and then spike the rails onto them.  You can make compound radius curves, transition curves, and they all will look much smoother than with sectional track.  Plus you can stagger the rail joints on either side just like the prototype.  If you use Code 332 or 250 rail, you can easily mate the rail up to manufactured turnouts and crossing diamonds as well.

Suggest you do a bit of research into large scale track mfrs and discover what's out there - you may be surprised how the cost per foot is not as bad as you may be thinking. For an indoor layout - I suggest its the lowest cost way unless you find a quantity of used 45mm track.  Some of the more popular flex track /  rail / tie / accessory mfrs are: Llagas Creek, Sunset Valley, MicroEngineering, Artistocraft.  Then there are some pricey European brands if you want to get exotic. 

Have Fun
AL

[Paul W.]

Joe,
Your tip on the siding makes really good sence! We have been thinking of adding on a third loop, and your tip would make the sidings work out well.
Thank you!

Kybaugh,
It really depends on how much you want to spend. Bachmann track is able to be picked up really cheap on ebay, and as long as you don't put it outside (or in a damp area) it's fine. We have a dehumidifier in the basement, and have never had rust issues. As for carrying current, I haven't had a problem and I've run it now for over 5 years. I am slowly collecting brass track for our future outdoor layout, but the steel track and all metal wheels has worked out fine for me. It also depends on how big of a train you wish to run, if you ever plan on getting a "K", you'll need much wider curves than what Bachmann offers.
If you are watching pennies and just plan on running a 10wheeler, 2 truck Shay, or Porter, you'll be fine with Bachmann track. But if you plan on getting into the larger 1:20.3 stuff, go with wider curves right from the start.

[Joe Satnik]

Dear Paul,

Thanks for the kind words.  Glad I could help. 

Now, if you really wanted to make things interesting, put sidings on all four sides of the room.  Controlling 4 or 5  trains at once, in and out of the sidings, would be a challenge.

Sincerely,

Joe Satnik