Bachmann Northern 4-8-4 3783 (#58152) Chassis Separation

[grahament]

Can someone confirm that in order to separate the two halves of the chassis on this loco and get to the motor you remove the 3 philips screws and pry it apart? Is there anything else holding it together?

Thanks.

[richg]

Does the below diagram show you anything?

http://www.bachmanntrains.com/home-usa/dwg/dwgs/N821X-IS001.PDF

Rich

[grahament]

I'm troubleshooting another problem. The loco is making a noticeable "chugging" noise with a definite vertical wobble. Its as if something is out of balance or alignment. I have lubed very well the connecting rods, wheel cover off and gears well lubed. I wanted to oil the motor bearing but I don't think that's it. Any offers? Thanks 

[James in FL]

Check the traction tires are seated properly on your #3 driver.

First, remove both the forward and rear trucks.
Take a good look at the position of the running gear on either sides' orientation of the wheels to each other and position of the wheels relative to the opposite side. If doing this for the first time take a picture, if you can, of each side before you open the halves.
Remove the bottom cover, then take those 3 screws out.
Be mindful of gravity when you open it.
Unless the motor bearing is squealing, save the oil.
Remove the motor, clean the worm, and remove the main drive gear, leave everything else.
Reassemble the chassis halves sans motor and gear.
This is the tricky part, get your wheels back in the chassis just as they were when you opened it, those pictures can pay off here. Get your quartering perfect 90 degrees.
Roll the wheels with your fingers, if there is a bind you will feel it, you will be able to see which driver is binding and where in the rotation it happens.
Don't be shy; these lokies are among the easiest to work on as far as steamers go. They are somewhat basic and primitive but well functioning smooth runners and super pullers when right.
I've had some "chug" or "lope" out of the box, but settle down quite nicely.
Put some hours on it before you open it.
Let us know what you find.

Good luck

[grahament]

Many thanks for the replies. I have done more since my posting and, James in FL, I agree with what you say below


"Take a good look at the position of the running gear on either sides' orientation of the wheels to each other and position of the wheels relative to the opposite side. If doing this for the first time take a picture, if you can, of each side before you open the halves."

"This is the tricky part, get your wheels back in the chassis just as they were when you opened it, those pictures can pay off here. Get your quartering perfect 90 degrees."

I have taken the wheels out many times to clean the axles and axle pockets for good contact...as well as careful greasing of the gear wheels. When I say "take out" I did not remove the front pistons so the wheel set is really just pulled out of the way, not totally separated. I think I have not paid enough attention in the past as to how the wheels go back. I think I had them offset i.e. the running gear or conn rods were not symmetrical on both sides. There is enough play or tolerance for this to happen, I think. This time I was very careful how I put them back and made sure the rods were in exactly the same configuration on both sides of the loco.

It's running much better now and so far so good.

I have had several issues with this loco but have been able to work through them. Overall I like it and think it has been worth the effort.

I never did separate the chassis halves; the motor is running very smoothly and did not want to have trouble getting it back together.

Cheers,

[James in FL]

Good to hear.
These are fun lokies, both to tinker with, and to run.
They will run like a spectrum if you add tender pick-ups.

Hopefully Bachmann will see fit to spectrumize this loco with a new shell and tender.