Completed Fleet of 0-6-0s

[jonathan]

Just finished my fourth 0-6-0.  Some folks can't stop collecting the Connies... my obsession is the 0-6-0.

This was a UP #4439 (DCC) I purchased from The Favorite Spot.  Let's say my winning bid was about the price of a basic decoder.  Every once in a while, I'll bid ridiculously low on an item, and I'll actually win.  Go figure...






No engineer, yet.  Will find one at the next train show.


Ran out of tender pick up trucks.  Used some scrap brass to fashion a reasonable facsimile:


Making the valve gear hangar look a little more prototypical, is no easy task.  The clearance between crosshead and front of the eccentric rod is rather tight.


This is the T-Nut I use to share current between tender and locomotive:


I put extra weight everywhere:  the domes, the stack and even the cab roof.


This was fun, AND it runs well.

Regards,

Jonathan

[jward]

have you installed a decoder in any of these? if so which decoder did you use?

[jonathan]

jward,

Three of the locos came with decoders on board, so they have a slimmer Bachmann decoder.  Don't know how long they've been doing it, but a good portion of the 0-6-0s now come DCC.  Pretty cool.

My reverse lights are not attached to the decoder.  So, when running DCC the reverse lights stay on all the time.  They have resistors to allow for the higher voltage.  Reverse lights work normally while running DC (my home layout).

Regards,

Jonathan

[beampaul7]

Superb, as usual, Jonathan.  I have wanted to thank you for a long time for your posting of the 2-8-0 disasembly sequence and all the photgraphs.  I've copyed it on photo paper for when I become brave enough to open one up.  Your're work is always outstanding and much appreciated.                                                                                                                                                  Paul

[jonathan]

Paul,

It has been my pleasure.  You are certainly welcome. I like to share, especially if I think it will be helpful to others.

Speaking of sharing, here is a video of the 3 DCC locos hard at work.  The helper (last) is the newest one.  If you look closely, you migh see a sparkle off the rear markers on the tender.  I went a little overboard with the jewels.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7v6qBlvIE6k&feature=youtu.be

As usual, apologies for the fuzzy video from my camera.  I have a birthday coming soon, and I've asked the powers-that-be for something a little nicer for close ups and videos.  Fingers crossed...

Regards,

Jonathan

[on30gn15]

Hi, am back after doing less stuff in trains for a while.
So, here just shy of a year later ...

Just finished my fourth 0-6-0.  Some folks can't stop collecting the Connies... my obsession is the 0-6-0.

If there were more fairly inexpensive 0-8-0 that would be mine.

Hey, Jonathan, question for ya here almost a year later:
Just ordered the PRR 0-6-0 with DCC - according to photo on page 21 in book Pennsy Power by Alvin Staufer, (c)1962, the USRA 0-6-0 which PRR had and called Class B28, had outside valve gear, Baker type; the Bachamnn model comes with no valve gear.
Even though the models with it are the wrong type, got any idea, or experience, on adding the valve gear "after the fact"?

Couple days ago finally tried the front coupler idea on the old SAL 0-6-0 I have, was mostly successful at it.

Another question, chances of success at moving headlight off top of smokebox to bracket in front of it, like this http://www.northeast.railfan.net/images/prr7055s.jpg

[jonathan]

on30gn15,

I have only messed with valve gear on old metal models.

However,  the 0-6-0 shells are universal.  You could take your Pennsy shell and put it on a Bachmann 0-6-0 mechanism that has the valve gear.  That's how I would do it. Usually 0-6-0s can be found pretty cheap on fleabay.

I move headlights from the front-center of the smokebox to the high point.  I see no reason why one couldn't do the reverse. They'll be some filling in, sanding, and painting involved once you pull off the upper headlight.  I tend to put a 3mm LED directly in the back of the headlight cans.  Some work with very small parts is involved, but it can be done.

The older 0-6-0s used a conventional bulb.  The new ones use an LED. With a new one, you'll have to make sure there is a resistor still in the headlight connection somewhere.

The trick with the 0-6-0 is how the light is mounted on the front of the frame. Once you get the little mounting bracket pulled from the frame, there won't be much wire to play with.  Good soldering will be key, along with the smallest shrink tubing you can find.  

The frame halves are 'live'.  There is current flowing through them. That has advantages and disadvantages.  

As a B&O fan, I tend to keep headlights up on top.  

The DCC versions of the 0-6-0 are pretty clever.  They do run better than the DC versions (with added pick up), AND the headlight does not flicker.

Regards,

Jonathan

Addendum

Here is what the light looks like in the frame.  You can pull it out and rewire for a bulb/LED attached to the front of the smokebox:


Just has a helpful hint:
Notice how the LED leads go from the back of the headlight, then through the smokebox:

[ryeguyisme]

I like the change in headlight placement, I bet that changed the whole overall look of the engine. Not many people realize how changed details can completely change the way it looks.

[on30gn15]

Hey y'all;

Ahh, thanks for the pictures, most helpful.

Was delivered yesterday - it has the valve gear after all!  

On and off during evening it got mold seams on boiler filed and sanded; unusually for what's typically been down with steamer shells it was molded in white plastic.
Then repainted to my tastes - it is staying PRR - it's just that the Pennsylvania RR  "Brunswick Green" - is so dark that if it wasn't sitting right next to black you wouldn't know it wasn't black. I lightened up the paint quite a bit to suit my tastes.
Also, just for fun, painted boiler jacket a dark gunmetal color.
Hoping to get gloss coated and then Microscale decals on today.

Going to make it 9 on Easy Command - so will give it a 4 digit road number ending in 9.

On the mounting 3mm LED in h/l can, that I have done with some IHC steamers.
The intimidating part is not somehow messing up the decoder.

And while we're talking lights and decoders-->

Your thoughts on getting a working backup light in the tender?
Note - I've never messed around with hooking up decoders; or hooking anything to decoders, before; bought one for a WM 44-tonner but haven't dove in to those waters yet.

--> another question, mainline on our club layout has some Atlas #8 turnouts at crossovers - insulated frog probably as long as 0-6-0's wheelbase - do you foresee or even imagine any problems which might come up with trying to add pickup from tender trucks to DCC model?

Was going to ask if it would be workable to remove smoke unit and switch since we don't need for health reasons to be using the smoke at home & ditching the switch would allow for backhead detailing.
Then the though happened that, hey, can use smoke on our club's layout, especially on open house days like tomorrow.

Inclined to eventually build an entirely new pilot with good KD coupler mount.
But not this week.

[on30gn15]

Had a momentary panic during break in run on small oval on kitchen table - loco stopped dead and started buzzing. Uh-oh, did decoder fry? No, much less traumatic, crankpin screw front left driver had worked loose and jammed with crosshead. Whew!

Oh, but they (umm, that was supposed to be 'by the way') way, that thing will do an 11 inch radius curve. (test track oval is left over from doing traction) The old DC only SAL one will do 9in R. Expect it is the new style pickups which limit the modern DCC one.

[jonathan]

If you perform a search under my name and "0-6-0", you should find some photos and description on how to add tender pick up to these babies.  All you need is some brass stock, metal wheels and wire.  It has no ill effect on the decoder.  All my turnout frogs are dead and these locomotives do not hesitate through them.  If you need more pix, I can provide them.

As my home layout is DC, I tapped into track power for the reverse light.  On DCC the reverse lights stay on all time.  If I were to go DCC only, I would give some thought on using the smoke unit wires.  They come off the decoder and I don't run smoke so...  I don't recall if there was an extra wire not used by the decoder, but that may also be a possibility.

Another tip:  The main drive gear "hump" under the locomotive hangs a bit low and can catch divergent rails, rerailers and the like.  I filed just a skosh off the bottom of the hump, think 1/64" or less.

Regards,

Jonathan

[Doneldon]

Was going to ask if it would be workable to remove smoke unit and switch since we don't need for health reasons to be using the smoke at home & ditching the switch would allow for backhead detailing.
Then the though happened that, hey, can use smoke on our club's layout, especially on open house days like tomorrow.

On30-

Be careful with the smoke on your club layout. Those mainlines tend to be a lot longer than at home and someone else may wind up
operating your locomotive. If the smoke fluid runs out while your loco is on the other side of the mountains there's a good chance the
heater will be burned out by the time it comes back into view.

                                                                                                    -- D

[on30gn15]

Hi;

True, things to pay attention to. Here our HO layout in our little country burg of population 8,200 is modular in square of only 20-something by 20 something, roughly a lap of one scale mile around. And usually you drive your own train.
(besides, nobody jacks around with my stuff anyway - I own 37 of the 55 freight cars on the layout and 16 feet worth of modules - the ones with the passing siding   )

Ran PRR 0-6-0 with several drops of fluid in the tub, element appeared to glow a bit, hard to tell against backwash from headlight bulb, after 5 miles still no smoke. No smoke all day. I don't know. biggest event with the smoke was the fluid spilled out when I took off layout then laid loco on side to paint cab window frames.    Ooops.

Here's what she looks like on club layout the morning after being finished with getting repainted to my tastes in PRR's colors. Still plenty of detail bits to add bit by bit. Cylinders not yet painted as they served as a handle during painting. Don't know for sure if window frames would have actually been red, oh well, pleases me.


Compare to factory stock paint and lettering http://www.bachmanntrains.com/home-usa/products.php?act=viewProd&productId=3356

Update - Not happy with window frames, paint scraped off both because finish was uneven and lumpy and for use of less glaring red this time. Body removed so spilled smoke fluid could be cleaned out, what a mess. And smoke unit and switch are no longer part of the system and backhead is clear for detailing in the future.

[electrical whiz kid]

Jonathan;
Hi.  Regarding that turntable.  Has there ever been a deck type turntable sconstructed anywhere?  BTW, great job on your locos, and the weathering job on that deck (Oh, and also; was it wood or Timber-trex?)
Rich C. 

[ryeguyisme]

Jonathan;
Hi.  Regarding that turntable.  Has there ever been a deck type turntable sconstructed anywhere?  BTW, great job on your locos, and the weathering job on that deck (Oh, and also; was it wood or Timber-trex?)
Rich C. 

Deck turntable are frequently seen on trolley lines and lines that deal with heavy snow.