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On30 Gas Mechanical sound decoder installation

Started by shushu, February 16, 2012, 01:55:37 PM

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shushu

Hi,
I have a On30 Gas Mechanical DCC equipped.  I am planning to install the sound decoder SoundTraxx TSU-750 with speaker in On30 Gas Mechanical.   Where can I find these parts and the instruction how to do it in detail? 

Thank you. :)

shushu

Is there anyone who installed the same parts and answer my question?   I found the sheet that shows how to use dummy plug.   What is the purpose to use the dummy plug? ???
Please.

mabloodhound

I've never done this but you can Google your question and a number of answers come up.   One of them suggests using a Loksound decoder because it has more accurate sound.   Also, you might look at using an exciter instead of a speaker....takes less room and no enclosure is required.   The new Bachmann Porters come with the exciter and sound every bit as good.
8)
Dave Mason

D&G RR (Dunstead & Granford) in On30
"In matters of style, swim with the current;
in matters of principle, stand like a rock."   Thos. Jefferson

The 2nd Amendment, America's 1st Homeland Security

RGS Goose

Hi Mabloodhound,
Your comment about using an exciter aroused my interest.
I haven't got to getting a sound fitted Porter yet, but it will come. In the meantime can you tell me if it is possible to get an exciter, and, if so, where, and then where does one look for the info. needed to install it?
I think it would be a good option for my 2 Gas Mechanicals also, if it is possible.
RGS Goose.

shushu

Thank you for information.   
How about dummy plug?     Is there anyone can answer this question?  There is a small sheet of paper shows how to use dummy plug in PCB.    Mr. Bachmann,  do you see my post?  Is there any electric diagram of PCB we can refer?

smokinporter

Ive done this install, but used a MRC "Sound Bug" and it does a good job. The speaker comes with the bug, and installs in the roof. (got to make a small slice in the cab for speaker) mount the sound chip in the front of the motor box.
I know, some will say "but that's a diesel sound"  OK so it is , but with some research I found the gas engine wasn't all that good and when the gas engine got tired and needed to be replaced most owners put in the "Caterpillar" D17000 engine a non supercharged engine. and it worked very well.
If you want the gas engine sound then maybe the "Lok Sound" with the "Galloping Goose" sound, and I believe you can get that chip in a micro-size as well. I have the whole picture spread when I did the install and you are more than welcome to get hold of me so I can email you the file.
I hope that helps and good luck with your quest.
Cheers,
Wes  aka smokinporter

MRRSparky

I used a LokSound 3.5 decoder (full-size) because they had a pre-programmed sound for a side-rod Diesel, where you can hear the clanking.  The advantage of the LokSound is that there is no capacitor to try to locate, and the decoder is thinner than the Tsunami.  No need to spend the extra dollars for a mini-version.

Anyways, that decoder's speaker is a good fit when affixed to the inside of the radiator grille.  There is sufficient room to glue the decoder above the motor against the shell.  I drilled/cut out the plastic grille and replaced it with brass screen wire from Clover House.  No need for a sound box as the shell accomplishes that.  Sound goes out the front, back pressure goes out the bottom through the drivers.

As sound installations go, this was a simple one with good room.

Steve Magee

I followed MRRsparky's install, but I used the Loksound micro as it can then fit above the motor, with the speaker and baffle glued to the inside of the radiator surrounds (grill cut out and replaced with brass mesh from a source I have forgotten - might have been from a fuel filter). Leaves cab free for  driver, detailing etc. And I used a Caterpillar diesel sound file from the ESU sound list. Sounds OK, I envisage that the gas engine was replaced with a diesel.

Steve Magee
Newcastle NSW Aust

MRRSparky

I tried my suggestion of using .008" phosphor bronze wire pickup on the trailing truck and I couldn't make it work reliably.  Either one side or the other did not have continuity from the rail to the pickup wire, or the wheel set skidded along the rail when I had the pickup wires positioned for good continuity.  And that was after adding lead weight to the trailing truck frame.  Good idea - bad follow through.