Climax Problems

[Kasman727]

I just bought a DCC ready Climax NIB, but an older model.  When I attempt to run it on my track it sits and "buzzes" with both headlights on.  It has no decoder.  Do I need to run it in DC mode in order to get it to work?

[ChrisS]

It won't work in dcc mode without a decoder
As it comes from bachmann it should have a shorting plug in place
Of the decoder so it can be run on dc.

[railtwister]

Actually, if you have a Digitrax or Lenz system, you should be able to test run a DC (analog) loco using address "00". Just be advised that it isn't recommended to run a loco on this setting for any extended time due to overheating issues, and allowing the loco to sit idle on this setting may actually be worse than running it. This control feature is not enabled on MRC or NCE systems, so if you have one of these you'll need to install a decoder before you can test run the loco.

Bill in FL

[Kasman727]

Thanks for the replies.  I will try to test run in DC mode to see if it is fully funtional.  anyone know if Bachmann sells a decoder for the Climax separately?

[az2rail]

If Bachmann does'nt, others do.

Bruce

[caddy54]

i have three climax locos,two that keep  losing the grip on the shafts at the universals. i have tried super glue at these points without success. is there another solution. also.none of these like the climb on my switchback layout;not enough traction,need a solution.

[brownbr]

I opened a brand new Climax today and had the same slipping problem near the universal joint.  The female part that attaches to the truck is cracked...on both trucks.  Sad for a brand new locomotive.  I sent Bmann a service notice/complaint a few minutes ago.  But here is what I am thinking.  A brass ring made from tubing of the right diameter and cut to length.  Maybe around 1/16" but I haven't measured it yet.  I think if this was pressed onto the part the crack wouldn't be able to expand the part causing slippage.

Thoughts?

[RGS Goose]

Hi brownbr,
I can assure you your idea of using a piece of tube over the split gear, or universal coupling, will work very well.
I have had problems with components splitting on a number of models, and as I am in Australia, it is not easy to get replacements. I have used K&S aluminium tube to put a small sleeve over the hub of the split part, as the aluminium has a little bit of give (strechability) as you force the ring on. Fortunately K&S do a tube that is the ideal size for this job. Be sure to force the ring on square, and use a tiny bit of good quality super glue in the split, and on the hub as you put the ring on.
I also use a TINY amount of super glue on the shaft as I put the split part back on. This lot of super glue is best put in the hole in the part, not on the shaft. This allows the excess glue to be pushed out the end, rather than along the shaft and into the bearing, where it will cause you more headaches.
This not a particularly difficult job, so hopefully you can solve your problems this way.
RGS Goose.

[Stevelewis]

I opened a brand new Climax today and had the same slipping problem near the universal joint.  The female part that attaches to the truck is cracked...on both trucks.  Sad for a brand new locomotive.  I sent Bmann a service notice/complaint a few minutes ago.  But here is what I am thinking.  A brass ring made from tubing of the right diameter and cut to length.  Maybe around 1/16" but I haven't measured it yet.  I think if this was pressed onto the part the crack wouldn't be able to expand the part causing slippage.

Thoughts?

The  retail law  here in the  UK  is  such that  a  faulty  item  such as  you have  received,  MUST be   refunded in full including   'out of pocket' expenses  for  returing the item. Or  a replacement can be  accepted if this is OK with the buyer. of course it may be different in the USA, but personally I would not keep a faulty NEW item.

[JerryB]

The  retail law  here in the  UK  is  such that  a  faulty  item  such as  you have  received,  MUST be   refunded in full including   'out of pocket' expenses  for  returing the item. Or  a replacement can be  accepted if this is OK with the buyer. of course it may be different in the USA, but personally I would not keep a faulty NEW item.

Consumer protection laws vary somewhat state by state here in the U.S., but the bottom legal line is similar to the UK.

The real fact is that I have never had any place of business, on-line or brick & mortar, refuse to take something (train related or not) that doesn't work back. In fact Bachmann Trains, our host here, normally recommends that something that is defective when taken out of the box be returned to the dealer it was purchased from, either for replacement or refund.

Bachmann also is very good about honoring their warranty. They do require some minimum proof of purchase and that the item be purchased from a Bachmann dealer. They try to avoid unreasonable warranty claims on items bought off Ebay, where virtually everything is advertised as "new," "rare," "never run,"or some other description that is not able to be verified. Even then, Bachmann will try to help with repair of non-dealer purchases, but they charge for that.

I assume the OP, "brownbr" is aware of all this, but seems to want to fix it himself. He didn't mention returing it to the dealer, so perhaps it is a non-dealer purchase and is not covered by warranty. Of course gluing bits to it will probably void any factory warranty.

Happy RRng,

Jerry

[brownbr]

I was looking for a fix because I have contacted BMann customer care who referred me to parts who has yet to reply to my inquiry.  I sent them my receipt from the online store I purchased it from.  Hopefully they will reply.  I am very frustrated.

[ChrisS]

Wanna get rid of it?

[brownbr]

Thanks for the offer but no.  I want to replace/repair it.

[S. Calloway]

brownbr,   Continue to try and get through to them, From my understanding, they ,Bachmann,Have had alot of trouble with all the geared models they offer. I have several of the rod engines,4-6-0s, and have never had one bit of trouble out of them. They are smooth as silk. I would love to see them produce a larger shay, but I hope they fix all the problems they are having first!!  Good luck to you!!

[dmolavi]

Hi brownbr,
I can assure you your idea of using a piece of tube over the split gear, or universal coupling, will work very well.
I have had problems with components splitting on a number of models, and as I am in Australia, it is not easy to get replacements. I have used K&S aluminium tube to put a small sleeve over the hub of the split part, as the aluminium has a little bit of give (strechability) as you force the ring on. Fortunately K&S do a tube that is the ideal size for this job. Be sure to force the ring on square, and use a tiny bit of good quality super glue in the split, and on the hub as you put the ring on.
I also use a TINY amount of super glue on the shaft as I put the split part back on. This lot of super glue is best put in the hole in the part, not on the shaft. This allows the excess glue to be pushed out the end, rather than along the shaft and into the bearing, where it will cause you more headaches.
This not a particularly difficult job, so hopefully you can solve your problems this way.
RGS Goose.

What diameter tubing are you using? Also, does this require the removal of the driveshaft from the truck?  I have 2 Climaxes with this problem and would like to get them repaired ASAP (and I will be going to the TCA show in York next week, so that's the perfect place to get the materials/tools needed).