Sectional Layout - quick take down / re-assembe of a layout

[OkieRick]

Here's the score.  I have a 4'x8' section and room for a 4'x5' -if- it an be taken down and stored temporarily very easy.  I'm not worried about track wiring but I do need some ideas on "quick release" track connectors.  I'm planning on a 4x8 with the 4x5 as a stubby L shape.  I want to place my turn table and switch yard on the 4x5 section and have a loop around the outside the yard / table from the 4x8.

Kwik-connects anyone?  I'm open for ideas.

Thanks-
Rick

[Tylerf]

If you are using normal flex or sectional track then I would suggest the "butt" joints. Basically run two flat top screws rail width apart then lay the track and soldier the rails to the screw tops to keep the rails in position perminantly and prevent bending and shifting. If done acuratly this method is a huge time saver.

[Yampa Bob]

You could use conventional rail joiners for alignment, but suggest soldering on jumper wire disconnects.

Polarized quick-disconnects are available from most auto suppy stores.

http://www.carparts.com/Trailer-Wiring-Harness/GP_2004473_N__10618.car

[OkieRick]

I'll have to use caution to align the two sides for unjoining or re-joining - I am using sectional and Flex track and plan on using rail joiners each time.  Guides of some kind will have to be used.


This plug, Bob, if ordered in 4pin, could rejoin both power to the track and power to the one or two re-power places on the removable section.  And power any lights.


         


I haven't been intamate with automobiles or trailer wiring (except hankering for '73 CUDAs and '59 Cadillacs - two-door convertible El Dorados) since I cracked my neck.  I'd never thought of such a plug.  I put on a dozen or so sets of hydraulic activated brakes for horse & stock trailers but that was long ago - '68ish.

Thanks guys-
Rick

[Jim Banner]

It strikes me that you will also want to have the tables accurately aligned when you set them up.  This will make sure your butt jointed tracks line up correctly.  One easy way of doing this is to hinge the tables together with sturdy butt hinges, the kind you find on the doors in houses.  When you want to take the tables apart, you simple pull the pins.  When you want to put them back together exactly aligned as they were before, you mate the hinges and shove in the pins.  It helps if you install the hinges before installing the tracks, or at least, those tracks that have to meet at the joint.  It is much easier to install the tracks dead accurate when the hinges are already there than it is to install the hinges dead accurate when the rails are already there.

If your 4 x 8 table is low enough and the ceiling is high enough, you could also use the hinges to swing the 4 x 5 to a vertical position when you need the space temporarily and do not want to take the layout apart completely.  If that sounds appealing, just make sure that the centers of the hinge pins are above the tops of your rails and scenery.

Soldering the rails to the heads of flathead brass screws at the edges of the tables is a good idea.  It also helps if you file the insides of the rail heads at a 45^o angle both horizontally and vertically to avoid any edges where wheels could catch.  Not much needs to be filed off, no more than 1/32".