EZ Track Switches

[CB_Fan]

Hi!  I'm new to the forum.  Although I do have a small N-scale layout, built about 30 years ago (so that's the technology I'm familiar with), I'm primarily into O gauge now.  But, in helping a 6th grader set up his EZ-Track layout today I ran into some problems that one of you might be able to help me with.

We note that changing the switch direction also affects electical current flow (my old Pecos are similar).  We finally got a locomotive running around a loop by aligning the switches with the loop.  We were also able to run the locomotive into a passing siding by aligning the switch that direction (the electrical connection was on the main loop, past the switch).  But we were not able to get the locomotive to exit the opposite side of the passing siding no matter which direction we turned the exit switch.

Next we moved the electrical connection to the passing siding, and the locomotive easily ran around the passing siding completing that loop -- but it would not exit the main line when it reached the exit switch.

We also had problems when we made two connections to the main loop -- were not getting any power to the track, even though we reversed the connections one at a time.

I'll take my meter over tomorrow and see if we can figure it out, but I would appreciate some words of advice about what we are seeing -- and perhaps information as to a reference booklet that might explain the operation better.  (The instructions I found on the Bachman site are very brief and do not cover this.)

Thanks for any help you may give!

[CB_Fan]

Writing the note above helped me figure out what was going on -- I think.  I'll check it out tomorrow and get back on the forum if it doesn't work.

[GlennW]

The Bachman EZtrack turnouts are power routing. So if you, put your power leads at the bottom of the Y, the power should go in the same direction as the turnout. In a loop, it's possible to have a bad connection at the other end??

I'd suggest you run a lead to the opposite side of the loop, providing a fresh power drop about every 3 feet or so. That can lessen power drops from bad connections, loose rail joiners, or having junk in the joiner. Take care for each & every joint to be a good one.

Trix used to make a nifty power connector, but you can make one with a bulb & some gator clips. Your meter will be very useful in checking & finding bad connections.

[ftauss]

Of the 4 switches I bought 2 at least had the insides reversed. There is a fairly simple mechanism inside that is supposed to throw the points and direct the current flow at the same time. In both cases the X shaped bar that directed current flow threw in the opposite direction from th points. In one case in shut down the entire track when set.

Flip it over, take out the 3 screws CAREFULLY remove the plate. There's a geared ar that has the nub that sticks out the top, a round gear that has a hole in it that fits over a nub on the bar that controls the points and that meshes with the cross that directs the current. You'll have to look at it and figure out how it's incorrect and adjust the round gear. The bar that has the spring wire that controls the points is very lame. I do not feel that it holds the points against the stock rails very tightly. Consequently the points get picked fairly easily and causes derailments regularly. I'm not sure how to fix this yet, though I've heard people suggest a heavier spring wire.

Don't bother calling Bachmann, they reccomend buying new ones if you've had them more than 90 days. Gee, thanks. Throw $20 in the trash and try again.

Frank