Need help selecting best track pieces for On30 2-6-0

[mbeau]

Hi there,

New to the forums, so please forgive my beginner-level knowledge. I'm looking at buying this locomotive: https://shop.bachmanntrains.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=487_673_679&products_id=6465

I'm trying to replicate the Virginia & Truckee Tahoe train in On30 scale, and this seems to be a good choice. I'm a little lost however in terms of what track, controller, power source, etc. to buy. I might not need a full DCC setup since I'm just running this in a circle around a Christmas tree this year. Do I need DCC to generate various steam sounds and whistles though?

I'm also going to be model building some downtown Truckee buildings for my layout, and would like to power some lights inside of them at some stage. Am I right to assume that those lights won't run on DCC power, but their own source?

Any advice is greatly appreciated!

Mike

[Len]

While it will operate on 18" radius track, slightly larger is better. I have a straight DC version of the loco running on Trix R515 curves, roughly 20-1/4" radius, and it runs a lot smoother. while maintaining the look of tight narrow gauge curves.

Len

[hminky]

Have been running the Mogul on 18" since 1998 and the Winter Wonderland trainset.

Check out my video.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=REwPeD9ELm8

Runs and looks great on 18" radius.

Thank you if you visit
Harold

[Flare]

DCC is not required for sounds, but it does give you a lot more control over them.

I'm not seeing a manual for the 2-6-0 sound module, but here's the one for the On30 Heisler which mentions analog operation:

https://www.bachmanntrains.com/home-usa/dwg/dwgs/On30StearnsHeislerSoundModuleInstructions.pdf

[Terry Toenges]

If you are just going with an 18" circle, you will need 11 pieces of #44501 curve. 1 piece of #44502 curved power track with rerailer.
If you make an oval with straights, you can use the straight power with rerailer piece #44510 and 1 piece of #44511 9" straight on the opposite side.
This is the gray roadbed nickel silver track which is much better than the black roadbed steel track because the steel track can rust.
Bachmann's "E-Z Command" is their basic DCC set up. Part #44932. I use it for my Christmas layouts. I can run at least three trains with it at the same time I haven't tried it with more.
If you go with DC, their DC power pack and speed controller is #44211.
It might be cheaper for you to just buy a set rather than individual pieces. Their current ones are the "Norman Rockwell American Christmas Train" #25023, the "Spectrum Yuletide Special Delivery Set" #25022 and the "White Pass & Yukon Passenger Train Set" #25024
There are a few other sets on EBay.
If you buy the loco you indicated and you want sound, you also have to buy the sound module #44957 to put in it.

[Flare]

I missed your lighting question, sorry.

If you decide to use a DC controller, most include accessory terminals that output a constant voltage of alternating current for turnouts and lighting.  (I believe it's 16v)  But as I recall the latest Bachmann one does not have those terminals, nor do any DCC controllers I've seen.

If you decide to use DCC, it is possible, but generally frowned upon, to power the lights directly from the rails.  You can, however, install lighting decoders between them that allow you to control the lights from your throttle.

Another solution that would work with both analog and DCC control would be to give the lights their own power supply.  This can be a simple wall wart spliced into your layout's lighting, or something more specialized like Woodland Scenics' 'Just Plug' lighting system.

https://woodlandscenics.woodlandscenics.com/show/category/JustPlugLightingSystem

[p51]

Track rail height comes in different heights. Many people want to use the shortest profile rail possible.
I have a tender from one of those 2-6-0s (modified as an auxiliary water car, the article for which appeared in the 2018 On30 Annual) and my layout has code 83 track.

Going through frogs on turnouts (track switches), the flanges bump through them just slightly, so I'd bet the wheels on the loco do the same (I scrapped the loco, dismantling it for parts to look like a scrapped steam locomotive:

I'd suggest running on code 100 rail (which is very common for HO scale track) if it comes up at all.