E-Z Track 45 & 60 degree crossings, and #5 Wye Turnout

[Milrat]

 I have just gotten back into model railroading after almost 50 years. I have selected the HO Scale Bachmann E-Z Track to use for a multitude of designs. All of my first designs will be switchless; for some I have plans to utilize numerous crossings. The problem I have just run into is with the 45 & 60 degree crossings. They are not molded large enough to connect track pieces to without having to alter/ cut the connected pieces. The 60 degree crossing only requires a small snip on two out of the four connected pieces but the 45 degree crossing requires the sacrifice of all four connected pieces. First of all, I don't understand how the parts could be manufactured with this oversight, and  that apparently also includes the #5 Wye Turnout, (I read that in someone else's comments). Now it looks like my overstock of 3" straights will have to be cut down to make a crossing I can work with. I've had two  different experienced model train people attempt to get a clean, straight cut on the 3" straights to mount flush with each other when attached to the 45 degree crossing. The results were terrible. I need to get 10 each of the 45 and 60 crossings set up to look as good as the 30 degree crossing. What are your ideas, hopefully proven, for a solution to this problem? Thanks, Jeff in New Hampshire 

[Len]

The roadbed of the short straight that comes with the #5 turnout is scribed underneath to show where to cut to make it fit. You may need something like that for some of the crossings, but the descriptions in the Bachmann e-store don't say if any sections are scribed or not.

Len

[Terry Toenges]

What if you made a jig like a miter box and used a razor saw? Figure out just what angle you need to make the cut and cut a triangle piece. Butt it up againt the side and glue or screw it. Make two angled cuts in the opposing side and remove the material between those cuts so the gap is big enough to slide a piece of E-Z Track in. Then you need the two slots for the saw. This way you could use any length straight you wanted to cut. It the sides were close enough together and if you have allowed for some wiggle room, you could cut curved pieces, too. If you are keeping the connectors, you could cut through the triangle piece and the side there so that the connector would fit through the hole.
I would put the saw in the middle of the "miter box" and make it so you could insert a piece of track from either so you could cut on either side of it.
As for myself, I usually just use a pair of pliers to snap the vertical piece off the corner underneath, then break the angled piece off. It's not very pretty or exact but I figure I can file it smooth or scenic it to hide the break.

[Milrat]

Thanks for the tip; I'll try it out on a  couple of pieces. Jeff in New Hampshire