Atlas -V- Bachmann EZ track

[rick1127]

OK I am building a lay out that has two (2) ovals.  One with 18" radius curves inside another using 22" radius curves.  Atlas says to use #6 or #4 switches to link the loops.  What dose this translate to in the EZ track.  Would I use the  EZ track #5 turnout?  Was at first looking at the EZ track #6 Cross over, but the length of that piece is a little two (2) big, seems I remember it is 22" long.  where the turn out looks more like 9" or so. Attached is the layout, the red ovals are the sections I am wondering about. 

[ebtbob]

The Bachmann EZ track and the Atlas version of ez track are NOT compatible as the roadbed tabs that help hold the track together are different.   Plan on using either all Bachmann or all Atlas track.   This is true in both HO and N scales.

[rick1127]

OK I must have miss spoke.  I am not combining differant track makes.  I will be building out of all Bachmann EZ track.  The layout is discribed uisng Atlas track, I am trying to figure out what an Atlas #4 or #6 switch translates to in the Bachmann EZ track.

[jward]

two things.
first, to answer your question, and atlas #4 is actually a 4 1/2 so it would be similar to the bachmann #5, the #5 should be slightly longer. that said, i do not know the exact dimensions of the ez track #5, but i can tell you that the straight side of an atlas 4 is 9" and the straight side of an atlas 6 is 12".... the curved sides measure 8" and 10" respectively, and minimum length of their respective crossovers, with tracks on 2" centers. is 16" and 20" respectively. if your tracks are spaced further apart then your crossovers will be longer.

second, i was looking at your layout plan. you might want to reverse those two crossovers at the top of the plan. as drawn you have s curves on the inner loop when you use the crossovers to go to the outer loop. if you reverse the placement of the two crossovers so that the two switches with their point ends facing each other are on the inner loop instead of the outer loop you will eliminate the s curves, and a potential trouble spot.

[ebtbob]

Rick,

      I am not sure about the length of the Bachmann turnouts,  but in general,  they seem to be the same length as standard Atlas turnouts without the plastic roadbed.   So.....if true,  then the #6 Bachmann should be the same size as the Atlas #6 and same for the #4.   Atlas does not make a #5 in their snap track line.   If you like,  you can email me,  my email is on my profile - here - and I will check and see if we have any at the train store,  where I will be working tomorrow.   If we have them,  I will measure them for you and email you back tomorrow evening.

[rick1127]

Jeff,

Thanks for the info on the switchs.  Looks like I can go with the bacmann with no problem.  Also thanks for the recomendation, as I have not yet put the switches in yea know budgets are tight.  Anyway I am trying to understand your change in the placement of the two (2) switches.  By reversing them you mean, flipping them over?  Or swapping sides, moving the left one to the right and the right to the left.

[jward]

yes, that is what i mean. by flipping their positions, when you come out of the half circles on the ends and take the crossover to the other track, you are turning the same way as the curve, not the opposite way. longer locomotives and cars have trouble negotiating the reverse curve because their couplers won't swign far enough to keep them from pulling adjacent cars off the track. the recommendation on s curves is that you include a straight track at least as long as your longest car between curves of opposite directions. on numbered switches, the part beyond the frog, which would be the part of the crossover between the two main tracks, is straight so you don't have a problem there. but coming out of an 18" radius right turn and going directly into a left switch will result in the s curve that causes all the trouble.  with the revision i suggested, you would come out of the 18" right turn, and run the length of the first crossover before taking the left switch. no problem. coming out of the 22" right turn you would go directly into a right switch, also no problem.

btw, did you know you can make the inner loop the equivalent of a 20" radius (for which there are no ready made track sections) by alternating 22" and 18" sections? you'd use 4 22" and 3 18" for each half circle...

[scrooge]

Can I throw my minute bit of knowledge in on E-Z crossovers, I assume that HO and N (my type) work the same?  If you are on DCC the crossovers are set up for this, but, if you are on DC they are not straightforward.  I had to cut the rail in the middle of the crossover so as to isolate them to allow a train to run on each oval at the same time etc.  I also found that the Crossover unit is a lot of money for something that might or might not function properly, I have 2 of them and three of the 4 points work OK the other one causes a short within itself which is unable to be found to rectify it therefore making the unit unusable.  To get round my problem is to connect a L and a R switch together isolated when joining them.  I am new to this game and am learning as I go along and this is a problem I have come up against.

[rick1127]

Jeff,

Again thanks for the recommendation on the reversing of the switchs.  No I did not know I could make a 20 degree loop, but will do so now.  Should give more room inside for the switch yard.

[jward]

if you do make the 20" radius inner loop. you can shorten the straight tracks on the sides by an inch or so at each end. doing so will ensure that trains on adjacent tracks don't sideswipe on the curves. you should be able to build a nice small yard in the center, maybe 3 or 4 tracks.

[rick1127]

Actually I think the gray road bed gives enough clearance so I won't need to shorten, but will keep your advise in mind.  Last thought on this for now, the switch's that are used together to move the train from one track over to the other.  Can I wire them into the same momentary switch.  They will need to operate at the same time, cutting splicing and wiring dose not scare me.  Or soldiering for that matter.  Just wondering if the juice form the switch will support moving both.

[pdlethbridge]

As there is a crossover at the bottom, why don't you eliminate one at the top

[rick1127]

Been thinking about doing just that, wallet will like that as well.  I think instead of the three I will go with one on each side.  Thus having one to transition to the inner loop and one to transition to the outer loop.  Not sure why it was built with three.

[jward]

yes, you can wire two switches together so they both throw at the same time. i've done it many times. you simply wire them into the same controller as though they were seperate. if one of them throws the wrong way, simply reverse the red and green wires.

as for the crossover at the bottom, i'd keep it in. it allows alot more flexibility in running your trains, such as the ability to have one train run around another one on the same track. if anytihin, i'd add a second set of crossovers on the bottom similar to the top.

[rick1127]

Great thought the wiring would work.  As far as adding a switch, my financial advisor (read wife) will have to approve.  Not that I am afraid to spend the money, I am afraid of her.