Bachmann Coupler Replacements

[ole]

I know that couplers have been discussed previously but I have not seen a number listed for Bachmann EZ Mate over shank couplers. All of my Bachmann rolling stock have the overshank model ---- some with the coil knuckle spring and others with the flat spring. And by the way, I use Kadee No. 5 for my scratch built cars since they have their coupler boxes. But I need to replace several of the Bachmann couplers due some accidents over the holidays.
So what is the number of the Bachmann over shank couplers and are these called medium or long shank length (I doubt that they are short)? Lee

[railtwister]

Bachmann has a product page on their website dedicated to their HO(On30) E-Z Mate couplers. It can be seen at: <http://www.bachmanntrains.com/home-usa/products.php?act=viewCat&catId=87> . Most of the equipment I have uses the medium length shank. Unfortunately, the shanks of the Kadee's (even the ones with the whisker springs) are to thick to fit in the stock Bachmann draft gear box without binding once the cover is installed, so unless you're ready to extensively modify the Bachmann frames to install the Kadee boxes, you're pretty much stuck with using the plastic couplers, which are much easier to break than the metal Kadees.

Regards,
Bill Nielsen
Ft. Lauderdale, FL USA

[rayport]

The Bachmann MK-2 coupler with the spring closing work as well as any coupler on the market and are generally lower cost than the others. Short and medium shank is good for most On30 situations. I also use Kadee #148 couplers to good effect and have not found them to be a problem in the stock Bachmann coupler box (the old Kadees auch as the #5 with the separate centering spring will however bind in the B'mann box). With over a years experience I can say that both K #148s and B Mk-2s perform equally well. Just amke sure that all match in lateral height!

[ole]

Based on the info provided, it appears that Bachmann's EZ Mate Mark II overshank medium couplers should be a direct replacement, #78022. I have not had a problem until I ran a used car that I purchased via Ebay; I just never looked at the couplers as the car wasn't modified, just slightly weathered. It turns out it had center shanks which only coupled with  half of the knuckle face. It worked on the Christmas layout just fine until I wasn't watching; it uncoupled and the loco came around and smashed into the rear of the uncoupled cars. Sadly, this occured several times until stupid me finally figured it out.
So a lesson was learned and I will just replace the damaged couplers as I haven't had a problem until this time. By the way, a friend's collection of Bachmann cars all have the overshank version except the most recent acquisition --- a brand new tank car. It has centershank couplers which mate just fine, it appears that the car is riding on different diameter wheels. Always something new to learn. Lee

[railtwister]

xx snip xx
By the way, a friend's collection of Bachmann cars all have the overshank version except the most recent acquisition --- a brand new tank car. It has centershank couplers which mate just fine, it appears that the car is riding on different diameter wheels. Always something new to learn. Lee

Original run Bachmann On30 cars had overshank couplers with plastic leaf knuckle springs, while later releases used similar shanked couplers with coiled metal knuckle springs. The new cars that have the new lowered underframes will have centershank couplers with coiled metal knuckle springs. The trucks & wheels used on the original cars and these lower versions remain the same.  New cars that have the new lowered underframes PLUS the low slung archbar trucks, such as the pulpwood cars, will have undershank couplers (still with coiled metal knuckle springs), because the low slung archbar trucks do use smaller wheelsets. In any case, the coiled metal knuckle springs are more desirable because they more reliably control the action of the knuckles than did the plastic leaf springs.

Regards,
Bill Nielsen