On30 Beyer-Garratt

[scottnl1947]

Hello,
I am kitbashing an On30 Beyer-Garratt locomotive. It is not modeled after a specific prototype. I am using two 2-6-0 locomotives for the front and rear engines. I plan to use a Tsunami 2 decoder for each engine. Is there any reason to keep the small PCB mounted to the chassis (see attached image), or can I hardwire the decoders directly into the model? I think I can rely on the power pickups built into the locomotive chassis to power the model without relying on the tenders, as they will not be used.

I have kitbashed a Bachmann 2-6-0 into a Camelback 2-6-0 and a Bachmann On30 2-4-4-2 into Camelback 2-4-4-2. I've always wanted a Beyer-Garrett and thought I would try it. I initially thought of trying a Beyer-Garrett Camelback but felt that might take this kitbash project a bit too far.

Thanks,
Scott

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[Tom_C]

Can't think of any reason to keep it. Is there anything on the other side, or is the cap the only component?

[scottnl1947]

Hi Tom, Thanks for your reply. This is the other side of the PCB.

[Tom_C]

Without it being in the circuit it's hard for me to figure it out, but the 2 resistors look like yellow-violet-gold, or 47ohms.  Looks like Rail R (right) and L (left) connect to the light wires (L- and L+).  The resistors tie the rails out to the capacitor and then it appears the board got plugged into something?

In any case.  My opinion is you can scrap the board.  The caveat is that I don't run DC and haven't done a conversion to DCC, so since I didn't disassemble it I can't be held accountable for the results.

[Fred Klein]

Scott, I have a DC 2-6-0 that I converted to DCC. What I did in that conversion, I used the PCB as "distributor" plate for the decoder wiring (mind you, this was a simple Digitrax decoder, no sound or anything else). It's been a few years since I did this so this is from memory. IIRC, I ended up removing (unsoldering) all of the components on the board and then using the solder pads for the wires. I think, (not 100% sure) that I had to cut one or two of the traces on the board in order to prevent a short and possibly I ended up bridging some pads with a short wire to create a new trace. The conversion went smoothly and still works very well. So, the short answer to your question is No, you don't need the PCB for your build, but I found it neatens things up to keep the wire "rats nest" to a minimum. Hope this helps.

[Tom_C]

I think, (not 100% sure) that I had to cut one or two of the traces on the board in order to prevent a short and possibly I ended up bridging some pads with a short wire to create a new trace.

Yes, you would need to isolate the light from the rails so the decoder can control the light.

I'm speculating here, but that PCB looks like it plugs into something in the direction of the cap, marked with the arrow in the first picture.  My guess is that plugs into something that is wired to the motor.  If that is true, then you would need to cut the traces for both the light, and the motor.  OR, you could not plug in the pcb and wire the motor up directly.  But, if my guess is true, then using the pcb would be an easier way to connect to the motor, but you MUST cut the traces if you intend to keep the pcb and plug it into what ever it plugs into***.

***Assuming it plugs into something.

[Fred Klein]

Tom, on my engine there were no plugs on that PCB, just the clips to hold the track and motor wires in place. However it is possible that the PCB is used in different locomotives so there might be something plugged in, in those applications. The arrow on mine pointed to the front of the locomotive, so I just assumed it indicated the forward direction.

Edit: On second thought, and after looking at the picture again, I believe the track power wires were soldered to the board (left hand side of photo) and then the clips held the wires to the motor and to the lights in place. As I said, its been a number of years since I've done this so the memory may not be 100% accurate any more.