2-6-0 Loco Problem

[Old Dragoon]

Purchased a loco (81495) and attempted to run it on my track. It runs great on straight track, but when it rounds a curve it binds and stops. Upon further examination, I noticed that unlike all of my other locos, this one had two downward facing pins inside the middle drive wheels which ride inside of both track rails. I believe these pins are causing the binding and therefore stopping the loco. I also believe, according to the brochure, that these have something to do with the loco's conductivity. Does anyone know how I can remedy this situation? Thank you.

[Loco Bill Canelos]

Lots of guys just remove the pins

[Old Dragoon]

Thanks, Bill. I sure do appreciate your reply. Thought of doing just that, but I didn't want to cause any conductivity problems. I am new to the hobby and a bit leary of taking chances with an expensive loco. No doubt it will work as a charm! Regards. Bill

[Old Dragoon]

Hi Bill. I removed the pin bar and it works like a charm! Thanks again. Bill

[Kevin Strong]

Just keep an eye on things if your curves are on the "tight" side (i.e., 4' radius or less). Because there's a bit of side-to-side play on that axle, the wheels may drop off the railhead if the curve is tight enough. The solution is to put a very thin shim between the inside edge of the bearing block and the valve gear eccentrics to reduce the side-to-side play. On mine, I just cut two slivers off of a Bic ball-point pen barrel (not quite 1mm thick each). I cut the side so I could slip it over the axle without having to remove anything, and it was all done.



If you're not having troubles, don't worry about it. I test everything I build on an LGB 1600 curve (just a whisker under 4'), so I put the spacers in just to be safe.

Later,

K