Sound decoders for a new Bachmann RF-16 (DCC onboard)

Started by quartermiler660, March 17, 2011, 09:45:34 AM

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quartermiler660

         To start with, I'm a DCC rookie.  I recently purchased a new Bachmann RF-16 with DCC w/o sound, factory equipped.  I now need to add sound, but there may be a problem.  I've had to add several lead weights to the chassis and to the inside, top of the shell, just so it could get traction and actually move down the tracks.  Consequently, the sound module is going to have to be extremely small.
        Also, I plan to obtain the 'B' unit in the near future, (also powered) and if it requires the same amount of weight to get traction, then the space problem will remain.  Am I in deep doo-doo here, or is there less of a problem than I am anticipating?  Needless to say, I am in desperate need of some expert advice.  All assistance will be greatly appreciated.
                                                                                                                                Thanks, Bob

quartermiler660

I don't know how much help it will be, but I'm a USAF trained electronics tech.  If the stuff has a decent schematic, and written directions, I wouldn't foresee a problem with that part  But, it's always good to be totally aware of Murphy's Law.

Doneldon

660-

Good suggestions and warnings here, but don't be intimidated. A DCC installation is within the ability of most people who are careful and follow instructions. There's lots of help on this board and elsewhere on the www.

Space may be an issue, particularly in the A-unit. You lose a lot of volume to the cab and nose area. You might want to consider putting sound only in the B-unit where there's a little more open volume. Buy a silent B-unit, run the A-unit without sound, and do a new install with sound in the B-unit. This will save you a little work and I think you are likely to be as happy with sound in one loco as with sound in two. You could run a speaker in the A-unit from the B-unit's sound board, too, though that means both units would be in perfect harmony and timing which isn't true in the 12 inches to the foot world.

Good luck and have fun!
                                                                   -- D

quartermiler660

WOW!  What a response!  All this wonderful information, and the new locomotive all but died yesterday evening.  I had gone to the basement to do several things, and put the power to the rails and all was well.  Then I brought the train to a stop and took the new RF-16 off the track to reinstall a screw I had left out the night before.  Wandering screw now back in its home, I placed the 'shark' back at the front of the pack, and as the saying goes, "I shot the juice to Bruce".  Lots of noise, but not much action.  The old engine sitting there spinning its wheels and jittering around the way they do when they don't seem to be able to get a grip.  I took the old GP38 off and tried the shark alone, and all it did was buzz, and made a very small movement, that reminded me of the 'torque twist' a car engine does when you rev it up with the carb linkage.  But the little dickens would NOT move in either direction.  One of those cry in your beer moments.  Anybody got some clue what happened?

Doneldon

660-

I'd check for something binding after the reassembly or a cracked gear.

                                                                   -- D

r0bert

check for wire wrapped up in driveline, or some other foriegn object lodged in the works.

quartermiler660

Howdy folks.  Many thanks to everyone who offered up ideas about my jammed up engine.  After having mustered up the cajones' to start tearing the little bugger apart, I now see that all of you were on the right track.  What the jam turned out to be, was very simple after all.  I think I might have mentioned at some point, that the front drive shaft just didn't look right.  Well, when I removed the front truck, I first tried to turn the rear drive unit, and it was turning freely.  The front driveline didn't appear to be broken, so I figured it's worth a try, so I got a tiny dab of lube to push into the coupling on the gearbox, placed the driveshaft back in, then very carefully placed the drive unit back in the frame, and secured it w/the screw.  I replaced the DCC board, then laid the assembly on its side and shot the juice to Bruce, and viola' it ran.  Of course, I couldn't be satisfied with that.  I put the shell back on and hauled tail to the 'dungeon', so I could get it on the rails for the test drive.  I'm very happy to report that the 'shark' is alive and well, and back to hunting more vict--  , I mean food.  She now anxiously awaits the arrival of her mate (the'B' unit).  I won the bid on that one last night on Ebay.  Got to wait for it to get here from Texas.  Does this make me an authority on Bachmann drive lines and final drive units?  :)     
One thing for Richg.  Aren't the Digitrax Sound units pretty much generic?  I was thinking of getting a Digitrax all in one module for the old GP I have.  Almost ashamed to waste the money to modernize that thing, as it's a LifeLike set loco, from a few years back.  Fool thing pulls very good though.  A real animal.

Doneldon

660-

You probably know this already, but ... be
sure to use plastic compatible lubricants.

                                           -- D