I cut off the little plug at the end of the switch tri wire and pealed the wires apart for a couple of inches and stripped the ends.  I think the center wire is the common.  If you power it up with your power pack and one of the others, the switch will go one way.  If you power up the other outside wire, it will go the other way.  Just apply power for a second.  I hope this helps. I used Atlas switch controls which are all over the place for practically nothing.

I've always thought it was helpful for people to post what they ended up doing regarding a question they posted in a  forum instead of leaving everyone hanging.  The online train stores have a bulb, Life Like 1213 but the shipping starts at about $5.95 which makes three bulbs cost about  $3.50  each.  This is a 14 volt bulb.  Radio Shack carries a 12 volt bulb, number  272-1143 in a two pack for $1.49 the pair. It is in the pull-out drawers near the flashlight bulbs.  I had tested my track voltage at WOT and it is right at 12 volts.  I installed these bulbs and they seem to work perfectly and were reasonable in price.  Bulb life is supposed to be 1000 hours.

Sorry about all these newbie questions.  I have several old Tyco passenger cars that are factory lighted. (probably 1960's) They use a very small threaded base bulb, diameter about .200".  The glass is about the same diameter as the base.  I have googled and searched with no success.  There is no number on the old ones.  Anyone know what they are and where they can be purchased? Alternatively, does anything else work in their place?  Thanks all!

I actually have a pair of these PA's, both with metal trucks, older production, one with the removed axles and the other stock with all six axles.  I have an 18" radius inner track and a 22" outer track and both locomotives run either track without any problems.  I guess like some of the bigger Bachmann locos, the radius the loco can run  varies in the same model.

I recently purchased an earlier blue box  Athearn PA diesel off ebay.  It has a total of 6 driven axles and  middle axle in each truck was removed and enclosed in the box. This was in the description.  Does anyone know why the center axle on each truck might have been removed?  The locomotive seems to run and pull fine and does 18" and 22" radius curves fine. I just wondered if there was a problem with these locos.

I think I agree with the OP and atari.  If My brand new Bachmann Spectrum locomotives won't run reliably on EZ track nickel silver turnouts, and I'm talking about even reliably going straight through , the product needs a little more development before it is released on the public.  None of these items are inexpensive when purchased and they ought to be reliable when properly set up right out of the box.

I have two 4-8-2 Bachmann Spectrum Mountains that both do fine on 18" and 22" radius.  My Bachmann Pacific seems to have trouble going over turnouts but of course is fine on 18" radius.

Thanks very much for all your replies.  I think the look I've settled on is the Tyco lighted cars from probably the 1960's.  I actually had a couple of these given to me by a friend but didn't know what they were.  Anyway I scored a set on ebay and I think they will be just perfect. I would think some company would reissue these and that they would sell to people who are beginners or not interested or able to build large radius layouts but want a passenger look.  Thanks again all!

I'm probably looking for a streamliner type car kind of like the Lionel or American Flyer cars of the 1950's in appearance.  Predominately silver with a stripe would look good. I have been watching ebay but nothing seems to come up.  I'm sure it will in time and a couple of shows are not too far in the future.  I will look there.  Any other ideas from anyone?

What is available in passenger car sets that will run an 18" radius in a lighted car of reasonable quality and price?  (Manufacturer and source) I have an 18 and 22 radius oval and would like to run on both.  I'm not concerned with overhang as long as operation is reliable. I've looked on ebay and the net and can't seem to come up with much.

Using Bachmann EZ track and switches, I find my diesels do just fine, my 4-8-2 Mountain does fine but my Pacific 4-6-2 seems to balance in such a way that the loco shifts when the rear drive wheel passes the frog and the loco derails.  In my case, I think it is a wheelbase/balance issue with that particular size locomotive.  I replaced the switch and the new one did exactly the same thing. My couplers are fine. I'm new in HO so this is just my observation.

I have a nice DC transformer.  If I purchase a Heavy Mountain 4-8-2 with DCC and sound and just run it on the DC, will I get full sound? If I don't get full sound, what do I get?  What is the next step up in equipment to take full advantage of the DCC. I have several non DCC locos. I'm out in the middle of nowhere and can't drive and ask someone.  Thanks

I bought several used EZ track turnouts at a show last weekend.  They came without slide switches to control them. They have the green tri-wires with plugs. I can't find the number of the slide switches anywhere.  Anybody have it and is this the best way to go?

That seems like a good price. Where did you order it? Thanks

Hello all,  I just got stated in HO a couple of weeks ago.  I have a couple of old American Flyer locos and would like to get something modern in a steam engine, minimum size 4-6-2 or larger.  I'm not into  DCC but sound would be nice.  Looking for a nice running, probably  metal bodied engine for 18" and 22" curves. Looking at the first two replies below, it looks like metal can't be a requirement.  What do you all like and who has the best prices right now. Alternatively, any good used stuff around?  I'm out in the middle of nowhere.  Thanks for your help!