Ah, Gotcha!

Aren't these 10 degree curves?

http://www.bachmanntrains.com/home-usa/catalog/?function=detail&id=190

Good call on the link to the XTrkCad group!  It is: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/XTrkCad/  You have to sign up for the forum (its free).  The parameter file is in the File section and is named BachmannHOEZTrack.xtp

I Am curious as to how accurate it is in real usage.  Perhaps I should say this on the XTrkCad forum, but I have a feeling more people in this forum may use it.  The switches were the hardest to get measured accurately, and I've of course thought of a better way to measure them now that its done!   

The straight pieces were exactly the length advertised Except the 3" pieces.  All of the ones I have measure 2 15/16", so that's what I used.  I was also (on purpose) sparse on the piece descriptions - I wanted them to be small.

Anyone who wants to - feel free to take that file, correct anything that needs correcting, add missing pieces, etc!

Oh - and as far as posting my layout - I'd be embarrassed to post the one I Currently have - the phrase "Massive Overkill" would be accurate! - I tried to squeeze as much track into a 5'x9' space as I could!, mostly to test the parameter file with reality, but also partially so my son and I can run trains in separate circles as fast as possible!     But any interesting ones I come up with down the road, I will!  And I'm curious to see what others come up with too!

OK - I just posted my Bachmann HO E-Z Track parameters file for XTrkCad in the XTrkCad Yahoo forum.  I only have the pieces defined that I actually own.  I tried to be as accurate as I could but I make no guarantees.  The layout I built in the program vs what I actually built in my basement looks pretty much the same.  Hopefully others will find this useful.

I just put the finishing touches on it last night as a matter of fact!  I only did the pieces I actually have (ie, can measure) - specifically it only has the "standard" turnouts defined and not the #5, #6, etc.

I had to change the Preference / Connection Distance from "0.100" to "0.170" to relax the connections a little.  There's considerable play in E-Z Track so that should be fine - plus, once I did that, I was able to model all of the turnouts, ladders, etc that Terry Toenges was nice enough to layout for us.

I want to first build a layout in XTrkCad and then build it for real to make sure the pieces actually fit like the software thinks they should.  Hoping to get that done this weekend.  After that, I'll upload it to the XTrkCad forum.

I know somewhere on this board there was an explanation of what the E-Z Track standard switch was equivalent to - but I searched and could not find it.  I know the straight section is equivalent to a 9 inch straight piece, and the curve is equivalent to an 18" radius curve.

From what I can tell - it Looks like if you took a 9" straight piece, and 1 3/8" up from the end of that you placed an 18" 30 degree curve piece, you would have the equivalent.   But I remember reading someone who had a different explanation.

My reason for asking is because I'm trying to model the E-Z Track pieces in XTrkCad, and my results aren't really lining up with real life just yet!   

(Using HO gauge)

[EDIT-]
Actually, I think maybe I have it correct now.  A little tweaking and it now looks good.  So maybe a different question - does anyone have an E-Z Track parameters file for XTrkCad?  I haven't been able to locate one, just questions looking for one.

Thanks!

So far, I've only used Digitrax decoders, and they allow dual mode.  Basically, if the decoder doesn't detect the DCC signal, it reverts to DC operation automatically.

If you are using DCC exclusively, one reason to set DV29 to not allow DC operation is because if the DCC signal were to somehow get interrupted/stopped but full voltage remained on the track - all the locos on the layout would suddenly take off at full speed ahead.  I have never witnessed this, but I have to believe it would get everyone's attention right now!   

Quote from: Summertrainz on July 01, 2007, 11:26:19 PM

yo ohio!
wut's up

"O!" "H!".....!

I thought it was "Y'all ain't from around here....IS YA?!!?"  My mother-in-law is Shirley, hmm.  BTW, the OP has been awfully silent.....banished? - that would have to be some kind of speed record!

Guilford Guy is correct, the Bachmann Thomas is a DC engine, so it should work fine with your DC equipment.  I recently bought a Thomas for my son and am in the process of converting it to DCC - or I should say, I have it all torn apart but haven't found the time to start putting it back together yet!  :-)

Ohio.  Welcome back, Plasser.

I have some old Tyco cars I've been converting from horn-hook to Kadee couplers.  I've body mounted some (probably lean more towards that in the future), but I've found that truck mounting works best for the rolling stock that I have when I use Kadee #27 couplers.  They match the closest to the Kadee Coupler gauge (something else I would recommend getting).

Also - it took my 44-year-old eyes a long time to figure out what 2 pieces of plastic to cut out of the Tyco truck mounts.  They are 2 tiny tabs on either side just inside the front of the truck mount.  Make sure you get All of them removed - the brass spring will move in the "box" freely when they are properly cut out.  (I hope that makes sense, once you try a conversion hopefully you'll see what I mean).

Very nice!  I'm starting to expand my collection of E-Z Track and am always looking for EZT layouts and tips/ideas.

I did have a question -  you mentioned on the "#1 picture" that:

  "No straights between curve and turnout.   ***NOT A GOOD IDEA ***"

I'm curious as to why that is?  Is it because its too tight for some locos to get through (like say a 4-10-4?) or what?  I've been noodling some layouts and was thinking of doing something like your "#7 opposing turnouts" but put the "left left" connected directly to each other without the 2 1/4" straight in between - I'm now reconsidering that idea!

Thanks!

Thanks for the info!, that's exactly what I was wanting to know!

As far as wire connectors for the track, I'd like to learn what would work too.  Looking into the plug on the wire harness, it looks to be some type of female spade-type connector - I think something like this http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2104091&cp=2032058&f=Taxonomy%2FRSK%2F2032058&categoryId=2032058&kwCatId=2032058&kw=spade+connectors&parentPage=search would work, assuming the right size were found.  I was just at Radio Shack today too, actually - I should have brought a piece of track with me!

johndmuller

I have a curiosity question about the EZ track with the insulated gap.  I've gone to my local hobby shops to try to see one but haven't been able to locate one in stock, and I can't tell from the picture on Bachmann's site.  The question is - are the insulated gaps Parallel to each other, or is one offset about 1/16" or so?  In other words, would a pair of wheels rolling over the gap contact Both gaps at the same time or not?

Thanks!