Jonathan,
Not what I was hoping to hear!      I've read your excellent work on this engine and appreciate your superb contributions to the cause.

The tooth pick or a sharp needle is a good idea.  I've 6 of this Locomotive and one is at Bachmann for repair, suspected decoder and loco locked up.  4 of the 6 have some issue with the wipers.  I'm going to see how the repaired one comes back.  I've had these since about 2007 or so and run the wheels off them so to speak.  I could justify just sending them in for repair/replacement at $45 plus shipping would be worth it if I got another 10 years out them. 

I wonder how Bachmann manufactures them?

Joe

I've read and hunted for a tutorial or write up on replacing the underframe and wipers on the 2-8-0.  Everything I've read about the subject is 2008 or 2009 and it says it is really tricky and frustrating.  I've tried twice and there just has to be a secret to doing this.  Any new information out there on this.  The YouTube stuff on Bachmann repair is less than helpful.

Thanks,
Joe 

A couple of points I'd consider before I started cutting wires and getting the soldering iron up to temperature.
1 - Take a postage scale and weigh the locomotive, if it does not weight more than 14-15 OZ, the pulling power will be less than what I require.
2 - Check to see if the locomotive has flywheels on the motor shaft. Flywheels are typically brass/copper color and at least 1/2 inch in diameter.

Without the two conditions both being in the affirmative, I would not spend the time and money on the locomotive. 

I've a set of F7's that I tried to dcc sound equip and found the results to be well below my standards.

Here is a link to some of the differences I encountered in my F7 adventures.

http://joe-daddy.com/index.php/the-train-room-2/138-bachmann-f7-locomotive-internal-differences

Joe

Bob,
Reading and rereading your write up, it sounds like you have a broken wire at the connector or the pin in the connector slid out of the shell.  A more thorough description and a picture will assure you get better advise and recommended next steps.

Joe

Quote from: wjstix on June 24, 2013, 09:58:52 AM
Tsunami sound decoders can be bought and easily installed (just unplug the installed non-sound decoder, or the 'dummy plug' on non-DCC engines, and plug in the sound decoder). Digitrax, ESU, QSI and other companies also make sound decoders that can be easily installed.

My experience is the installation of a sound decoder in a DC, DCC ready or DCC on board loco is with speaker placement.  Installing the sound decoder is typically pretty easy, but getting that speaker and BAFFLE to fit can be a bear and in some cases, a show stopper.

My experience with double sided foam tape has been dismal, it never seems to stick to both surfaces (sides), ever.  Using scotch 33 has been disappointing as well.

Most of my decoders, like other posters have said, float in side the locomotive or tender shell. 

If the decoder happens to be 'bare', one can easily 'seal' them with a piece of the appropriate diameter shrink tubing. 

Kapton tape, while a bit pricy, does seem to be useful securing wiring and decoders as desired.

Decoder Pro. . .

Quote from: Doneldon on June 08, 2013, 10:54:40 PM

Quote from: Joe_Daddy on June 08, 2013, 12:56:11 PM
Now, if acetone is in anyway harmful to humans ingestion excepted, I'd be amazed that would be available without a permit.

Joe-

Acetone is harmful. - - - Acetone go BOOM! House, too, or maybe it will just catch fire.
- - -
                                                                                                                                         -- D

Don,
I think you have take the worst case scenario and taken it a few steps past.  Acetone is not a bomb in the medicine chest.  The propane tank in the grill is has far more lethal potential.  Actone evaporates so quickly that it would have to be an very small confined space to create an explosive result. 

My last words on the subject. 

Joe Daddy

Quote from: jbrock27 on June 08, 2013, 07:14:09 AM
J.D., when you say VERY different, do you mean in a good way or a bad way?

IF acetone were harmful to human beings, putting it on a rag with your finger behind it would expose your body part with direct contact for as long as you are cleaning the track which could be hours.  On the other hand, pouring it into the CMX tank exposes one to some fumes for a few seconds and unless you spill it on yourself, there is no bodily contact.

Now, if acetone is in anyway harmful to humans ingestion excepted, I'd be amazed that would be available without a permit.

Just my 2 cents.

Joe D

Regarding Acetone, I said a friend uses it in his CMX car and has great success with it. I've never tried it myself but see absolutely no issue with it. Putting it on a rag is VERY different from pouring it in a tank and letting it drip onto the track.  However I'll remind everyone that Acetone, after all is fingernail polish remover.

Joe

Art,
While we are on the subject of cleaning track, I have tried many of the finer track cleaning cars out there and find the CMX Clean Machine to be my favorite.     I use isopropyl alcohol, but have a friend who swears by acetone to keep his track clean.  I don't use it very often, maybe once every 6 months I'll take a few laps on the mainline but it does a great job.

Have a great day.

Joe

Art,
Thanks for sharing.

Coffee filter paper is an interesting thought.  When I find a car or loco with dirty wheels, which is not very often, I use alcohol and a bounty paper towel.


I have found that replacing all plastic wheel sets with metal does more to keep the track clean than any other thing I can do.  The exception is when I have done some construction or scenery where I find I need to use something like a bright boy to get the track back in shape. 

Wayover,
Get a locobuffer usb for your Digitrax (~$60).  Download JMRI (free) and use JMRI's Decoder Pro and stop the insanity of CV programming.  Your life will be simpler and your enjoyment of the trains will increase.  With Decoder Pro you can reset the decoders reprogram them and be done with it in a few minutes and have predictable results. 

And if you really want to get good with decoder pro, forget the locobuffer and buy a SPROG II ($100) instead.  It works with JMRI and is simply amazing in how it works with all the balky different decoders, sound etc. (MTH excepted)

Yes their is some learning curve for decoder pro but it is nothing compared to learning how to program CVs. 

Just my opine of course.   

Joe

Guys,

If you have a postage scale, you can weigh the locomotives and it will help distinguish one from another.

The NEWEST F7 A & B's from Bachmann are heavy,  about 17 oz compared to the DC only versions that weigh about 8 OZ, do not have flywheels and have much longer couplers than the newest versions which come in three configurations, DCC onboard, DCC Value Sound and DCC ready.  All of the F7's I've seen have four screws holding the body on which is easily swapped from one to another.  The B unit has no head light either.

The llink below will lead you to some information and pictures that could be useful.  I do not have an FT, but from what I have seen, they are more akin to the DCC F7's than the analog DC only version.

I'd have to say that this new crop of Bachmann F7's are MUCH better than the older ones and are worthy to sit on my layout.

http://joe-daddy.com/index.php/the-train-room-2/138-bachmann-f7-locomotive-internal-differences

Joe

Yes, I have done this.   If you old shell is secured by 4 screws it will likely work fine.

Here is a link to some pictures and info I have collected on the different F7 configurations.  Hope it helos.

Joe

http://wwwjoe-daddy.blogspot.com/2013/05/bachmann-f7-locomotive-differences.html