I did not receive the replacement gears I had requested, so I sent another e-mail to the support address asking if gears were still being shipped and had them 4 days later.

The product catalog shows http://www.bachmanntrains.com/home-usa/products.php?act=viewProd&productId=3461

There may be more.

I don't know if this is new or not.

eric

Link to Bachmann Product catalog:  http://www.bachmanntrains.com/home-usa/products.php?act=viewProd&productId=363

The specs at the bottom of the page indicate it is DCC-ready.

Looks very nice. I agree it looks better than the original.

I am glad you are putting your web site back together, even though it is work for you. I have used some of your scenery techniques and the DCC in the Mogul article with good results. Thank you.

Eric Root

Charlie and ebtnut

Thank you for an intelligent reply not full of *****.

A relief from those who constantly complain because they didn't get their wish.

eric

A big thank you Harold. Your web site is an excellent source of information and ideas for those interested in model railroading. I wish I had your talent.

eric

With the log in set for always log in, when I try to mark messages as read, I get the following error message "Session verification failed. Please try logging out and back in again, and then try again." When I try to log out, I get the same error message, repeatedly. It appears there is no way to break this cycle. I've tried shutting down the browser and closing the page, but it is always the same.

1. How can I change my log in back to sign in each time, which seems to make the site work normally?

or

2. Is there some way to stop getting this error message?

Thank you

Eric Root

Woody,

I don't think you should feel so bad. At least you have something to smash. Every time I see Harold's work, it sends me back to the drawing board wondering why I ever thought I possibly could construct anything that would resemble a railroad. I'm always amazed at what he comes up with. He's like any electronic product. Just about the time you think you've got everything straight and you're going to buy the newest, latest, greatest tomorrow, he releases a new model.

Eric

To add to JohnR's comments, there are other ON30 turnouts available.  Two additional sources are:

<http://www.maine2footquarterly.com/turnout.htm>

<http://oldpullmanmodelrailroads.com/op_catalog/Narrow_Gauge_turnouts.pdf>

There are others, but I don't remember/have the URL's for them.

I have run all my Bachmann items through #4 turnouts, but to allow for different engines later on, I am using #5 or #6 turnouts.  If you ever plan to run some of the MMI products, such as a 2-8-2, I would go with #6 turnouts.

Some use regular HO track, which does increase your options considerably.

Hope this helps.

Eric Root 

Thank you for taking the time to locate and post the picture.

Eric Root

I found 2 more tutorials in the On30 2006 Annual.  Larry Puckett wrote the first article and the Porter install portion begins on page 41.  Text and 3 pictures.  John Everett wrote the other article which begins on page 72.  Text and 4 pictures.

Hope this helps.

Eric Root

This is not perfect, but maybe helpful.  I couldn't get the link to work, but this is what I downloaded awhile ago.

Decoder Install - Porter 0-4-0 01/06/2007 09:18 AM
http://www.datamasta.com/emags/how_to/d_2005_oct_03.asp Page 1 of 5
Back This article has been viewed 160 times
Decoder Install - Porter 0-4-0
By Ray Montgomery
Installing a DCC decoder on either of the Bachmann Porters, 0-4-0 or 0-4-2, is not a task to be undertaken lightly. Ray Montgomery explains his method.
In this conversion I used the following materials and tools:
Lenz 511 decoder. Any properly rated small decoder will work I chose this decoder because it was what I had on hand.
Heat shrink tubing
Solder
Soldering iron
Dremel tool with #115 cutter
Screwdriver
Overview
This installation is not particularly easy. You will be completely disassembling this engine. If you are not
comfortable doing that, stop now. First take a look at the exploded view that is on Ted Hawkins web-site
(Thanks Ted). (or the one which comes with the locomotive - Editor). The headlight wires and the engine leads will be routed around the motor under the tank to the cab. The pickup leads come out of the frame and up into the cab. You can choose not to connect the headlight to the decoder. My decoder had leads for front and rear lights and since I will be adding tenders I did use the decoder front headlight wires. Also, I did not use the cab light so I cut the leads off. If you would like to use it you can leave it connected as is or use
Decoder Install - Porter 0-4-0 01/06/2007 09:18 AM
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your decoder aux leads.
1. Pull the cab without floor up and off, yes it comes right off, it may have a bit of glue holding it to the
floor but mine just popped right off.
2. Turn the engine over and remove the four screws that hold the water tank. Also notice the sand lines
are attached, remove those carefully. The tank should come right off. (See photo below)
3. Next the motor needs to come out. Hold the motor between your fingers and thumb. Pull gently up
and the motor with gear will pop out. Notice there is only one wire to the motor. The other connection
is a contact strip under the engine. Note, this contact strip will be removed later.
4. Look at the rear of the boiler, see the two small slots in the sides of the firebox area. Use a small
screwdriver and push in on the clips and lift up on the boiler/firebox. Once it is released the
firebox/boiler/smokebox will move forward and detach. Under the smoke box you will see the wires
connecting the headlight and the motor. Cut these wires if you are going to connect the headlight to
the decoder. (See photo above).
5. Now pull the cab floor towards the rear of the engine it will come off easily.
Decoder Install - Porter 0-4-0 01/06/2007 09:18 AM
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6. Now look at how the wires will go around the motor. You can run down either side but I chose the
engineers side because the tank has a cast in gap that can help routing the wires. (See photo below)
The wires will continue around the side of the motor to the cab and inside the cab. Take a marker and
draw a line on the inside of the tank where the wires will run. You will need to remove material from
the inside of the tank. I used the Dremel tool with #115 cutter. If you have access to a mill that is even
better. It will not need to be very neat BUT make it smooth so the wires don't get nicked. This routing
will take some time don't rush it and work carefully. At the back of the tank use the cutter to make a
slot for the wires to exit the tank.
7. Take a good long look at the valve gear. This stuff comes completely apart. Turn the engine over and
pop the bottom clip off. The wheels and valve gear will now come off in many pieces.
8. Remove the three screws that hold the two frame halves together. Now you can see where all the
wires went. I de-soldered all of them and removed them. Now is the time to remove the pickup to the
bottom of the motor.
9. Let’s turn to the pickups. The pickups are spring loaded pins that connect to strips inside the frame. I
do not like these pins for pickups but I am adding NG Trains tenders and the pickups on those should
make up for this. If you want you could make some pickup shoes or buy some and attach them to the
Decoder Install - Porter 0-4-0 01/06/2007 09:18 AM
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frame strips. Notice that the wiper strips run along both sides of the inside of the frame. Drill a hole in
each frame side between the screw hole and the rear driver. Make sure the hole goes through the
wiper. Insert a wire in the hole and solder it to the pickup strip.
10. Now take the cab. You will need to make a slot for the wires coming from the boiler. First check the
line up of the cab and tank. Where the wires exit the tank you must make a matching slot in the cab.
There is a space between the cab and the tank, which the wires must cross. On my first installation I
just colored the wires with a black marker but you could use tubing painted black or heat shrink
tubing.
11. Place the cab on the cab floor. Locate where the wires coming from the frame are located. Mark and
drill a hole in each of the two front corners for the pickup wires.
12. You should have all the wires in place. I routed the left frame pickup line over the backhead to the
decoder. Now it is time to reassemble the engine. I would assemble only as much as necessary to test
run the engine. If your test is successful continue to reassemble.
13. I placed my decoder in front of the engineer. I plan on cutting an engineer figure at the waist and
placing him on top of the decoder.
Decoder Install - Porter 0-4-0 01/06/2007 09:18 AM
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The valve gear is the toughest part of this install. Go slow and consult the exploded drawing. Let me know how you’re doing, post your picture on the Conspiracy or forward it to 'On30 Tracks' for all to see.
Photos copyright © 2005 Ray Montgomery
Page last changed 07/09/2006

Not the best, but some info-hope it helps.

Eric Root

Looks good and I like it a lot better than the adapter kits that remove the "cow catcher" entirely.  Very nice work.

Ned,

Not to dispute Woody Elmore's statements about hand laying track, but if you want an alternative, the LITCO switches fit manufactured track.  They work well with Micro Engineering ON30 flex-track.  I think the rails used by LITCO are made by Micro Engineering.  The switches could be made to work with E-Z track, but would require shimming since E-Z track has a built in roadbed that the LITCO switches do not.

Just another choice.

Eric Root