Jim, unfortunately "investing" in anything right now is not much of an option right now.  All my equipment that I currently own has come in the form of a gift or a trade with other hobbyists.

Also, I am only running HO scale.  The N Scale equipment I have been talking about is part of a trade.  I am doing decoder installs in several N scale locomotives in exchange for all this person's old HO scale stuff..  The GP40-2 that I have been talking about is part of this deal as well as 15 eztrack turnouts, 4 or 5 circles of track, and a bunch of straights, as well as a couple diamond crossings..

As far as BEMF is concerned, the TCS T1 has it and I have experimented with it.  The T1 will start and stop my roundhouse 2-6-0 on a 10% grade without slipping, and it will still begin to move at the first or second speed step, on 128 steps.

I was under the impression that, at low speeds and starts, the Dithering feature of the TCS decoders was more useful than the BEMF.

Ok so how about this:

• 1 Directional Headlight, Front (1 bulb), diode connected to number-boards (1 bulb)
• 2 Directional Headlight, Rear (1 bulb, maybe 2), diode connected to number-boards (same bulb as above)
• 3 Mars Light (1 bulb)
• 4 Interior Light (1 bulb)

The diodes mentioned in Function 1 and Function 2 are connected to a single light bulb for the number-boards, so that when EITHER headlight is on, the number-boards will be lit as well.  This assures that the number boards will be lit regardless of other functions as loon as the F0 is on, and frees up the function that will become the mars light.

I will soon be working on an SW9 (LifeLike, N Scale) which will have the following:

• 1 Directional Headlight, Front (1 bulb)
• 2 Directional Headlight, Rear (1 bulb, maybe 2)
• 3 roof beacon (1 bulb)
• 4 Interior Light (1 bulb)

If i can find an acceptable flashing LED, I may use the diodes to get power from the directional lighting to run the roof beacon, and use that freed-up function to add controlable ditch lights.

These two locos are a case of "how much can I manage to do on these two locos that might be useful on future builds?" so overboard is ok

Guilford Guy:
Thank you for pointing that out to me.  I do not know much at all about prototypical light functions or locations.  I was told that the ditch lights would flash alternately when the horn was sounded, if ditch-light CVs were used.

Mike from DieCastoms

After such wonderful feedback (which I need to reply to) to my post in the N Scale forum, I thought I would try my luck with another issue.

I was recently given an HO scale trainset quality GP40-2 with a Digitrax 4 function decoder (DH140). 

First of all, the loco does run and I have been using it to experiment with DCC settings, since my other equipped loco runs so smoothly that the settings don't make obvious differences.  On 28 speed steps with factory settings in the Digitrax, the loco would not move until speed step 8.  I adjusted the start voltage and it now moves at step one, however it is a very obvious boom-bust cycle because of the cheap 3 pole motor and lack of flywheel.  Short of tossing the loco and getting a better one, what can be done about the surging?

I also have the option of swapping the two decoders I have.  The decoder in my Roundhouse 2-6-0 is a TCS T1 which would have Dither that might help (don't know much about Dither yet).  The drawback here is, the T1 has only two functions, and the DH140 has 4.  I have no use for more functions in the steamer and I WANT more in the diesel..

The loco currently only has reversing headlights and since it has a 4 function and isn't a prize winning loco, I would like to use it to experiment with adding other lights to the shell.  I would like some suggestions on what lights I could add.  I have already boxed in the cab ceiling so that the light there only shines through the headlights and number boards, so the cab is dark.  I do not think I could add ditch lights, not to mention if I did add them I would want to put them on actual ditchlight functions and that takes two functions, doesn't it?

I had more for this post when I began typing it but now I can't think of anything else to add... so I am posting it as is before my browser decides to crap it out...

Mike, from DieCastoms

QuoteFirst, as noted, there's no need to remove the decoder, it doesn't affect how your engine will run on DC.

I was under the impression that a DCC loco on DC track took much more power to start moving than a DC loco on the same track, because, even running on analog mode, the decoder has to have enough voltage to power up first?  Is this not true?

[Note: ABC touched on this while I was posting.  I decided to post anyway ]

I am glad I read this post.  I was not aware that there are no top or mid speed settings in BMann stock decoders?  Is that accurate?  What other features aren't included?

Mike from DieCastoms

Thank you friends for your replies and generous offers of help.

Unfortunately, upon returning to the Flea Market today to get my train off of lay way, I was informed that someone else offered twice as much and my deposit was returned to me.

Oh well.

I have no other N stuff, so am going to stick with HO.  See my other post in the HO forum if interested.

Mike, from DieCastoms.

I do not yet have possession of the set.  I put it on layaway at a fleamarket because the ATM was being a pain and wouldn't let me have my own money.  The train was part of a larger deal, including a Craftsman table-size band saw.  the prices were $25 for the saw and $30 for the set and the seller dropped to $40 for both, $20 each.

I was not aware about the loco having a drive shaft until I started reading the forums here.  I did not look THAT closely at the loco at the fleamarket, and honestly took the seller's word that it ran, I did not see it run.  I felt at the time that I would have paid the $20 clams for the foam layout bed and the track and transformer and if the trains ran, they would be a bonus.  A few months ago I was given a Roundhouse 2-6-0 with a TCS T1 decoder installed and began trading my N scale for HO scale.  Now I am buying into N scale again, so not sure where I am going ;P

I did notice that at least one wheelset on the tender did not roll smoothly in my fingers..  could be gunk, could be mechanical, I couldn't exactly dismantle it in front of the guy.  I was not aware that ALL the electrical pickup is from the tender only.  I will know more next week after I pick the set up.  My shoestring budget is HORRIBLY short right now, so don't worry too much about checking for parts, though I certainly appreciate the offer!

If you look in the product section here on the B-mann site for the frontiersman set, I believe those are the cars that I am getting.  I won't swear to it.  There are 4 or 5 that rolled well when I put them on the track and that's enough for me to get started.  I would eventually like to have some old wooden passenger cars, but that's later.

as for the F unit, it will make a good paperweight if nothing else   I can't really afford to buy anything right now, not even the set we are talking about so I'm not overly concerned about it.  I have a B-Mann Spectrum F7 A/B powered set that I paid $18 for used and was TOLD it was a good runner.  When I got it, it has cracked gears and will barely move.  It's a shame because they seem like very clean, well cared for units.  Here is a shot from one of those $5 keychain cameras:

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y89/Valkyn/mikes/Picture002.jpg


You are a bit mistaken, and I have been thinking of changing my tagline..  I am not in the district of Columbia, I am Mike from DieCastoms.  I once had a 'business' buying stock "hotwheels" and "matchbox" cars and modifying them to look like the cars at a local weekly car show.  My business was custom diecasts..  diecast customs... dieCASToms.... DieCastoms.......  I still use the name for my hobbies.

As for what equipment I am interested in..  again, I would like to have some passanger cars eventually..  "Overtons" I think they are called, but that is in the distant future unless I get another deal I cannot refuse (like having traded a Lifelike GP38 in N scale for a GP40 with DCC and a MOW set in HO scale, or trading a single, hand-made wooden flat car (my first ever) for the roundhouse 4-6-0 with decoder).

Thank you very much for your reply, it is most appreciated and welcoming!

I will post more about this set once I have it in my possession next week.

Once again,
Mike from Diecastoms

Moderator, feel free to combine this with the other thread if that is more appropriate.

I have recently purchased a foam layout with all the track and a transformer, and a Jupiter, several cars, a bobber caboose, and an extra SanteFe War Bonnet that the seller says doesn't run very well.

Out of 6 cars, one has no trucks and one has two missing wheelsets.  The others seem complete enough but I did not check small details.  The caboose looked like it was in good condition.

The foam layout consists of a folded 8.  There are no trestles, just the foam and the track.  I do not remember if the one 'bridge' on the layout had any support or if itwas just a piece of track over the gap.

The war bonnet loco was clearly missing both traction tires, which very likely is the reason it did not run well.  It did look clean otherwise but I had no way to test anything while at the flea market.

According to the seller, the Jupiter runs well and will pull the cars he had.  When I looked more closely at the Jupiter, it looks to me like the tender wheels are a little pitted and one axle barely rolls..

I would like to 'restore' the 4-4-0.  I would like to replace the wheelsets and clean the engine up and get it running smoothly again.
  If I need replacement trucks or wheelsets, where can I get them?
  Is it worth trying to add wipers to the trucks using the Kadee coupler spring method elsewhere on the forums?
  If I do need to take apart the loco, is there anything I should be careful of?  Springs rocketing off or anything like that

With all that said, do you think I wasted $20 bucks?

looking forward to your answers,
Mike, from DC.

How well do these items perform?  I can only assume that they have to have near-perfect track to run on and the slightest bit of grit on a wheel or the track would stop them dead.. 

Also, what are the chances of getting DCC into either of them?  (I would be buying them in HO scale)

Mike, from DC.

You know, I was just thinking about what I said in my previous post..  find the pen-size recorders and mount one in a loco and put the reed switch under the loco (instead of the magnet) and HAVE a crossing whistle that plays at each crossing!

Get reed switches that only work with the correct polarity of magnet and put two of them side by side (one reversed) and have two different sounds..  maybe a crossing whistle and a yard limit warning or something..  maybe mount the devices in a boxcar for more space..

If running DCC, a voltage regulator from the track power could do away with the need of batteries?

Just babbling ideas now

Mike, from DC.

Ray,

  Radio Shack sells an assortment of small amplified speakers as little as $10.  Most of them run off batteries, some off wall warts.  I am sure you could power it from accessories power etc.

  Don't forget other uses such as placing one before a crossing on your layout and triggering it with a magnet under your loco..  as the magnet passes the reed switch, you can play back the bells and wig-wags and standard crossing whistle.  It will happen in the same place every time whether you remember or not.  The draw back is that it will not move with the train.

  These would work especially well for ambient sounds like stations or workshops too, and is a hell of a lot cheaper than the commercial sound systems sold for these purposes.

  On the other hand, I would love to build a turntable some day and run it directly off a loco DCC decoder with sound and flashing lights and the whole 9 yards.  That's in my "some day" category.  I probably should have a layout first

Mike, from DC.

Why not use this technique to make your own sound modules?  Now it the time too!!

Go to your local pharmacy or Walmart or similar and look in the greeting card section..  find one of the cards that will allow you to record a personal message to be played back later.  If you can find one that is seasonal, you may get a discount.

  Take it home and strip away the card and keep the recording unit.

  The unit will likely have two buttons, one for record and the other for playback.  Record a sound from whatever source you wish and then REMOVE the record button.  You can also remove the playback button and replace it with a reed switch or any other trigger you wish so that when your table begins to turn, the sound will begin to play.

  Other options are photo frames, keychains, frige magnets, and even some ballpoint pens.  The method remains the same as MOST should only have 2 buttons.

Hope this sparks some interest..

Mike, from DC.

I am brand new to this foru, this being my first post.

It has come to my attention though, that in all of the Steam Vs. Diesel debate threads I have read, both here and abroad, few ever mention the turn-key operation of a Diesel.  Some of you who have experience, please help me out here, but..

Diesel:
  Turn the key(flip the switch, pull the lever etc.) and start the engine(s), wait for the compressed air system to charge if it wasn't already, possibly let the engine get hot enough to start the turbos..  drive off.....   10 minutes tops?

Steam:
  Start 2 hours before Dawn by filling the water and coal reservoirs, build a fire (Not with coal mind you, with wood..), get the fire hot enough to start adding coal...  feed the fire more and more coal for a couple hours to get the boiler hot, meanwhile go around with a rag and an oil can...  4 hours from when you started, you might be able to get under way...

Also, shutting down for the day is just as much of a process...

Diesel:
  shut the turbos down, let the engine run till the turbos are cool and shut the engine down, lock the cab and come back tomorrow.

Steam:
  Drop the fire and clean out the firebox, blow off extra steam, limp the rest of the way into an engine house, and get out your rag and oil can ...


Note that I have never been an engineer and am not saying that the lists above are fact, just examples.  I worked at a theme park that had narrow gauge live steam and after sitting cold for the week, crews would start on Friday night getting the three locos up to steam ready to depart on Saturday morning at 10 am.

As for my model layout..  I started by buying a DCC system because I knew if I didn't START with DCC I would never make the transition.  I WANTED Steam, because I worked so closely to them when I was younger.  I got a steamer in trade with a decoder already installed and it runs wonderfully.  Once I had it for a few minutes, I knew that I wanted a Diesel in my fleet too just to be able to use the many lighting effects of my DCC system, and, ironically, for a more involved start-up procedure, being able to bring up the different lightsand sounds one by one to fire up the loco....

anyways,

this has been my $.02

Sorry for dredging up a someone dead thread

Mike, at DC.