Another thing I forgot to mention, on removing the couplers to get the body off, one end was the Bachmann Coupler, the other end was a Kadee #5 secured with a larger (2.56?) brass screw, for a supposedly new loco it had some strange quirks within..

Ted (Teditor) Freeman

Many thanks, as I suspected, I am primarily N Scale so didn't have immediate knowledge, I just seem to fix other peoples problems cause I can't say no.

Can anyone advise if the pick up wires from the trucks to the PCB are solid core wire, I have just opened up a club members HO Scale SD-45 and all the wires are broken, the loco also had a bind in one truck which turned out to be one gear in the wrong place, this was supposedly a new loco purchased from a reputable dealer, solid core wires for this use seems like a fudge repair to me.

Ted (Teditor) Freeman
From The Land Down Under

Thanks very much, saved me a lot of unnecessary work, the pickups were the problem and I also isolated the terminals at the rear where the wires are soldered onto.

My cure was to cut the over-length pickup strips and solder them back together while pressed down.

Ted (Teditor) Freeman
From The Land Down Under.

I am looking at a Bachmann 2-10-0 for a fellow club member, I have determined that there is a short circuit in the locomotive itself, I have an NCE Powercab for my test station, placing the loco and tender on the track registers a short, just the tender disconnected is OK, just the loco on its own brings up the short, anything in particular to check.

Looks like it will be fun just getting inside it to check.

This was purchased second hand and is not a warranty solving issue, I am also Down Under in Australia, any help, suggestions will be appreciated before I start to pull it apart.

Ted (Teditor) Freeman
From the Land Doun Under

I'm in Australia and took the risk of getting one, even with some negative comments in advance.

Mine arrived and is superb, smooth, quiet and a powerful puller (just needs sound now). This is fortunate as being down under, returns are a difficult option.

To put things in context, I have had good and bad from all brands I have purchased, unfortunately it's not quite like taking a car back to the dealer.

Where I purchased mine, there was plenty of stock and an exceptional price to boot.

As we say down here "I'm a happy little Vegemite!"

Ted (Teditor) Freeman
From the land down under.

I have an HO scale 2 Truck Climax with a split gear in the main gear box I am attempting to fix for a friend, there is not a part available as far as I can work out, I believe there was a gear set available some time back, anyone have one they would like to part with, I am only in need of one of the gearbox gears (ten teeth, small straight cut gear)

I am in Australia.

Any help appreciated.

As far as I can make out from the parts diagram, it is a gear and shaft assembly H82802, comprised of a shaft, ten tooth gear one end and bevel gear the other it runs lengthwise in the main gearbox.

The parts breakdown is as such on the diagram; TRAIN
                                                                              MT044
                                                                            *OAG02
                                                                            *MT523
                                                                            *OAF05

The split gear is the straight cut ten tooth one.

Ted (Teditor) Freeman
From the Land Down Under.

I am in need of a gear for a Bachmann 2 Truck Climax, I believe there was a gear replacement kit put out by Bachmann, the gear I need is a ten tooth one in the main gearbox, I refer to it as a transfer gear.

NWSL do a bevel gear replacement for the trucks, but they say they have nothing for this particular gear.

If anyone has a surplus gear to spare and and wouldn't mind sending it to Australia, I am happy to pay the costs.

Any assistance appreciated.

Ted (Teditor) Freeman
From the Land Down Under.

I got caught out on this one too, you need to go further down to ALCO 2-6-0 DCC/Sound, it is listed in the standard range, just a bit tough to find.

Ted (Teditor) Freeman
From the Land Down Under

Took some doing, but there is a screw under the forward dome, you need to carefully lever the top of the dome off to gain access (look very closely, you will see where the seam is).

Then two screws under the cab, either side of the plug and the boiler assembly will lift off.

Note; the front handrails (smokebox to front pilot) need to be removed either pull from the smokebox sides or remove completely, I secured mine back into the pilot holes with CA.

In mine, the wires had been pinched and were shorted out, the boiler had started to melt from the heat of the short, no external visible damage, but I had to clean it up to get the boiler back on.

I hardwired mine after this and replaced the tender drawbar pin with a 2-56 screw to permanently connect the loco and tender to take stress off the wiring between loco and tender.

One other mod done, the tender pickups were rebent to place two pickup tabs on top of the axles and one under the axles, bending them around the axles to eliminate the chance of them snagging on uncoupling magnets, crossings, turnout frogs etc.

Hope this is of assistance.

Ted (Teditor) Freeman
From the Land Down Under.

Sorry Rich, can't help you, not known to me.

Regards the loco, got it dismantled, the wire that had been squashed and fused with another one during manufacture had gone on through to the loco, plenty of frazzled wires and even started melting the plastic boiler, I have now hard wired the decoder in and all is well.

Ted (Teditor) Freeman
From the Land Down Under.

I stand to be half corrected, the link is not the DCC version, but further investigation down the page found the one I'm after.

Where I faltered, was that HO was at the top then N then On3 etc, didn't think to go down further for MORE HO.

Just need to decipher the illustration to see how it comes apart.

Appreciate the help, it at least got me to what was needed.

Ted (Teditor) Freeman
From the Land Down Under

Unfortunately, Google isn't friendly enough, I have searched for information, and I had already been to the file you linked me to, the link given only shows Spectrum Locos (unless I missed something, I stand to be corrected), the 2-6-0 with sound isn't a Spectrum model.

Ted (Teditor) Freeman
From the Land Down Under

I have a 2-6-0 with sound, the plug on the loco is no good, I wish to hard wire the loco and tender together, can anyone advise how to remove the boiler from the loco, I have looked but cannot see how, don't wish to do any damage.

Working on the loco and repairing it won't be a problem once apart, any help appreciated.

Ted (Teditor) Freeman
From the Land Down Under.