You'll need to take the valve gear off the axle again, slip the rocker back in the eccentrics and then install the valve gear back onto the axle.

Wow they look good,
Cant wait to get my set!

Thanks for posting the video

David.

Nah,
He means Patterns, as in the tooling of the C-16.

David.

Well I think the model looks spectacular.  I love it.  I can easily see parts of the valve motion between the frames working...which one to buy..thats the hard bit.

One correction in the video - the Baldwin locomotive works did not build these in the early 1900s.  These model represent the 1920s modernised locomotives, originally built by the Baldwin works in late 1880-1881.  Only 20 years out!
Never mind.  I think most who know this prototype, know its heritage.
David.

Well done Bachmann!  The perfect choice, with loads of future potential as well.  We've talked about the versatility of the C-19 for several years, its time!  Excellent news.  Thanks heaps.

David.

Good video.
Those cylinders way above centreline really do look kookie.  The main rod and side rod practically line up when cranks are facing upward....
need to lower the whole super structure to make it right.  Oh well out with the saw, just like the old Aristo C-16s....

David.

Norman, think about just lettering up the Lake undecorated Bachmann 4-4-0...this is very close to Sonoma (except for the strap iron pilot, which I doubt Bachmann will make, since they didn't make it for Eureka either).  Sonoma by the way is Lake (brown), Style #1, not wine, and restored today in lake Style 1. 

The Jupiter, over at the Smithsonian is Wine.

David.

Pry off the spring detail at the end of the bolster, unscrew the useles screw out of the end of the bolster, drill a new hole right through to the plastic in the main central frame of the truck and insert a new longer screw, about 1/3" long, reaching beyond where the truck frame broke off.  Place the spring detail back on the end of the bolster and you're done - truck fixed.  Repaired many this way.

Fletch.

A Background about the Delton company,  can be read in this article:

http://archive.mylargescale.com/articles/articles/philjensen/PhilJensen01.asp

For a long time I've supported a C-19, various road name options, incl outside of Colorado..an inside frame 2-8-0, US based would have a load of applications.  Also support a smallish loco such as the 2-6-2.

Personally, I had my fill of geared locos, I dont care for anymore of any type, even if they are repaints.

Fletch.

Closer inspection does reveal the colour.  She's dark alright, and can be confused as black, but Eureka, along with so many of her sisters 1874-1877 was most definitely Lake (a real dark brown).  I'm most certainly looking forward to the new Lake 4-4-0, along with the Dark Green version!  They look specatcular in the catalogue.

Here are some closeups of the Eureka I took in 2001.  Even close up in photos you can mistake the colour for black.  But see her first hand, there is no black to be seen.

http://www.mylargescale.com/articles/masterclass/mc1/mc1-07/images/blgrnd4.jpg

http://www.mylargescale.com/articles/masterclass/mc1/mc1-07/images/bkgrnd13.jpg

This colour extended to all areas originally shown as Black on the Bachmann 'Eureka'.  Despite the errors, I love the model, and the linework is wonderful.  The new Lake 4-4-0s will be even better.

David.

Its a good drive, but not indestructable.  A good rule of thumb with this or any loco is to add weight but not so much that the wheels cant slip when pulling too much load.  If the wheels come to a standstill while pulling the heavy train, then you're asking for a burn out or gear stripping.

Short of ripping out the useless circuit board inside the boiler, I think most have simply recommended loading shot into the two air tanks on the boiler sides below the running boards...simple to do, and doesn't require any re-wiring.

David.

All we can do is request Bachmann run the model again.  It is strange to see a Bachmann model such as this so completely sold out.  Usually one can purchase older models for a very long time, heck I know a place where you can still buy the old 2-4-2 tender loco new.  I think it is important that smaller cheaper locos such as this remain on the market for the lower cost end of the hobby.  One can do a lot with these smaller non spectrum jobs.
I'd like to see the 2-4-2T loco re-run with a new cast metal chassis as well...could be a neat loco especially with a performance to match their appearance.  The 2-4-2Ts were always nicely detailed.  An adaption of this model could also be the 0-6-2T locos such as found on the Unitah.

David.

I wish Bachmann could re-release these lil moguls sooner rather than later!  They were a neat lil model, and pulled real well with added weight in the boiler.  The chassis was nicely engineered, cast metal frame, metal side rods and nice gearing all for under $100.  I have some more ideas I'd like to run with these models, but as you note, they're pretty hard to get now. 

Here are some of my 1870s Porter Conversion from the Mining mogul:  The first one is the Martha's Vinyard Porter of 1874.  The green #4 and Wine coloured #7 were Porters on the Colorado Central RR, built in 1873 and 1877 respectively..this is the RR that would build the Georgetown Loop Bridge and ultimately become the Colorado & Southern in 1899.  The models are all 1:20.3 scale.
Very smooth running models and good strength with weight in the boilers (I never need that circuit board built into the Indy Boiler).

We need more Indys!!!















Fletch

I do like the T boiler Shay, but frankly I think there are a few thousand other prototypes that could be pursued before I'll buy yet another  Shay...I'm all Shayed out! 

David.