I have to agree with mywhitedog, I used a Digitrax and had a bugger of a time getting it to run clean on my GP-40. I bought a TCS Z2 for my Bachmann 0-4-0 "Docksider" and it ran great with very little 'tweaking'. I have purchased another TCS Z2 to install in another older Bachmann 0-6-0 USRA.
If you have not installed a decoder in your GE Dash 8-40 I would check out the TCS decoders.

Very ambitous. Any pictures or Youtube videos?

Love see and hear them in action!

I have completed this conversion and am very pleased! I did not add the light at this time, only motor control. I used a TCS Z2 (little more than the $16 decoder I was going to use). This little decoder fit nicely and in an unusual spot! I have the 0-4-0 early version with the scary running gear. This version does not use a screw to hold the motor to the chassis so there is a spot under the motor to place this decoder. Trim the pickup figers that extend up to contact the motor posts and solder the red and black wires to these (make sure nothing touches the motor posts). Then solder the orange and black wires to the motor post (do this quicly so as not to melt the plastic motor housing). I had to cut off the screw boss in the bottom chassis (screw not used in this version), trim the pick-up fingers, and cut two little slits to route the wires forward (these slits are behind the rear wheels and the wires easily reach up and out of the way of all moving parts).
The nice thing is I still have the room above the motor to add the lighting wires and resistors when I get ready to do this project!
I am compiling a short Youtube video of this install. But I have to say that this little Docksider runs very well in DCC (with power-routed frogs).
I should give one caveat, I have 4 versions of this Docksider and this was the only one that ran smooth in DC. Not every locomotive is a candidate for conversion (see my post of a F9).

I completed my F9A and it seems OK on DCC. The BEMF seems a little hokey on this one as it makes the loco run jerky. Will try a little more tweaking of the CV's to see if it will smooth out. However, I think in the course of taking it apart I may have messed up the plastic bearing parts that hold the worm gears. Seems if I remove one of the motor shaft couplers (only one set of four drivers), the engine runs better (and softer sounding). Not sure what I need to fix or how to replace it as it is an obsolete part from Bachmann? Maybe I run it as half driven and leave it as a limited loco for service.
As whitedog stated, maybe it will just sit on a siding for a rust bucket weathering display.

Thanks Les for the heads up about the shell removal

This is one reason I thought of using the brass hand rail and using some sort of contact pads in the cab. Not sure how that will work out, but it will have to be very small. This is also the reason I wanted to try and use the brass handrails so I do not have to mill anything off of the weights! Running in DC, this pulls about 5 to 7 cars but more than that I get wheel spin and have to crank up the speed to keep it moving up any slight grade (thus my interest in DCC and using BEMF). Pulling about 3 cars is about ideal, thus it is a switcher!

Any suggestions on an LED? How small is small for LED's?

Thanks whitedog! Yes I milled exactly what you stated. I mounted the decoder in the same place!. I went the LED route and milled a little more on the top for the wires and resistors to fit. Also had to open up the light holders for the LED lights. I probably milled a little more than needed, but it all worked out well.
I used a NCE decoder that does not have BEMF. The DZ125 (the smaller of the two) does have BEMF. Do you use it and how well would you think it works? My GP40 needed quite a bit of "torque compensation" (low speed kicks to keep the motor running smooth).

Also, this model has brass pipes that run from the front to the cab in back. Could I use these to conduct electricity to the front LED? Adding in the appropriate resistor in the circuit somewhere! The shell is plastic.

Not sure how to load a picture?

Thought I would update.
I have disassembled this loco and found that the conversion should be fairly easy as the pickups are copper 'fingers' that reach up and contact the motor brushes. That is the only electrical! So my plan is to solder the red and black decoder wires onto the pickup fingers (shortening them a little) and heat shrink them to insulate them from touching the motor brushes. Then solder the grey and orange decoder wires to the motor.

That should be it! I did have to go and buy a smaller decoder (same amp ratings) as the space in the cab above the motor is the only place available to place the decoder (unless you want to mill the large weight for room). I am just waiting for the smaller decoder to arrive in the mail. The only other possible modification is some small milling for the pickup wires to get past the shell and weight (very small slots to prevent wire pinching).

Now this model does not have a light. There is a clear lense on the front that is a fake light. I was wondering if anyone has a suggestion on what size and style LED might fit this best? Again, I know that this will require adding some small holes in the shell to route the wires.

I was looking for some turntables and found that Bachmann has a 'new' n scale DCC ready turntable compatiable with EZ track. Anyone used this? Any pictures of this?

In general, are n scale turntables good or troublesome?

Mr. Bachmann, when will the website have an image of this product?

Thanks Tony. That is what I will do so I can utilize any and all lighting procedures. I will have to make a small slot to fit the extra resistor as i only made room for one
No big deal.

I thought I would give this a try, has anyone tried to convert a Bachmann 0-4-0 Docksider (no tender attached) to DCC?
I got one for about $10 and it seems to run OK in DC so I believe it should work in DCC. Not sure if there is room for a decoder and a search turns up zero info.
In the end I may try this and I will video and document for future information. I figure the $16 decoder is cheap and I do not mind a challenge .

Thanks Les and Joe,
I understand the resistor and non-polarity. What I was wondering, is it possible to have both lights ON and this is why the NCE instructions seem to state that a 1K must be put on "each function lead". I am going to plan on using one resistor on the blue lead, just wanted to make sure I am not missing something in how locomotives use the forward and reverse light (not a big prototypical knowledgable guy and am still learning).

By the way Les, nice name

I have successfully converted a GP40 from my "Thunder Valley" starter set. I used a NCE N12SR decoder. I did have to mill out the motor area to isolate the motor contacts and I had to mill a good bit for the decoder to fit into a pocket. I also had to mill a little bit for wire slots to prevent any wires being pinched. Overall, this is not something I would recommend for someone afraid to cut up the loco frame.

Here is my question, or issue, the DC lights for the forward and reverse on this loco is light bulbs that fit into little slots cut in each half of the frame. The light leads were bent back to press fit into this slot and contact each side of the frame. Very clever, but cheap! I milled this out and am going to put in LEDs. The NCE instructions state to use a 1K ohm 1/4 watt resistor in series for each function lead. Does this mean I have to install 2 resistors, one on the yellow lead and one on the white lead? Or can I install 1 resistor on the blue lead (common)? Putting 2 resistors in may mean I have to mill more space (and it is already a premium).

And just to inform those who say that this was not worth effort, I spent $16 for the decoder. My track is now DCC and I am not looking back. So I thought, what the heck! As it turns out, the loco does not run to bad on DCC. I did have to tune the low end speed and limit the top speed (man this bugger could fly at top speed). I apoligize for not doing a video or documenting. I do have an old Bachmann F9A that I may try to update to DCC. I will try to document that one. This one is a good runner, but loud with the brass gears!

I switched out a bunch of the little straight track for the longer piece and saw an improvement. I then went and started adding some more feeders by soldering drop wires to the outside of the rails in regular intervals and now have virtually no locomotive hesitation any where. Just need to "tweak" one of my crossovers.

I am not sure about the trees.
But I love your signature line