I am having significant electrical issues with my 50t HO Climax.
I installed a Micro-Tsunami with capacitor and the engine ran well for about 3 months. It now will move a few mm then stop and reset. Or not move at all. When parked the engine will idle all day long and sound normal. I can hold the engine in place with my finger and the engine will run, wheels turning sound on etc but the instant I attempt let it move forward or back on it's own the engine will stop and the decoder will reset over and over.
So....I have cleaned EVERYTHING; track, wheels, pickup pads, etc. No improvement.
I have replaced the capacitor with one of higher value, no improvement.
I am considering replacing the pickup pads and the truck wipers.
Does anyone know if I can get the pads or wipers for the climax (will the Shay parts work?) or do I have to manufacture them myself?
Any help or troubleshooting tips would be apreciated.
Thanks!

Jim,
Fantastic info! You have explained it very clearly. My hunch was just what you said. I don't plan on running my railroad with it I just want to build a roster of locomotives with Decoder Pro and program the decoders(but I do have that option in the future). It sounds like the PR3 will do that for me. And if I need more power I can use the Zephyr. I know it's tough for the maufactures to keep up with the fast pace of what we want and what we are trying to do and it's extremely nice to be able to query the knowledgebase you and the others provide. I really appreciate the help and tips from everyone and hopefully I can "pay it forward".
Cheers!
Birdog

Tim,
Yeah that's what I gather from their website as well. But I have been told from a DCC dealer(a reliable one too) that I definitely need a booster. So I am getting conflicting info.
I guess I can get the booster anyway but if I can save the $$ I'd like to.
Does anyone else have a tip?
Thanks, Birdog

Jim,
I did see that information somewhere. Yes I have considered that, however I really like the idea of being able to program with decoder pro. Seems like the easiest way to go and my finger won't get bloody punching buttons.
Do you have a thought on having to use a booster along with the PR3, Zephyr and decoder pro? I am unsure if I need to have one. I read in the PR3 info off the Digitrax website that a booster is not needed. Is that correct?

Hi All,
Here's what I want to do:
Program Micro-Tsunami's and QSI's with a Zephyr and Decoder Pro.

Which interface do you recommend? I was looking at the Digitrax PR3.
If I purchase that do I need a booster as well (PTB-100 or Powerpax)?

Thanks for the help
Birdog

I have 2 of the atlas turntables and I have the Life Like (LL) Power Loc track. I am slowly converting to code 70.
Anyway LL sells a piece of powerloc track that comes with regular rail joiners. I attached that piece on the approach track to the turntables then attached a short piece of normal code 100 track (on cork roadbed) to connect to the turntable.
So it went like this:
1. Standard powerloc track
2. Powerloc track with railjoiners
3. Standard code 100 on roadbed
4. Turntable

One final note. The standard code 100 on roadbed was not as high as the powerloc so I had to shim it to have the rails match. This is all a temporary set up anyway just till I get the code 70 layed. My 4 year old (read: me) just had to have something to get the trains running.
Don't know if this helps.
Birdog

Glad I could help.
Birdog

BigBob,
Couple of questions on your Climax install.
Did you put in the capacitor?
What size resistors did you use for the LED's?
Do you think I should drill some holes in the coal load as well?
I'm going to attempt an oval speaker the 1.00x.56 from soundtraxx I think it will fit.
Thanks for your time.
Birdog

Try this link:
http://www.all-model-railroading.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?p=61179

There are a few hidden screws, most notably the rear ashpan screw. The link has photos.
If the link does not work just google " Dissassembly of a Bachmann Shay"


Cheers, Birdog

Rock,
I had a similar issue with my Shay, stopped completely after a few runs this year but lights would work. I torn it down, connected it directly to the power pack and it would not run without help, a spin of the wormgearing. I have consulted with many and have come to the conclusion the motor is shot. However, I was asked if it had been stored in a basement or garage. I said yes and was told that the internal workings of the motor, specifically the armature, were dirty because it had been "exposed" to heat and humidity. I was instructed to try some plastic compatible contact cleaner. This is stuff used by audio geeks to clean their stereo receivers. I got mine at Radio Shack and gave it a try. Well it did improve my performance but 50% of the time the motor would not run without help. I e-mailed Bachmann to ask if they had replacements and received and very prompt reply (shocking I know) saying the replacement motor was $20 + $5 shipping. Needless to say it's on its way to be put in my Shay.
I also looked into re-motoring it with a NWSL motor. That is another option since you have a rare commodity in the Climax. I have one too and I am holding my breath with it after reading the boards. Anyway, NWSL was very helpful in tips on what I needed to do to get a replacement. It is a bit involved and would be more expensive, i.e. the Motor, the tools to measure the size you need, the tools to put the parts together, soldering, etc, etc. But you do have that option.
Remember don't give up!
Birdog

All,
Some may have seen this post on another board, sorry.
I have a 4 year old 3 truck that won't run. She was moving fine and then stopped. Light still on but no motor sound. I checked all possible connections and they all checked good. I have since disassembled the thing and all connections are still good. However, when applying power directly to the motor the motor will not turn without help, i.e. I have to spin the worm gear with my finger to get it to run. Once moving it runs at all speeds, when I reverse direction on the powerpack the motor will stop again. I was told my armature is dirty and it needs to be cleaned. So I cleaned it with contact cleaner. This has improved the performance a bit but it still needs help to move 40% of the time. So is it time for a new motor? Does anyone else have any suggestions? If a new motor is the answer does anyone have suggestions for that?
I thank you for your help.
Birdog

Thanks for the replies.
I have the dsd-101lc from soundtraxx. It is rather long and the only way I could get it to fit was to do some serious cutting and modifying. The coal load area will be just great for the speaker creating it's own baffle. The decoder is larger than the one in the picture.
Again thanks for the help.
Birdog

All,
I am having a heck of a time trying to figure out how to install the DSD-101LC in my DCC-ready Spectrum 2-8-0. The 8-pin plug in the tender is not numbered and the instruction sheet and diagram are vague so I am not sure how to plug the decoder in. Furthermore I just can't figure out how to fit the thing into the tender. It doesn't seem to fit with the installed circutry. I am hesitant to force it. Does anyone have any insight? I have searched all over the web and have found nothing. I asked at the local hobby shop and the guy said it is very hard to do. This is suprising considering this decoder is supposed to work. Help!
Birdog