Yes I did....replied on your other post.
Now you got me eyeballing my lone S scale 4-4-2 for usablility in On30...the spare G scale pacific drivers would be waaaaay too big for anything in On30, even an 0-2-4.

Quote from: GG1onFordsDTandI on March 17, 2013, 04:11:27 AM
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7XD5mAunzjk
Thats redical-lical-lical-luos (Grape Ape, Grape Ape)

Quote from: Burlington Route on March 15, 2013, 08:53:44 PM
That's cool...reminds me of the "troll killer" armored car I made eons ago.

Its not pointed at me is it? (a troll is anyone living under(south of) the Mackinaw bridge )

...unless your a troll, your ok!
BTW- that median line better be aimed over indiana and not illinois,,,it's bad enough being called an fib from the wisc folks......

The front loop has a pair of rmt engines on it...I've got some of those...alos looks like a rotisiery motor on the far left side of that 1st loop...I might be wrong. Very interesting!!!

That's cool...reminds me of the "troll killer" armored car I made eons ago...one of the guys in the modular group liked his trolls{remember those ugly things with the big hair} and had them run around on his trains...so I had to made mine...used a 1/35 scale WW1 german tank over some cheap lgb knock-off rolling chassis{leland or something} and viola....was also called the payroll car{but we didn't get paid}.
I really like his gillian grace, the lionel 0-2-4 and the cabforward engine...I could see my 2-6-6-2 done up like that!

Hmm, funny you should ask...I have this lil pile O stuff that wants to be something different in On30;
-HO scale rotary snow front piece{auger/housing/directional deflector}
-On30 long caboose or an On30 boxcar{long}...leaning towards the caboose.

...need to check my soon to be available ebay bucks...think a speaker could be had with that!{free is a wonderful thing and the wife can't complain}

Thanks, I'm hangin in there...was refurbishing my old ZW today{I run O scale too}...speaking of which, I have that very same pre-merger Q gondola that you have....still funny to see cascade green on a Q car.

It kind of got pushed off to the side...hit 2 snags,
1]..haven't picked out a speaker so I can't install the top of the body till then.
2]..lost my job of 26yrs last friday...need to address that issue 1st before any train stuff.

I like the army engine alot...and while I like some of the euro engines, I'm stiucking to a "no buffer" type...at least for now{maybe someday with the correct matching cars for that}. 

Procraft has a DCC 3.5amp Tsunami board, but I too want to see the new DCC board that's coming out just to see the physical size it uses up.

I'm using my dynamis for our currant carpet layout and she does well with multiple engines in On30....I've got the 2-6-6-2, the davenport, railbus and trailer and a running On30 diesel chassis{still making the new body}. I don't have the booster and mine is a regular version- not the Probox.

Quote from: GG1onFordsDTandI on February 21, 2013, 11:12:01 PM
Just for reference, AC volts, maximum amps drawn by any of my single engine post wars is 5amp peak at deadstart, sharply raised throttle to 12-14v, (pulling a heavy whistle tender), cast caboose, and 8 heavy automatic milk cars(13lbs total!) Its a Lionel 2046 Hudson. With slow starts, and at cruise speed, it pulls 1-2.5 amps. On newer stuff my dual can Kline GG1 pulls a 6amp peak, and 2-4amp under the same conditions (no tender=12lbs) making it the overall biggest juice-sucker I own.
BUT, does a universal motor use the same amps in ac or dc at the same voltage? I know it usally takes less dcv than ac volts to achieve X-speed but I never checked amprage draws in dc to compair.

My problem is that I only have a DC rated amp gauge and no AC amp gauge...othewise I'd check the AC currnet pulling of my few AC engines.

Quote from: artfull dodger on February 14, 2013, 03:17:53 PM
Any of my fellow On30's good at weathering locomotives?   I am building the 3rd truck kit from Backwoods Miniatures for my Climax and would like to have it and the locomotive weathered to match the picture on Backwood's website.  Our one guy that is fairly local is backed up for several months with kits to build, paint and weather.  Thanks in advance.  Mike

Do you own an airbrush? I could teach you how easily enough...I've weathered many 1/35 armor and 1/25 scale cars/trucks...I understand that some folks just don't want to mess with it, but the process could be very handy to you...

Nathan, one to two at a time would be all I'd ever do. We've got a carpet empire for now, but plans for an O/On30 layout are in the works...well, reworks.
Got a name or line on any of those AC motored DCC boards? I'd hate to the old lionel GP out of this though I've been told she'd be fine on DC only and has ran once in that way. I just haven't tried it all the time for lack of a high amp pack.

Jerry, "not all of them" my friend, and yeah, it did surprised me! I have an old lionel GP 9 with a single pulmore AC engine, and it runs on DC!...and AC as intended. I have 3 RMT engines that run on AC "or" DC- 1 beep and 2 beefs- each has twin can motors on chassis. My K-line 4-6-2 runs on AC or DC- has a can motor. My MTH 0-8-0 and Zephyr are proto2 and both run AC or DC/DCS{not DC only!} Seems the early lionel AC engines may not like DC power, but my engines aren't that old...talking issues with "pre-war stuff"...."post-war" is supposed to be ok with it. My 3 clockworks{marx/AF} just need a "hand"...lol.
I have 3 transformers to play with;
-lionel ZW-AC only{older than me and I'll be 48 tomorrow}
-bachmann EZ commander w/ channel 10 as anolog{DC}
-bachmann dynamis{DCC only}
I've honestly ran all the lionel, RMT and K-line engines off of the EZ for testing...in DC. Now, this was just for testing with the given stand alone engine, no cars or heavy loads.

Perhaps I missed it, but don't forget about the regenerative qualities that a diesel electic system has when going downhill under load. Those motor driven electric axels can slow the engine down and top off the batteries...dynamic brakes?
As has been said, a direct drive system would entail too many weak links for coupling, if one happens to burn out or wear out an electric motor/axle it can keep going with the rest of the driven axles to carry the load..a direct coupling system that lost it's primary drive coupling, say to a truck assy, or both, would be dead on the tracks.