They are a mix of kits, San Juan, AMS, and some 3d printed.  I have about 40 freight cars and 10 engines 5 of which are ET 4-6-0's

Check out my video of my #12.  Im using TCS wow and have all the sounds set for the ones recorded off the real #12.   This might help you set the decoder up if you want to sound like the real thing.  I can help you if you need it.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Odn9h7TFo08

Putting sound or changing sound modules in the 4-6-0 is so simple.  Ive installed TCS wow in all 4 of my ET 4-6-0's.  The last one I did in less than 15 mins.  Its all plug and play with the right adapter and the only soldering is the speaker.  I learned with #12 that the factory speaker is a 1W and I was putting 2w in 9,10, and 11.  I changed 12 and wow!

Tim

I have the Southern version.  Out of the box it wouldn't pull much. After looking at my other versions of this engine from a previous runs. I noticed a spring was added to the trailing truck on the new version. I had to tighten up some screws on the bottom plate and remove the spring from the trailing truck mount after that she started running.

Ive had it pulling 10 heavyweight passenger cars since then with out a problem.

My 611 locomotive just stopped today with no warning or indications of any issues.  I have a tsunami 2-2 installed in the tender. First I suspected the decoder died or shorted.  After disconnecting the tender the decoder performed flawlessly.  So I switched the locomotives out with another J class I have to make sure it wasn't the engine. The other engine worked fine with the tender.   

So i'm now trying to troubleshoot the faulty engine, the drivers don't seem to be bound up.  Is it the motor or the wiring harness going into the engine?  Anyone had any experience with these engines acting up?

The locomotive that won't run has the stiff wires running between the engine and tender. The other one has a different type of wiring that is much more flexible.  I don't know if the one type of wire is the issue over the other one.

I plan to repair the engine myself with parts from Bachmann.

when I first started i used 2 small screw drivers to put them on the 2-8-0's.  But after twisting them, and getting around the brakes.  Ive just opted on the 2-8-0's to drop the driver.  I also use this as a good opportunity to inspect the gears, and other components to keep them running smooth. 

Removing the wheels is actually the fastest and easiest way to replace the tires on the 2-8-0

I vote for a heavy pacific, do something similar to the 2-10-2's where you offer details unique to the railroad.  I wanna see a SRR PS4

My experience double and triple heading 2-8-0's has been a learning curve.  None of my 7 2-8-0's run the same.  Some naturally faster than others.  So my solution was....to simply make sure the same decoder type is in each engine.  Then set the CV's all the same on every engine.  I use the digitrax DZ125 decoder and they run great together.   

I wonder why there is not the usual black unlettered version in the announcement?

Im looking for a specific bachmann Southern 2-8-0.  This one came in a spectrum set 6-7 years ago. Ive only seen 1 show up on eBay in as many years.  If anyone has one of these that is collecting dust and would like to part with it. I sure would like to get it.

The engine is a black 2-8-0 lettered for Southern's freight look.  The road number is 2506.  The lettering is in yellow gold. 

Mr. Bachmann if you have any of these laying around in the parts dept that have been returned. Id be interested in that as well.

Thanks

I totally understand where you are coming from.  The 2-8-0 is one of the best running N scale engines and will meet and exceed your expectations. If the 2-8-0 is not to your liking the bachmann 4-6-0 is a good one too. A few weeks ago I was able to pull a 52 car train with 1 single 2-8-0 with out any modification other than the standard DCC installation although i quickly added 2 more for a neat all 2-8-0 tripleheader.  I have one tip on decoders and the 2-8-0's.  If you want to make DCC fun and you get more than one of these engines. Install the same decoder in all the engines and it will make doubleheading go easy.

Fred

Ive got a fleet of 6 of the 2-8-0's. 5 of which were undec's.  All of them came out of the box DCC ready (no decoder installed.)  Since then i have converted the entire fleet to DCC.  I would recommend, if your just getting started and are looking at going DCC go ahead and get one of the newer issue 2-8-0's  even if they do not make a road that your model.   Converting the 2-8-0's that i have is time consuming, very tedious, and requires a steady hand with a soldering iron. Also Its easier to get a DCC engine and run it on a DC power rather than buy a DC engine and try to run it on a DCC pack and fry the motor.   I have plenty of pics on my facebook of my 2-8-0's including those with front couplers installed.

Im also on Nscale.net as southern837

sounds good keep me posted on what you find out.

I imagine you could test it with an ohms meter.  I have never done this but dont see why it wouldnt work.  You could do a factory reset on the decoder and see if it changes anything.  Sometimes we change things programing that we dont catch. Did you solder the wires to the board or the decoder? or did you splice them together?

Just a thought when you were programming it did the light flash any. When i program my engines the light will flash when the decoder is talking to the zephyr.   

If all this dont show any signs of working then i would say you have a bad decoder and would send it back and get another one.