A Mogul is a 2-6-0 loco. Not a 4-4-0 or a 4-6-0.

Bill,
I run whatever I like, be it steam, live steam or diesels. I too have MANY more locos than I need, upward of 20. I own half a dozen 4-6-0s, a couple of Porters, two Indy moguls, two Davenports, a 44 tonner, two Barry Olsen conversions (a 4-6-0 and a 2-8-0) a few Aristo diesels and a couple of USA engines, both diesel and steam.
My railroad, my rules! 

Glad you made it! 

PNP Big Hauler 4-6-0 sounds good to me!

Bill,
Didn't you make a move to a new state a short time ago? Is this yet another move? If so, you sure move around alot for "an old guy" ! 

Quote from: Greg Elmassian on May 01, 2020, 05:25:56 PM
I think no matter what we decide, for at least a while it will be a PNP Big Hauler, since having the socket will be seen as the primary improvement and advantage.

Greg

I think Greg's idea makes the most sense without blowing one's OWN horn! 

Quote from: Loco Bill Canelos on January 21, 2021, 06:53:18 PM
HO Farmer,
Since the sound works fine with the old chassis the problem is most likely the chuff sensor or a problem with the red switch.  Expose the chuff sensor, be sure the two copper arms are in contact with the drum.  If they are and you have a voltmeter, set it to the continuity  mark which is the Omega symbol on the dial.  If the copper arms are not touching one of the silver bars on the sensor drum, you will get a zero reading.  If the copper arms are touching one of the silver bars on the drum, then the reading should be one.  This would indicate all is good with the chuff sensor.  If still no sound the only other thing I can think of is the red switch is not making good contact in the down(on position)

Loco Bill

You have the meter reading backwards, sort of.
If both chuff reeds are not touching a bar on the drum your ohm meter will read infinity (open circuit) not zero. If they are both touching a bar then your meter should read close to zero ohms (your meter leads will be in the resistance measurement).

Quote from: nymark on January 10, 2021, 02:58:20 PM
I got my cylinder assembly for my 3 Truck Shay in the mail. Before replacing the old one, I looked for my manual with the engine diagram but could not find it. I skipped looking for it online as it is hard to see anyway. Thought I would just dig in as it didn't look complicated. I was surprised to find two blue electric leads soldered to some tabs at the top of the assembly. So I heated them up, removed them and soldered the wires to the new assembly. Of, course, I always think I'm going to remember which wire goes to which tab but try as I did, it was only a guess when it was time to solder. My first question is does it make any difference. My next question is what do those wires do. From the wiring schematic, I think they might be chuff sound. Glad to be back in the hobby but I have to relearn a lot of the stuff I figured out a few years ago.

You are correct in assuming they are the trigger for a synchronized chuff. It doesn't matter which one goes where. 

Quote from: Greg Elmassian on December 04, 2020, 10:28:59 PM
Use the original 2 connectors at the back of the loco for the headlight and motor.

Unfortunately you still might want to use the chuff switch, needing another couple of wires.

Greg

Your way is the hard way. It requires getting to the wire side of those connectors. No easy task. No need for the chuff switches and the drum with the Revo. It's voltage controlled built in chuff is quite adequate. On the V5 the wires to the track pickups are EASILY accessible with just the bottom cover off. The rear light will be powered by the Revo in the tender. There are always different ways of accomplishing the task at hand. Why do it the hard way?

Trainworld.com $75

A V5 is one of the easiest to put battery/RC into. First off, the Revolution system is ideal for this application. The batteries, and receiver board (with sound and ESC) goes in the tender. The sound card in there gets removed the speaker stays. The harness for on/off and charging gets put in the tender and the switch and charging jack can be put on the bottom or rear of the tender
The track power is isolated by taking off the bottom cover of the loco and unplug the wires from the brass pickup strips. These two wires get routed to the rear and connected to a small plug at the rear of the loco.
A mating plug and wires get routed from the board in the tender forward so it can connect to the plug just added at the loco rear. The rear tender light can be made operational by adding an LED with a resistor on one leg and routing to the Revo board.
You will no longer hook up the original sound and light connectors at the rear of the loco.

There are a few other items to think out such as how you want to connect the batteries to the Revo board. You can mount the linking button in the hatch that was for the 9 volt battery which is no longer required.

I have four of mine converted like this and am about to do two others for club members.

This is what you need at a better price.
https://www.allelectronics.com/item/lp-23/14v-40ma-t-1-3mm-lamp/1.html

The 2 wire cable you are referring to is only for the sound system. These early model 4-6-0 locos did not have a working light on the tender. Only the head light was operational. The bulb in the head light is probably burned out. You need to replace it.

Quote from: Homo Habilis on November 12, 2020, 09:47:06 AM
I've had one for about seven years with no troubles.  The only "special" thing I did was follow the Bachmann Railtruck Tips > http://girr.org/girr/tips/tips8/bachmann_railtruck_tips.html < on George Schreyer's wonderful site regarding the Gearbox Fix.

Same here.