Easy success. I was able to slide a #11 blade under the headlight base and slice off the bottom of the mounting lugs. (This leaves enough lug remaining so that the headlight can be remounted with a touch of CA on each lug.) The headlight then can be pried loose from the base. I then put the headlight face down on the bench and with a little pressure with the #11 blade in the seam on each side of the back the two halves pop apart. Be careful not to lose the lens as it is loose in it's slots. I expect no issues mounting the led and remounting the headlight. However, I will wire it directly to the decoder feeds using a small disconnect and not use the sliders on the inside of the boiler as I am also eliminating the PC board. Thanks for the initial hint. 

As I feared. Not able to pop it open. So I will have a go at it as you describe. By looking at the parts available for the 2-6-0 one can see that there are many versions out there. Too bad each does not have a parts diagram and list and certain instructions as for what would be common needs. Thanks.

Looking for non-destructive way of opening the headlight case to replace the bulb on the 2-6-0, or a link to a video demo that is current and clear. Mine also seems to be mounted via melted lugs to the brass support frame in a way that makes it non-openable? Goal is a warm-white LED as part of my DCC conversion. Thanks.

Any information about when On30 arch bar trucks 29901 will be back in stock?

Large scale $$$$ is getting out of hand, at least for me. Mostly out of the box too, with little assembly needed. Not much of a hobby for those like me who like to build rather than just operate.  With so many different passenger car types and configurations, I wonder if a basic frame and roof and ends with component sides (slabs,  various windows, baggage doors, etc.) plus interior parts like seats and etc. would would sell? Also, truck frames to match specific types and railroads. Prototype length would be a problem, unless even the roofs and floors were different. I bash a lot of Big Hauler cars - especially kits - to get close to what I want, such as Durango & Silverton cars. The G market is probably not large enough for this. Dick

Am looking for a "bumble bee" Durango and Silverton 4-6-0 and have found locos with different numbers. I read one post that it was reissued and upgraded with better gears, metal side rods, etc.  True? What is the difference between 177 and 179? I want the most recent.

Can someone confirm that 31mm wheels sets part 92421 are the blackened ones? Was the number changed from the original silver and black plastic center ones? The pictures most sellers post for 92421 do not look like blackened wheel sets to me. Thanks.

I assume you have problems, are doing a bash, installing a sound system without the chuff clickers making noise or possibly just want much pain. I think the answer may be buried in this document. http://www.wiringfordcc.com/bgshay_old.htm   

I did not check any Bachmann specs prior to purchase (some years ago) but did rely on the review in Finescale Railroader of May 2002 which said it would negotiate LGB 1500 (2.5 radius) curves without modifying the drawbar. I did reverse the coal spill pile too (that was needed even on 3.5R curves per FR).  I just recently got around to taking it off the shelf and installing a decoder and putting it to work. Loco isn't really run in yet. Space in several places is tight and the 2.5R curves are not eased. If there is not a known issue then I'll just investigate further. Maybe LGB 1500 is slightly broader than Aristo? Thanks to all.

My 2-8-0 has seemingly a binding problem as it wants to stall out on Aristo 5'D curves when running a medium slow speed. Need to punch up the power to get it going. Engine is new, I think I have the tender drawbar at the right length, and lubed per specs. I know this is probably the minimum radius track to use, but reviews said it was OK. So will this maybe loosen up with time or do I have to tweak something?     

Thanks. That was my GUESS, since these wires seem to be omitted from the Bachmann wiring diagrams.

What are the two extra blue wires in the bunker of the 82498 for?

We need a 1:20.3 small Baldwin logging mallet, such as number 126, the 2-4-4-2 "Skookum". No doubt about it.  A natural also for the various versions.